Thermafloor price per bag

DaveGateway

I am going to pour my own Thermafloor in about 200 square feet of space. The supplier is quoting a price of 20 dollars a bag. He says I will need 20 bags to cover that much space and that each bag weighs about 80 pounds. Anyways that turns out to be 2 dollars a square foot. This seems high as I have heard of installs running less than 2 dollars a square foot including the PEX tubing. Am I being overcharged?

Troy_3

Thermafloor

The yield at 1-1/2" depth mixed at a 1.6 sand mix should be about 20 sq. ft. per bag. That is $1/ sq. ft. We charge $3/ sq. ft. installed. $20/bag is cheap. However without the proper mixing and pumping equipment it is difficult to mix at this sand mix rate. That is why he is telling you to use 20 bags and less sand. I am assuming.

Mark Eatherton1

2$/sq ft

sounds rediculously low to me. That less than my direct cost.

ME

DaveGateway

Well then I guess I am not being overcharged. I am gratified to know this. Yes, this is for a 1 1/2 inch floor with 1/2 inch PEX. I appreciate your reply. I will be told how to mix it when I take delivery. I will find out then if I need to add sand. Thanks.

DaveGateway

I was just making sure about the price. I am sorry to hear you pay more. I had no idea at all about this.

t.speed

As a small radiant gypcrete applicator we limit our manual pours to less than 60 sq. ft. @1.5". I hope you plan to have several assistants or this undertaking may be more than you bargained for. By the time you have opened your last bag, the first batch may be ready for tile.

VERY important: watch your water content per batch; you will be mixing a lot of batches. If possible ask your supplier if he can provide help (an experienced eye) on your first bag or two.


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Troy_3

Thermafloor

I'll second that! This could turn into a huge mess. It is not easy to get that much product mixed and placed before it starts to set unless you have the right equipment. You may want to section the floor to make for more managable sizes. Good luck.

DaveGateway

Thanks for the head up t.speed. I realized I would have to be careful because 20 bags is 1600 pounds. Thats a lot of weight. I know so because I used to lug around hundred pounds bags of silica sand when mixing it into asphalt sealer. I will probably do a section at a time in two lifts.

Tom Simensen

Gyp-Span

jman,

Cost sounds reasonable

If you can find a Hacker Industries applicator in your area, you could possibly get their new pre-sanded Gyp-Span product.

That would eliminate the mixing ratio problem, but as others have stated it's not the easiest thing to do with out the proper equipment.

Have lots of help available and work fast or you could have a big mess on your hands. Get some finishing tips from who you get the product from. It is not the same as Portland based concrete.

DaveGateway

I will do that, section it off into manageable chunks. I am probably going to use a a small portable cement mixer, a wheelbarrow, and do it in two lifts. Thanks I could use the luck.

DaveGateway

I will work fast. I am taking on a challenge yes I know. I have seen what happens if you don't spread hot asphalt quick enough it turns in to a pile that you will need pick ax to bust up. I have no intention of letting this happen here. Challenges are a delight to me, kinds like this that is. If I think I will be overwhelmed then I will have the supplier do it for me with his equipment. Thanks Tom.

hr

Are you sure

you need a gyp product for this small area?

A pea gravel redi mix would be another option. Zip it up with some fiber and other additives.

Gyp products really need to run through the mix and pump equipment, for proper results.

Around here a yard of concrete mixed and delivered, is around $90.00.

hot rod

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jp_2

pour

I found it easier to do one pour. you should consider small enough areas that you can screed them. I used 1x2's as dams. my biggest mistake was pour too large of an area at a time. with the wheeel barrow ,leveling the pour is tricky, it will not self level but is too runny to use a bull float, so leveling dam to dam seems the best way to go without the right equipment. 6 months and the only cracks came from over temp, I let the water run to 175F by accident. boom! sounded like a shotgun.

DaveGateway

I will keep that in mind. I like the fact that Thermafloor is a lightweight product compared to concrete. At less than 12 pounds a square foot Thermafloor is easier on my subfloor vs. more than 15 pounds per square for concrete. Plus, as a radiant mass it has different characteristics. I will definitely keep your suggestion in mind because 90 dollars a yard is very attractive.

DaveGateway

That is a good idea. I wonder if using dams as an integral part of the floor would section off the room into manageable chunks. Use 1 by 2's. Kinda like the wood expansion joint in sidewalks. Wow, 175 degree water is really really hot. I will be using a regular old hot water heater to heat the floor, shouldn't get more than 120 degrees.

jp_2

"If" i do this again, I'll section room off like a checker board, do every other square, screed flat,let dry, remove 1x2's, pour remaining floor and screed to ajoining slabs. wouldn't leave the wood in place. the runaway water heater was an on-demand unit. constant recirculation works nice, I run water temps at approx 90F for 20F outside temps. next time I would also space tubs at 6-9 inches, better response times.

Jim Burke comfort zone

thermafloor

i am wondering how you plan to mixing this product.
i have done many pours from large to small very difficult to do with a wheelbarrow.make sure your product sand & water ratio is correct . also in order to do 2 lifts you must add set modifier to your mix which will make product set very fast.I do not recommend this type of application for your project.also make sure you have your tubing filled with water and enough staples in tubing otherwise chance tubing will float to top. Good luck without a pump

DaveGateway

Thank you for your advice. I hope my hot water heater setting gets down to 90 degrees. I will keep tubes 6 inches from the wall and space them around 6 to 8 inches apart. You guys have been a valuable source of information.

DaveGateway

I am glad you are concerned about my proposed methods. As for mixing I will either rent or buy a cement mixer. There is a place that rents mixers sized 1 cubic yard but that sounds kinda scary. I will be able to stay at a my sisters place during this tumultous pouring period so I am hoping to do with out a modifier to make it set fast unless you are saying that it is necessary to use it in order to do two lifts. My Thermafloor guide says it is optional. I am in no hurry. I have been working on my place for a number of years now and would much rather do a low mass hydronic system than embed electric mats beneath saltillo. Hydronic is more cost effective albeit more complicated. As you probably can tell I am a bit nuts but in a good way. Thanks for the good lucking I will use it.