Control for steam boiler with indirect

tate

Thoughts about a control for steam boiler with indirect.
It might be overkill, but, here are my thoughts.
I have customer with a JOT 150 steam boiler that I will be adding an indirect hot water maker to.
I would like it to remain a cold start boiler, but I am looking for an aquastat /circulator control that will bring the boiler up to 160-170, control the circulator, bringing it on once the boiler temp is above 140-150. Any suggestions?

Unknown

Why, yes I do.

http://trainingroom.slantfin.com/articles/nm0304-1.html

Noel

Leo

JOT boiler

The JOT cold start boiler is one of the worst to clean why would you not want it to maintain some heat? After they cork up to a certain point the over fire draft is terrible boardering on a positive number.

Leo

Robert O'Connor_6

Amen to that Leo

I could kill the folks around here that cold start Peerless JOT's . Plugs em up i n good shape.


Regards,

Robert

joe_31

we have one of these set ups on a new boiler and will repipe it as you have shown. we used a broze circ and brass flow check and everything else is copper and was set for purging and backwash of pipes. i was concerned because of getting fresh water into this indirect thats why we used brass and bronze was this a wasted expense?

tate

cold start

I agree on the cold start issue. It will be running daily for hot water production from now on, but I do not see any reason to maintain temp.

Unknown

Some recommend bronze pumps

There sure is a lot of air exposed to the boiler water.

I've done about 30 of these, some pretty large (six indirect coils on one boiler...), and I've always used iron pumps. The boiler is iron, after all. So are those 90 year old pipes and radiators.

Brass and bronze components are better. I just don't know that they are absolutely required.

Noel

Firedragon_4

I was one of the initial advocates of cold start,

no longer, FACT!

First of all, it beats up the equipment, (and with a JOT ya hafta be nutso), leads to terrible recovery and is just an idea that doesn't work unless the boiler holds about a quart of water!

I have maintained 120F in my boiler (4 gallons) for over 5 years now, what an amazing difference. The boiler is in much better shape, more efficient due to it and the hot water is outstanding.

I pulled my 3rd indirect in favor of an external tankless due to problems outside of my control, but do still believe in the overall indirect concept. I maintain 150F in the tankless, have a dedicated priority control system and it works great.

The heater is here:
http://tfi-everhot.com/EASeries.html

The wiring is here:
http://tfi-everhot.com/pdfs/TFLOW_GlassLinedBoosters.pdf

It's the alternative wiring one! Try one of your usual jobs wired this way and add a simple aquastat to maintain that 120F in the boiler, you and your customer will love it and you can go a long time between boiler cleanings, FACT!

Mad Dog

I refer to your book all the time, George

always a big help. Mad Dog

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Firedragon_4

Thank you Sir Dog!

jim sokolovic

Still my soot saw...

gently weeps!

tate

convinced

ok, so I will maintain temp on the JOT, Thnks