Draft Question

Jim Davis

More info would be helpful. Is there draft in the chimney when the boilers are not running? What pump pressure are they running? Do you have a CO(carbon monoxide) analyzer to
check CO at Light-Off-Run-Shutdown?
Possible problems are negative room pressure?
Air in the oil system?
Pump pressure below 125#?
The installation looks okay. Is this a two-pipe system?

Patrick Powers

Pics 2-WGO-6 and Draft Question

These are pictures to two six section WGO-6 when the boiler on the left starts it starts loud. I have always been able to get a nice quiet start out of most of the boilers I install and service. I know it has something to do with the draft and locations of the dampers. Also, note the inspection door on the boiler on the left. The draft is fine independantly and together when both boilers are running it is at .-04, but when one is running and one starts the draft trys to go out the other draft. PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE AND BANGS BOTH DAMPERS. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Big Ed

Chimney

What type,size and hight on the chimney ? And what is each firing + pump # ?

Patrick Powers

Big and clay liner. I do not have exact measurements

Jack_23

Very pretty job. Nice goin'

You could vent the furthest boiler directly into the chimney above the other. That would increase the connector rise and help a little. If so, reduce the vent conn to the breaching size. You could put a draft inducer on it with a pre and post purge (www.tjernlund.com)to help. If it is into a large masonry chimney you should look at a SS liner. Z-flex is about the best. Masonry chimneys are eleventh century technology venting 21st century appliances. If it is an outside chimney you will almost certainly need a liner in view of the current conditions.

clammy

location

Not for nothing i install alot of golds and i've found that your better off putting the baromatic dampers on the horizontal then vertical and closer to the chimmey.Every job that i run across with the dampers vertical and close to the boiler always seem to get noise complaints .Otherwise dudie that job looks great nice straight line cool beans what about oil filters and a quater inch tee for checking pump vacume installed after the filter just a idea and that beckett honeywell post pre purge relay with a oil delay is totally sweet good luck peace

Big Ed

Post Purge

Hay Clammy ! ......that second boiler has a blue control , thats a post purge model ? That's the reason for the burnt inspection door on the first boiler .I would pull the post purge ........I can't see why it's needed with a chimney ??


I also perfer the draft regulators further down the pike.. Seems like the ingnition & burner settings need a good-going-over as well.......







~##~ Real Nice Job~##~

Greg_12

pilot outage problems

I am having problems with an natural gas fired atmospheric steam boiler.The boiler is an old American Standard cast iron sectional. It as been down rated from over 2 million btu's to 49 hp fired at 1965000 btu's. It has six standing pilots conected to six pilot stats in series from right to left. We are using Johnson high temp style thermocouples.the extreme left pilot also includes a flame rod connected to an RA890 boiler control.All pilot assemblies,thermocouples and pilot stats are new. The burners were cleaned and drilled out approx. 2/3 or more blockage. This is when all the problems started.The boiler would go off on flame failure and you would find one,two,three, or more pilots out sonetimes all six.Each time we showed up to light pilots and check everything seemed ok. We decided to change the existing old pilot regulator. The problem still happened numerous times mostly at night when no one was around. We noticed the main gas valve (diaphragm style) was taking too long to close approx six seconds. We replaced it with a new one that closes in two seconds. The gas valve is two inch.Pilots still went out.We have never had a problem with gas pressure on the main reg. it stays wherever it is set.We noticed on a cool start-up it started nice and shut-off nice as the boiler began to build pressure and warm-up the start-up and shut-down became rougher and rougher.We tried different gas pressures between 2"and 3.5" w.c. and opening and closing the primary air shutters etc.The combustion air duct is 300 sq. inches we require approx 220.(it is clean and blockage free) As noted before as the bioler warmed up and venting increased its draft we had rough starts and stops. We noted the way the vent connector is ducted it draws from one draft hood more then the other. The bioler has 18 burners 9 on each side with the two draft hoods. Each hood has two 12 inch rounds going up about 10 inches into a 23x18 flat oval connected from one end six feet over to the chimney.The chimney as been lined with a 20 inch liner in the old brick chimney (chimney height is 30 feet). Because of the way the vent connector is ducted the first draft hood and burner section gets all the draft and further section actually spills slightly. Someone added an extension to the bottom of the draft hood furthest from the chimney. I should note after a few middle of the night calls up till the last call nobody has seen the pilots go out. Were they being blown out on start-up(not likely because the main flame should re-light the pilots before the thermocouples cool off) We were assuming they were going out on shut-down. One night I finally got it going out and it was indeed on shut-down.We know that the vent connector has to be changed to draw evenly from both draft hoods. The pilots that seem to go out mostly is the side with the excessive draw although the side with little to no draw has gone out too. I'm not sure if just getting an even draw is enough. I'm thinking We need to change the 20" chimney to the size that is called for the down-rated input.This has been a major headache!! Your thoughts and inputs would be greatly appreciated. "THANKS"

Patrick Powers

Clammy,

I do quite alot of Golds and I almost always put the damper in the run. I also use mostly Carlins on them. Which seem to start better.

steve_26

readings

did you test your draft reading? and what is it?
Do you know what 23x18 oval equiv.to round is?
I don't have my chimney calc.with me but it sounds like to much draft with 30' of 20" chimney with that firing rate.You need more info.
steve

Greg_12

pilot outage problems

Steve thankyou for responding to my question.In answer to if I did a draft reading. Not really. I had no draft gauge at the time I was there. I was using a testo digital pocket pressure gauge measuring inches W.C. positive&negative.This was used to determine the draft after each draft hood.I will try to get a more accurate reading for you I'll try our bacharach combustion analyzer which I think I can get draft readings. The 23x18 equates to a 21" round. And I think the code for chimney requires 16" round.Do you have any charts or info as to the minimum and maximum draft I might expect to have.