How to install TTV in baseboard?

Steve_24

What is the best way to install a TRV in fin tube baseboard?

I have successfully used a TRV with a remote, integrated dial and sensor, where the valve body fit inside a standard Slantfin baseboard enclosure.

Now I need to install TRVs in baseboard runs where the supply and return piping are at the same end (return is on top of the fin tube). The valve type that I used before will not fit in the enclosure. Also, I'd rather not have a remote dial and capillary.

Should I cut a hole in the front of the baseboard for a dial and sensor, as shown in the attached photo, install a dial as shown but with a remote sensor under the fin tube, or should I locate the valve and dial at the end of the baseboard either inside or outside the enclosure?

Big Ed

Outside

You want to install the dial sticking out from the enclosure .

Woody

trv

if using a direct mounted sensor as shown in the photo, then put the valve on the return. if it is a long run the use a remote bulb style (macon #entz-b36000), with bulb in the return air under the fin tube. the website www.maconcontrols.com swill detail typical applications. t.p tunstall

Mark J Strawcutter

I'm curious

why you recommend valve on the return.

Mark

Mark J Strawcutter

Don't

cut a hole as shown in the attached photo. Use a decent hole saw instead of hacking one with tinsnips like in the photo :-)

Mark

Mark Eatherton1

it

keeps the valve body cooler and doesn't cause the valve to react prematurely.

ME

Mark J Strawcutter

noise

I thought putting a TRV on the return could result in noise as it closed. This is probably only true with certain manufacturer's valves?

Mark

Mike T., Swampeast MO

With a straight valve you just have to keep the flow in the proper direction. Will work connected either to supply or return. The angle valves made for radiators are another matter as they can only be installed one way.

Woody

in all cases

the valve has to be installed with correct flow. there will be no noise as long as this is done and the pressure differential is less than 2.9 psi (as recommended by most of the manufacturers). another reason to put on the return side is on long runs, usually in large rooms you want the fin- tube to warm the space before the thermostat valve shuts off the flow. if it was on the supply side of a long run, you would be satisifying the small area near that direct mounted t'stat and nothing at the other end of the room! t.p. tunstall

DWood

who do you

want to have control?
if the baseboard is in a hallway etc where once the "comfort" level has been decided, a remote sensing actuator may be the best choice with the actual control knob hidden behind the bb cover or access door.
If you want the occupant to have instantaous direct control, the photo you have shown will work, just make sure the knob extends far enough out of the cover to sense "area" temperature. My experiences have shown that the added cost of remote sensor will do a better job of controlling temperatures, the difference in cost between a remote sensing and a direct sensing operator is minimum, and far less than the labor cost involved in cutting into a fin tube cover. Again, who do you want to have control?
You have indicated you don't want a dual capillary control, which I suspect is driven by material cost. Once again, it is a question of who do you want to have control. In hallways or enterance ways, these are not necessary, but in office buildings or school rooms where you want to give direct access of temperature control to the occupants, the dual capillary controls will do a fine job of giving the occupants the temperature they desire.
On all TRV's, the two questions that should be addressed from a temperature control standpoint are "Are we sensing temperature in the area that we want to control?" and "Who do we want to have access to the temperature control features of the valve?" Most manufacturer's will give you a minimum of four selections.
good luck
dwood

Steve_24

Thanks

Thank you for your input. The illustration on the Macon Controls website is very helpful

My original concern was whether or not a sensor that protrudes through the front of the baseboard would do a good job of accurately sensing room temperature. I also wanted to have a tidy looking installation. I didn't want to use a combination sensor and dial with a
capillary connection to the valve acuator because the one
time I used used such an arrangement I couldn't find a tidy way of running the capillary on/inside the wall. Also, the valve actuator will not fit within the baseboard enclosure when both the fin tube and return are inside the baseboard.

I borrowed and edited the photo of a TRV baseboard from a website that offers a bypass TRV for fin tube baseboard.
The bypass TRV will not fit inside the baseboard enclosure if the return is in the enclosure. I had planned to buy a hole punch if not too expensive, or have a sheet metal shop punch a hole in the baseboard cover. In my experience, a hole punch does the neatest job.

I am using TRVs since I have widely varying heat loads from room to room because of the house's solar exposure, a mix of vertically open spaces and small rooms,
and periodic use of a woodstove that heats only part of the house. I chose not to zone the system to take account of all these variables because it appeared that this would require a zone for each room (a little extreme for a 8 room, 1800 square foot house?).
I have a reset controller (Erie 2400) that I have not yet
operated in reset mode, but once I have installed more TRVs I expect that I will switch to reset operation, which I hope will yield almost constant circulation and more comfortable heat.

It is fine to give the room occupant control over the temperature in the room. For the most part I would expect that the temperature would be set on the TRV and then left alone, so that the main function of the TRVs would be to even out the temperature throughout the house.