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Dave Yates
Mark Hunt
Member Posts: 4,908
We install mixing devices on every indirect we install, and run the tank temp to 140 or better. I would do this on water heaters as well, but I can't remember the last time we installed one.
All of this DIRECTLY because of you.
You are reaching people.
Mark H
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All of this DIRECTLY because of you.
You are reaching people.
Mark H
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=238&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
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Comments
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A wise move
plan on some maintenance. Hard water and elevated temperatures will eventually "stick" those mix valves. Some of mine need yearly cleaning, for homeowners that hate water softners.
I've always used the Sparco, now Honeywell Sparco, and I keep rebuild kits on the truck. They went to a teflon coated body a few years back. Helps a lot but those tight tolerances still seize up after time.
Add a ball valve on the discharge side to facilitate rebuilds without draining back the entire building.
I recently started buying the union connection style. Now I can just switch the entire valve and de-lime and rebuild back at the shop.
hot rod
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You got that right
Thanks HR, I have seen what water is capable of.
A company I once worked for installed hydro-air systems in a large rental property, something like 120 units. They did use plate HX's and mixing valves.
What they did not take into consideration was the fact that the water had 29 gpg hardness. It only took a year before the problems started.
Mark H
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Chust doing my job!
Thanks Mark & HR, I'm taking your request to heart. We'll see if FHB wants a full blown article & we're working on it. If not - their competition does(G).
The truth will out, as some famous playwright once said.
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Trouble???
I see a potential contamination issue HERE! http://www.woodfordmfg.com/Woodford/Yard_Hyd_PDF/S3CATALOG.pdf
Am I alone??
This is what switching to the IPC does for (to) you.
ME0 -
and
A warranty replacement call! Did you remember to pull down the diverter and "flush" the hydrant? "Of course I did! You obviously installed either a defective product or you don't know how to properly install yard hydrants." At least the age-old "I DID remove the hose" almost goes away. We've had to replace more than a few antifreeze wall hydrants for free & they were pitched the correct direction. Amazing how a looming plumbing bill can turn otherwise honest consumers into bold-faced liars!
I see it works via a venturi & requires owner/user intervention to make it work. Twould be a better design if the handle tripped the diverter during the stroke between full open and closed. Even at that, I still can't help but believe homeowners, garage mechanics, car dealer car washers & farmers (etc.....) will short-change the flushing period. Perhaps a simple flushing mechanism that self-closes either by spring tension or hydraulically using the water flow itself could be built in and triggered by the stem's closing.
Aside from that, I like the idea of that open-to-contamination drain-down port being eliminated. I also agree with your assesment that the diverter negates the benefit of having the backflow preventer. Dirty hands or gloves contaminated with any manner of pesticides or herbicides will be a potential source of cross-contamination.
Needs tweaking IMHO.
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