Minimum clearance air scoops

Unknown

keeping a new system air free when using the Burnham V8 line . We haven't used too many airscoops on the boilers yet , but on a few we tried the cheapo Taco model . We haven't made it a standard item mainly because we simply do not have the room to mount them properly on most jobs . What I've been trying is shown in the picture - 1 1/4 inch tee with the bull side going to the system , and the run facing up to a long nipple and air can , hopefully to trap the air and eliminate it before it goes to the system . Even with this setup we have intermittent air problems .

What we are looking for is an air eliminator that needs a minimum of space to work properly . I downloaded the Taco Vortec brochure , but it didn't go into detail about spacing . Thanks in advance .

jalcoplumb_2

no space

requirement for the vortek or spirovent.

Used both and love them. I sometimes use the old style air scoop but it does need a lot of up front to work properly.

I wish I could get them in sweat. I think it is an option but my supply house does not stock it. I can't get any good isoflanges either. Need to open my own supply house. Oops off on a tangent.



Hope this helps
joe

Bill Nye

RON,

What I do is , I use a 3/4" black tee and a 3/4" street 90° and put it on the 3/4 " nipple for the relief valve. I put a 3/4 X 1/8 black bushing in the top of the tee and a hyvent, I put the relief valve in the street ell. I put the street ell in the branch of the tee facing toward the front of the boiler. Before the accountants starting saving money AM STD then Burnham used to ship these parts with the boiler.

I use the B&G EAS , ehanced air seperator, right on top of my riser from the boiler. You can feed the bottom or the end just like a universal flow check. I feed my water in the back side of it and sometimes hang my extrol there.

If I can access my old computer or hook up my scanner to the new one I will try to post a picture.

hr

Another option

I have used some of these vertical Spirovents. I'm not sure what size they come in.

Watts also has an either or purger available. A bit less expensive than the Spiros.

hot rod

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Bill Nye

B&G EAS

With my limited computer skills........ hope this works

Ken_8

Location, location, loca.....

We believe that the boiler block is the best place to put the air vent.
It is the largest (and therefore the slowest moving water) point of the entire system - making the "capture" of unwanted air far more likely that within the more turbulent elements of the near boiler piping.

It is also the place where the water is hottest - and therefore the the point at which the maximum amount of gasses (entraned air) will be released. And as Martha says, "That's a good thing."

AND, the cost of the boiler is always included - so a purger at any cost is an unecessary expense.

AND, most well designed boilers have internal baffles to direct air AWAY from the supply port(s) (like W/M) - and unless used as the best of all venting locations - would actually reduce the air elimination properties of an external air vent!

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Boilerpro_3

Only problem is

> We believe that the boiler block is the best

> place to put the air vent. It is the largest

> (and therefore the slowest moving water) point of

> the entire system - making the "capture" of

> unwanted air far more likely that within the more

> turbulent elements of the near boiler

> piping.

>

> It is also the place where the water

> is hottest - and therefore the the point at which

> the maximum amount of gasses (entraned air) will

> be released. And as Martha says, "That's a good

> thing."

>

> AND, the cost of the boiler is always

> included - so a purger at any cost is an

> unecessary expense.

>

> AND, most well designed

> boilers have internal baffles to direct air AWAY

> from the supply port(s) (like W/M) - and unless

> used as the best of all venting locations - would

> actually reduce the air elimination properties of

> an external air vent!

>

> _A

> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

> 68&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

> Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

> "Find A Contractor"_/A_



ASME is not allowing the use of the

Boilerpro_3

Ken, et el., Only problem is

that the baffle usually directs the air to the same tapping as is used for the relief valve. According to Glenn Stanton at Burnham, ASME no longer permits the installation of the additional fitting to install both the relief valve and air vent in one tapping. I believe the Weil CG has seperate tapping for the relief and air scoop, not sure about others. To me its not so much the cost of an air separator, as it the labor installing it and the space it needs. Either you can use an inexpensive orifice or air scoop type and use extra piping, or use a more expensive finger or vortex type and use less piping.

Boilerpro

jim f

scoops

hey ron.... i have good luck with the taco air scoops...what we do off the top of the boiler is as follows.....1 1/4 black tee with a 1 1/4 x 3/4 bushing for boiler drain..then a 1 1/4 x 8 nipple, 1 1/4 ips ball valve, another 1 1/4 by 8 nipple to air scoop, a 1 1/4 street 90 pointing up, 1 1/4 x 6 or 8 up to a 1 1/4 90 back the other way to your manifold with circs ball valves and flow checks over the air scoop... sorry no pic...x-tank and feed on bottom of scoop

Unknown

Thanks Joe

We're looking into the Taco Vortec , at least it'll match all the other Taco parts on the boiler . Hey , remember you helped me out with specs for a Kriebel system ? Thanks again for that info , it was much needed .

Unknown

Bill

I used to pipe the 3/4 tapping just like you said . I had a talk with Glenn from Burnham and he told me that the tapping should be used for the relief valve only , so I stopped piping it that way .

We also tried , for a short time , using a fully threaded bushing into the supply tapping and running a short nipple into the boiler - lower than the 3/4 tapping . In essence , making our own boiler air eliminator with the 3/4 tapping . Glenn also frowned on that idea ( I didn't like it too much either ) .

The B and G EAS sounds promising . I actually installed one with Dan H on a Thermo Dynamics boiler at the college in Brentwood . Thanks Bill .

Unknown

The 1st Spirovent

looks like it would do the trick . Is that style a specialty item , or is it readily available ? Thanks HotRod .

Unknown

Ken and Boilerpro

I agree Ken , that the boiler itself is the best place to eliminate the air - it worked fine for us when we used the Peerless and Thermo Dynamics line with their built in air elimination , as well as the Weil Gold line .

The problem with the V8s is that the 1 1/2 inch and 3/4 tappings are at the same height , and very close . Using the 3/4 tapping for air elimination is dicey .

Boilerpro - we use Peerless for gas hot water and they have a 3/4 tapping on top for both air elimiation and the relief valve . By the way , why does ASME permit just the relief valve in the 3/4 tapping on the top ? And I also agree that its not so much the cost of the air elimiator , it's the space - and it's a premium around here . Thanks Guys .

Unknown

Ahh , like a big S

Actually , that sounds like a good idea . Do you have any problems keeping everything straight while tightening it all up ? Thanks Jim .

Boilerpro_3

I really don't know

I asked Glen what happened to the "Eliminaire" on their boilers, and he said ASME changed thier requirements and they had to eliminate it. Of course a second tapping could have been added for the relief valve and the original been left for the air tapping. Oh well, the accountants probably won.

Boilerpro

Boilerpro_3

The EAS is really useful

and they also have a Jr. version, a bit smaller and more economical. I think it can be had in sweat too, but maybe not with a bottom tapping. I once had a tight sqeeze with two staged boiler and piped one into the side tapping and the other into the bottom.

Boilerpro

Dave Stroman

Sparco makes one where you come in the bottom and out the side. Takes no more room than a tee. Use them all the time.

ScottMP

Ron

We use the standard air scoop most of the time with no problems. When space is an issuie we pipe out from the riser and then over or back, thats igves us 18" to the air scoop. This allows time for the air to rise to the top of the piping and get collected by the scoop.

Having seen plenty of you "closet" installs I would say that a Spirovent is what you want.

Scott

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jalcoplumb_2

Glad that the Specs...

were useful. I hope that job went well.

Joe