Help!! threads leaking

mark_20

I just put together my first boiler system and when I pressure tested it (15 psi air) I suprizingly found no leaks in my solder joints but most of my 1 1/4" threaded joints show soap bubbles. i used Block (the blue stuff) on every joint and tightened them with two 10" pipe wrenches until I could not turn any more. Any suggestions on how to do this better. Is it true the minerals in the water will seal the small leaks? Any way to fix them without taking the system back apart? Thanks for any advice in advance. I will post pictures of this system soon so I can get your opions on what I could have done differently.

Ray Landry

you used 10" wrenchs to tighten 1 1/4 black pipe?! An 18" wrench is usually the norm for pipe that size. Sounds like you've got a re-pipe on your hands... sometimes you can get lucky with pro-poxy (soft like putty, hardens to steel) but that's only used in a pinch... do it right and re pipe it. Sometimes joint do rust themselves shut.... I've never seeen this, it's only hearsay.

Mike Kuntz

I agree. I usually don't touch anything less then a 14" wrench. Get a bigger wrench and tighten them down i think that you will be suprised how lose they are. Good Luck

Alan Muller

leaking threads

It is a pain, but you will have to undo the threaded fittings and make them up again.

if it's any comfort, more and more people seem to have trouble with threaded fittings, which used to be more-or-less Plumbing 101. I think the quality of fittings, and especially the conformity of male and female threads to standards, is not what it was.

And people will talk forever about dopes and tapes without agreeing.

My ideas: (1) wire brush both make and female threads, and blow out with compressed air if available. (Fittings and nipples can be cleaned and even doped in the shop and put into baggies.)
(2) try a dry fit. If you can't get several turns in by hand, chase with tap/die or try another fitting. (3) Use a couple of layers (not a big mess) of teflon on the male and some soft dope on the female. (This should give you a joint that can tolerate some adjustment and thermal swinging without leaking) (4) Use a bigger wrench, (5) avoid using the straight-threaded couplings that come with "T&C" pipe.

am

lchmb

check your pipe threader

check to make sure the thread's are not ripped..also with blue block. (only use it personally on 2" or bigger) you can dope both the male and female thread's...try taping them and using blue magic pipe dope...might have better luck..as to bigger being better..;) once told by an older tech that you can over tighten joint's causing leak's...best of luck..

D lux_2

somebody posted

a product loctight makes looks like dental floss . I thought it look good for leaking joints

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masterplumb_5

pipe dope

as per most instructions, only use dope on male ends

Bob_9

Mark,
Make sure the threads are good and they're clean. Then apply 3 rounds of teflon tape. Then get some pipe dope with teflon and apply a LITTLE of that to the threads. Tighten it all up and move on.
Bob

jeff_25

leak

you can try packing the joint with lead wool and a punch or dull chisle. i been told a salty dog will work salt and water i would not use it

John Abbott

We use......

1/2'' teflon up to 3/4'' pipe and 3/4'' teflon up to 2''.Use 3 to 6 wraps depending on the tightness of the joint.The clearances unfortunately vary greatly today.Then, and this is the secret lubricate the tape with Palmolive dishwashing liquid immediately before asembling.I have used this method for 15 plus years thousands of joints and have never seen its equal.The soap prevents the tape from tearing and allows low torque leak free joints.We have done many thousands of joints using this method and I can count all the leaks on my fingers.I know it sounds absurd but trust me on this one.

John

Kal Row

i am not a strong person...

so i use teflon paste on both sides and at least 4 turns of teff-tape, hand tighten and then snug up with a 1/2 turn of a wrench - works for me - for unions, i uses 3ft pipes on wrenches (4ft of leverage) otherwise they always leak

i use blue-block for nat gas only, where there is only 4 inches of pressure, and it has the machanical strength to act a a seal by itself, for regular domestic water lines, you have to design for 125psi, it's a whole other ballgame

Wayco Wayne_2

The Dental floss

stuff refered to earlier is Loc-tite 55 I think. I've had great success with it. I first got it because it came with a Buderus Boiler. I used it and loved it. WW

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[Deleted User]

Threading

Check your threads. If you are threading, (not bought) you should be able to do 3-3 1/2 turn by hand. If not your threads are not set right. Less and they will leak for sure, more and it'll be too loose. I did sprinkler fitting and we test to 200 PSI. that's what we did.

Mike

mph

Teflon tape

I use both tape and dope (male threads only) and seldom (never say "never") have leaks. It's important to keep the tape off the first one or two threads so it doesn't peel off inside the fitting. Pumps don't like loose teflon tape floating around in the system.

Jeff

bob young

making up pipework

if you use the proper size wrenches your problems will maybe go away. 10 " wrench for 1 1/4 " pipe will never work. try a 18 " and a 14 " or if you are lite in the pants two 18 " s

Mark Eatherton1

It makes for...

some VERY ugly joints, and some of them leaked too. We tried it for a while and have since abandoned it.

Back to the tape and paste.

ME