Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Two pipe system >> no traps or vacum pump
Tom_24
Member Posts: 5
Hello Steam gurus.
I just took over a 13 story 1930s building (I am a property manager) that has two pipe system, with no traps and no vacuum pump. The main problem that I have is that most of my air vents are spitting water. I think they should close as soon as the vent reaches certain temperature. What is worst is that one of the lines (last one on the system) is being unsatisfied, in other words the upper apartments will not get steam because the cycle is over. I am about the change all the air vents. Any other suggestions?
I just took over a 13 story 1930s building (I am a property manager) that has two pipe system, with no traps and no vacuum pump. The main problem that I have is that most of my air vents are spitting water. I think they should close as soon as the vent reaches certain temperature. What is worst is that one of the lines (last one on the system) is being unsatisfied, in other words the upper apartments will not get steam because the cycle is over. I am about the change all the air vents. Any other suggestions?
0
Comments
-
vents
Certainly a good place to start, but not knowing exactly what you have for system makes it tough to speculate. There has to be some device to get the condensate back into the boiler. Have a pro check out your system, it will save you alot of headaches.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Tell us more
Are there vents on the radiators? Are there shutoffs on the returns as well as the supplies to the radiators? Is there any strange-looking hardware in the piping near the boiler?
Generally speaking, 2-pipe steam systems don't use radiator vents. The exception is the "2-pipe air-vent system" which uses shutoff valves on the radiator return connections, as well as vents on each radiator. But by the 1930s, this type of system had been superseded by Vapor.
If there's just an elbow on the radiator return connection, it's probably an Orifice Vapor system. Or there may be a check valve or water seal in the elbow, or in the bushing that the elbow screws into.
Post some pics if you can!
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
any ideas on where I can get information
on the 2 pipe air vent system. we just got an account that fits your description. There are 2 pipes with valves on each radiator and an air vent as well. as far as I can tell there are no traps in the system at all. I have to repipe the boiler as the near boiler piping is a mess and we have at least 3 radiators that are cracked and need to be replaced. too many hands have been playing with this system and I would like to make sure that we do it right. I was going to research this system as its new to me but if you could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
Thanks
John
0 -
It's actually pretty simple
You install the boiler the same as on any other system. All your "dimensions" (lowest steam-carrying pipe above the waterline) are "A", not "B", since there's nothing to stop the leftover steam pressure.
Vent your steam mains quickly. Oversizing the main vents a bit will help since you can keep the pressure very low.
Do not install vents on any return lines. One of the problems with this type of system is steam getting into the returns. This is to be avoided since it can cause banging.
Often, the returns on these systems were piped so they join together above the boiler waterline. With this configuration, it's way too easy for steam to rush thru the return lines from one radiator to the next. Use a Vaporstat instead of a Pressuretrol to keep the pressure below 1 PSI- this will minimize the problem.
Obviously, if all the radiator returns drop into a wet return before joining together, the above problem doesn't exist. If they did originally but the new boiler's waterline is too low to submerge these lines, build a False Water Line to submerge them again, or set the boiler up on a pedestal or blocks.
When replacing radiators, you can use either steam-only radiators or ones that will work for hot-water or steam. Connect them exactly as the originals- with two shutoffs and an air vent.
This system is covered in Dan's book "The Lost Art of Steam Heating", available on the Books and More page of this site.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
thank you very much
0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.5K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 423 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 96 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.5K Gas Heating
- 101 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.5K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 928 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 384 Solar
- 15.1K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 48 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements