Honeywell Y8610 Spark Igntion Kits (Steamhead)

don_10

Hello Steamhead,go for it.. have done a couple with no
problem.If you have a bunch of burner tube made want to
mount the pilot assembley in the middle for gentler main
flame.

Steamhead

Anyone have any experience with these?

I have a customer with a gas-fired American-Standard steamer, which developed scorch marks on the jacket. I was afraid it had somehow dry-fired until I clocked the meter- WAY overfired- turns out the regulator in the gas valve got stuck. Trouble is, it's an older "A-B" setup which you can't get parts for anymore.

Since the boiler is OK otherwise, I'm thinking of using a complete retrofit kit in which all the parts are designed/approved to work with each other. This should at least partially sidestep the issue of "installing something that wasn't approved" which was discussed at length several months ago.

Of course, if that were my house I'd just replace the boiler- but since it isn't leaking, I doubt this customer would go for that.

What experience have you Wallies had with these kits?

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Tony_8

excellent

success with them here, indoors AND out (rooftops)

I wouldn't hesitate.

Tony

Unknown

You can do that

It actually meets code better, if the old valve wasn't a redundant one.

If it were our boiler, I'd send you the list of approved parts, including the new wiring diagram, and lighting and shutdown instruction label.

NOooo problem.

Noel

Boilerpro_3

I would stick with standing pilot

simply less problems, and better overall boiler efficiency since a pilot helps drive off moisture in the summer (I heard about your wonderful humid summer there in Baltimore) keeping eat exchanger much cleaner. I'me sure a rusty heat exchanger will use alot more fuel than the 1 to 2 percent increase in AFUE that you would get by eliminating the pilot.

Boilerpro

Unknown

Steamhead - what is the number

of the existing gas valve and is the regulator built into the valve or is it a seperate regulator. When you say "A-B" setup I assume you are talking about "A" and "B" valve the "B" being for pilot gas???

If that is the case then plug the "B" valve outlet after removing it. If it is a thermocouple pilot then a electric igntion retrofit will slip right in where the thermocouple has been removed from the pilot.

If you want to leave it as a 24 volt standing pilot system then just put in a dual seated (redundant) gas valve to replace it.

Give me some more info such as type of pilot etc and I will give you an exact replacement for it.

D lux_2

I used one on a furnace' hot air '

It went OK execpt the P light high volt wire had a 90* turn on the Plight side I didnt like the amount of room to keep it off the burners and excanger also had to play with the highth of the spark so it would light ok

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Steamhead

A-B

That's correct- "A-B" may be a local Baltimore term, but it is as you say- the pilot has its own separate valve and feed line off the gas supply line, and its gas supply does not shut off on pilot flame failure. Some of those "B" valves had handles in the shape of the letter "B", which probably led to the term "A-B".

The regulator is part of the electric gas valve, not a separate unit as on some even older systems. The pilot does have a thermocouple that goes to the gas valve (not the older separate pilotstat), locking it out on flame failure.

The gas valve is marked "American-Standard" on the label. I didn't see a model number or any indication as to who made it for them. It's 1/2-inch and the boiler's input rating is 120,000 BTUH.

The owner is away from the house for days at a time, so the consequences of a pilot going out could be severe. This area has low-pressure gas mains, and they're not regulated as well as they should be in cold weather. That's what made me favor the spark-ignition setup.

Thanks all for your help.

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Unknown

Steamhead

I have used the Y8610U on numerous occasions and find it very easy to install especially the pre labeled wiring harness. As someone else posted make sure the pilot hardware is positioned so that the spark is at the point of the best gas /air mix on the pilot. The hardware makes that easy as it is adjustable.

However if you wanted to that gas valve can be replaced by any 24 volt standing pilot valve just make sure it is dual seated (redundant). The big difference is price obviously as if I am not mistaken that kit is about $400 + labor.

Good luck!!!

Dan Foley

Am-Std

Hi Frank,

Be sure to check the burner encosure box thoroughly. American Standards were notorious for splitting along the length of the burner box where the cast iron sections sit. This would allow the flue gases to go between the sections and the jacket causing scorch marks on the jacket.

If that checks out, go for it. I', a big fan of the Y8610 retro kit. -DF

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tim smith_2

better late than never

Make sure you know if the old one was step opening or slow opening. If it was and you put a standard type dual valve you will get quite a bit of flash out or pilot blowing out and or short cycling from EI pilot. Just a little input.

Unknown

Old American Standard valves

were made long before step opening and standard opening controls they are a diaphragm valves with an external bleed. The standard valve that comes with the Y8610U will do fine.

Glenn Harrison_2

I've had good luck with them too..

however, sometimes that spark electrode adapter can be a pain to get positioned just right so that it catches the flow of gas and doesn't arc everywhere except the ground rod. I personally try to put in a one rod spark igniton pilot assembly that matches or closely matches the exisiting pilot burner. This way I now I'll have a much better spark, spark positioning, and the arc will stay where it belongs. Honeywell makes a number of one rod pilot assemblies.