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Boiler feed water pressure > 100 psi !!
Patchogue Phil_19
Member Posts: 4
Long story short, M.I.L. boiler (hydronic baseboard) found spewing water and steam from pressure relief valve. Gauge "pinned" past high mark of 75 psi. Temp at 220*.
Whole system is 30 months old.
I measured house water pressure at hose bibb at over 100PSI (screw-on pressure gauge for lawn irrigation).
Shouldn't a fairly new pressure regulator for the boiler be able to hold back that pressure?
What kind of damage can that water pressure do to the boiler system? (besides water leaks on the hydronic baseboard)
Expansion tank damage?
Do pressure relief valves have manufacturers warranties? On phone, installation company said systems have 12 month warranty. (M.I.L. is looking for paperwork from installation).
Just waiting for the repairman from the comp that did the installation.....
Whole system is 30 months old.
I measured house water pressure at hose bibb at over 100PSI (screw-on pressure gauge for lawn irrigation).
Shouldn't a fairly new pressure regulator for the boiler be able to hold back that pressure?
What kind of damage can that water pressure do to the boiler system? (besides water leaks on the hydronic baseboard)
Expansion tank damage?
Do pressure relief valves have manufacturers warranties? On phone, installation company said systems have 12 month warranty. (M.I.L. is looking for paperwork from installation).
Just waiting for the repairman from the comp that did the installation.....
0
Comments
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Was that in Rocky Point ?
I was there replacing a Megastor for the 2nd time last year . The homeowner wanted to know why they seem to last only one year . I took a reading at the drain on the tank - 120 psi cold .
I'm not positive but I believe the maximum pressure on the inlet of a Taco is either 80 or 100 psi . Any higher than the manufacturers limit and higher water pressure could pass though the feeder . A good idea is to install a whole house pressure reducer . Take care Phil .0 -
Close by
Coram, about 12 miles away?
Is it the water company's responsibility to keep the residential water pressure from being so high?
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Do you
Have a pressure reducing station (valve) for the whole house along with an expansion tank at the water heater? If not you need one. Hope you do not have polly B piping in your home. Best Wishes J.Lockard0 -
I'm not sure about Suffolk
But in Levittown I had a leak at my water meter , which is in my front lawn . They told me that if the leak is on their side of the meter , they fix it no charge . On my side it would be $500 or so . While they were fixing it , I asked whose responsibility it is with the water pressure going in . He told me same rules - my side of the meter , we have to increase or decrease to our liking .
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High pressure
Up here on the North coast on the lake plain it is not unusual for cold water incoming pressures at 75 psi.Mostly due to close proximity to the pumping stations on lake Ontario.A common practice here is to install a pressure regulator after the water meter.Otherwise we are plagued with 150# relief valves popping off on water heaters during the night.In some cases an exspansion tank had to be installed on the cold water line prior to the water heater.100 psi incoming water sounds too high to be safe,check with your local water authority soon!0 -
High pressure
Do you have an indirect on this system? I had a bum coil in one and the symptom was the boiler over-pressurized. We found it by shutting off the iso-valves to the coils.
Jeff0 -
End Result
New pressure regulator valve, new T&P relief, new expansion tank, new auto vent, and new T & P gauge (old one pressure needle stuck at MAX), plus $125 service chg. $565 total.
Luckily nothing else appears to be damaged. Then again not much left except boiler itself and the 2 zone valves and one circulator.
What surprised me is that the serviceman never checked incoming water pressure. Diagnosis was that sediment damaged the feed valve!
Guess I'll be adding a whole house pressure regulator and a sediment filter in a few days.
Anyone recommend a pressure regulator?
0 -
Watts 25AUB reducing valve
I think range in size from 3/4 and up
the 3/4 will be fine for a house0 -
Hindsight: Was there a better design?
Always 20/20 hindsight is - but maybe a low water cutoff, and shutting off the feed could have prevented this problem.
0 -
they're all junk
I use the watts also, just keep in mind that there is a chance you will need an expansion tank on the domestic cold supply, often they act like a chek valve. duel checks are required here before the meter with a reg. also before, no matter where the meter is. Often time when they want 75 lbs at the top of the hill, the people at the bottom have well over 150 PSI. good for the water heater biz!!!
Murph'0 -
LWC is never a bad idea...
but a reducing valve on that high of press. is a great idea also... it will save a ton in repair bills in the future that the high press. will cause and it really shouldn't cost much for a 3/4 one.0 -
We deal with high preasure
Alot.
We use a Watts U5B which has a by-pass built in and allows for thermal expansion. It eliminates a expansion tank if the town dos'nt have a check valve built into the meter.
And our experience has been that the boiler feed will Not handle that high of preasure. High preasure will also eat right thru coils and glass lined tank due top velocity. Check out the Grand Canyon
Scott
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Invest in some of these
Be amazed what that presure will do when you're not watching Leave em overnight at a WH tank drain or wash machine bib.
hot rod
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