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Cast iron baseboard help needed

Geno_15
Geno_15 Member Posts: 158
Good luck in advance. Sorry but when people add on and then want to add heat/cool you have to be creative. Without seeing it I would have to say you can't do it without it looking horrible. What your trying to do would probably be more efficient but is impossible. Pipe it,bill them,move on. You might want to put on the bill the circumstances that may cause a lack of eff?

Comments

  • bryan_14
    bryan_14 Member Posts: 8
    ANYONE BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT?

    I am trying to figure out a way to do a series loop with cast iron baseboard for an existing on slab addition. Is there any way or something i don't know of that would allow my to get my return pipe back (similar to the return cradle on fin tube baseboard)? I am planning on using the extension pieces to cover the supply and return around the perimeter of the room where i don't have active length, but i can't figure how to get back around the baseboard without it looking like heck and/or having to remove drywall to get the return pipe into the studs behind the cast iron. I was wondering whether anyone made cast iron baseboard that had individual water ways instead of 4 connections that are all open to each other? THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
  • Mark J Strawcutter
    Mark J Strawcutter Member Posts: 625
    When I asked

    this same question a while back, Burnham said that their baseray CI baseboard had a channel in the back that would accept 1/2 but not 3/4 copper.

    Mark
  • Phil_6
    Phil_6 Member Posts: 210
    burnham..

    ..baseboard has room behind the bottom leg for a return pipe of 1/2 copper, maybe even 3/4, I forget. I've done it a couple of times this year
  • bryan_14
    bryan_14 Member Posts: 8


    thank you for your help, learning something new every day.
  • Joe_13
    Joe_13 Member Posts: 201
    Maybe Weil Mclain

    Take a look at their snug CI rads. They have ribed vents in the back that leave a channel at the top of the back of the rad. Problem is copper tubing would be visible from the top. Have you looked at any steel panel rads? I though some had 2 seperate passageways that could be piped together or used a return loop. Also checkout this pex radiant tube molding. You'd probably need to run more to get the same BTU's but it's probably cheaper and easier to install.

    http://www.hydronicalternatives.com/
This discussion has been closed.