two radiator questions

kevin coppinger_4

to have two cast iron radiators sand blasted? 36"x24" Is this the best way to clean the old paint off of radiators? What would be the best paint to recoat them with? Oil? latex? Rustoleum? Theses are on a steam sysem...TY. kpc


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Mike T., Swampeast MO

Don't know about the cost but believe that monument works (meaning grave headstone producers) have the most powerful sandblasting equipment and since time is money...can get it done a lot faster.

I've had very good luck stripping radiators with a mid-line "homeowner" type pressure washer and zero-degree nozzle. Zero-degree nozzles are the type with a rapidly rotating single, extremely narrow and very strong stream of water.

Whatever you do to finish DON'T PRIME BARE CAST IRON WITH LATEX!!!!!

I prime with flat, alkyd, white, brush-on paint tinted to the approximate final color. Flat alkyd paint can be kind of hard to find, but it's out there. Have tried spraying but since I paint the entire radiator I only wound up with a dripping mess...

Photo is of a brush I modified that proved invaluable for painting a rad. 1" wide, HOLLOW ferrule, soft synthetic bristles: bent the ferrule with long-nose vice-grips.

Thad English

blasting

I've heard about someone who took steam radiators to the local autobody shop, had them sand-blasted and then powder coated. I think that might be little extreme in terms of cost but the results would have to be outstanding: Like new 100 year old rads.

Brian Macdonald_4

Sandblasting

My local sandblasting guy charges $70/hr. I have had two done - one took half an hour and the other 45 minutes. Had to call a number of guys before I found someone who would do them at all but with this guy it is no hassle. I painted them myself with rustoleum high temp spray paint. Takes lots of coats but is holding up beautifilly although it has only been three years since they were done. Good Luck.

Brian

tina

bought 5 old radiators, now what?

Yesterday I purchased 5 cast iron radiators from a salvage yard for $350.00 with 2 week option on returning them (I need to pick them up by 2/11). They are very orante, stamped "American Radiator Company"; 2ea are 15 fin, 1 is 7 fin, 1 is 5 fin (all 22"ht), and 1 is 4 fin at approx 36" ht.

I own a 1300sq' 1903 farmhouse in Napa California (30degrees to 105degrees) with full attic (to be converted someday) and crawlspace beneath main floor. No current heat source. I don't want forced air or AC.

The big question is AM I OUT OF MY MIND to start with old radiators and work 'backwards' into a heating system? I want the house to look and feel old, so these radiators are perfect. From what I've read, they are steam radiators. Can I retrofit them to water/hydronic system use?

I am a 'do-it-yourselfer' with most work except plumbing and structural framing. The thought of maintaining a steam boiler is a bit intimidating, I must admit, but not out of the question.

Thank you for any input you have for me! -tina

tina

P.S: I didn't know how to post this question as a new topic, so here it is under another radiator question. Sorry!

Mike T., Swampeast MO

If you plan on using water (not steam) and the rads are NOT connected across the top--just like they are at the bottom--be glad you have an option to return... To be used for water each and every section would have to be drilled and tapped for an air vent at the top. It's honestly not practical. (I once lugged TONS of the things from the upper floors of an old hotel for 50 miles to find out this "difference". So don't feel bad if this is the case. At least I've learned a LOT since then.)

No. You're not "crazy" for wanting to do this. Beyond the period appeal, cast iron radiators make very comfortable and very efficient heating systems. Unless you're REALLY lucky though (or unless the rads have rods going from side to side meaning they can be sized) you'll probably have a hard time finding old ones perfectly sized for a new system.

Fortunately you can use thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) on them and they will compensate for a surprising degree of mis-sizing. TRVs are a very good idea anyway as they provide proportional control at relatively low cost.

tina

rods and TRVs

Thanks Mike,

I feel better and worse... as I don't know what a "rod" is; I didn't know the radiators had to be "sized" to my boiler system (I do know they should be sized to the room, but that's not going to happen!); but I can figure out the TRVs and use them.

If I am fickle enough to keep these, should I run water thru them to check for leaks before I pick them up? Ok, ok, should I have my head examined?

jim lockard

testing Rads

Should be able to pressure check with air build a little jig with a few pipe fittings and a valve. hook up a compressor and a gauge pump up to 30psi and watch the gauge for 1/2 hour or so. I would not pump them up to high 2x working pressure should be ok.

Dave Stroman

I have radiators sand blasted all the time. I use a company where I drop them of in the morning and pick them up at night. About $75 each. Very important not to let them get rained on after they are blasted. Paint them right away. Radiators can sometimes cost that much each! Sounds like a good deal. Air test them before you do anything else.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

\"rads\" and rods

"rad" is common abbreviation for "radiator".

The "rods" I was talking about hold some rads together. You'll see them running across near the top and bottom. Usually one at the bottom and one or two at the top. If you see them, the rads can be disassembled and sized. If you don't disassembly is exceptionally difficult and not too likely to succeed.

Radiators are sized to the individual spaces they serve--sorry if I confused you by saying "sized to the system".

Again, if you are planning on a water system make CERTAIN that they are connected across the top. If the individual sections are not joined together at the top (BIG connection just like across the bottom) the rads were designed for steam only.

Certainly wouldn't hurt to test them for leaks before you move. They need to be PRESSURE tested with air or water (water is generally safer if messier). Be forewarned that this isn't as easy as it sounds--particularly if the COMPLETE valve/angle union assemblies aren't on the rads. (In my experience this isn't common as they've just undone the unions/valves and removed the rads not bothering the remove the other half from the pipes and reattach to the rad.)

In the best case you'll need a plug & nipple for each tapping size as well as a transition for each of these sizes to the hose connection and two medium size pipe wrenches. (Pressure from a garden hose is usually many times higher than in a system.)

In the more common case you'll either need matching valves/angle unions plus the above or a couple big wrenches to ATTEMPT to remove the union tailpieces from the tapping bushings and/or a HUGE wrench to remove the tapping bushings.

kdonhudson

sanblastingrads

If you're in a place where you aren't finding someone to do this, consider calling the biggest cemetary monument company in your phone book. They sandblast. They may not jump at your job, but can probobly refer you.