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munchkin venting instructions
paul lessard_2
Member Posts: 192
And the first thing I brought up was venting.
I told him I would bring the exhaust up the chimney and the vent over here
"no you can't do that,the intake needs to be within 8 feet of the exhaust"
when i told him that it did'nt he went to his freshly printed instructions and from it i read
""very important!!!the inlet air connection must be connected to outside air andshould be located no closer than 8" to the exhaust and no further than 36"
now the no closer part is easy to understand but the no further part has me confused
Any thoughts?
I told him I would bring the exhaust up the chimney and the vent over here
"no you can't do that,the intake needs to be within 8 feet of the exhaust"
when i told him that it did'nt he went to his freshly printed instructions and from it i read
""very important!!!the inlet air connection must be connected to outside air andshould be located no closer than 8" to the exhaust and no further than 36"
now the no closer part is easy to understand but the no further part has me confused
Any thoughts?
0
Comments
-
Venting requirement
The two issues with venting are:
1. Not too close together that the intake is getting exhaust air
2. That the length of intake and exhaust are roughly equal. That is why you can't put the intake a few feet away out the sidewall, and the exhaust 30 feet away up the chimney. Pressure drop for both needs to be equal.
Chris
0 -
right the pressure drop .....
but the way I see it, if the intake really isn't connected to anything,how can it make a difference? I could see if the intake was too long air would be taken from the room instead.hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Thanks paul0 -
I'm not sure
exactly what Munchkin calls for Paul, but it sure sounds as if it is intended to be installed or is certified as Direct Vent only. We state in our instructions that the intake and exhaust must be situated on the same wall or in your case to the roof so that balanced exhaust and intake conditions will always be prevalent. If there is a strong wind, the ability to exhaust will not be hampered because the intake is seeing the same wind. If they are situated on seperate walls or at the roof and near the ground, then balanced conditions may not be there to properly keep the pressure switch proven. Hope this helps.
Glenn Stanton
Burnham Hydronics0 -
Glenn has it!
You sure you're not doing side jobs for HTP?!!
KIDDING!!!!!!!
Mark H
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
What Glenn said...
they don't need any wind loading helping push air into thier controlled process. They figure if you have to keep them within 3 feet of each other it lessens the chances for putting them in a situation where they can be influenced by mother nature.
OR so I thinks.
ME
0 -
thanks guys
I guess i'll just be special and do it my way,other than long screws i've never had pressure switch failures...I just don't like venting them at ground level and it's tough enough getting one pipe down the santa shute.I remember blocking the vent with my hand in the past and It took alot to get the boiler to shut down.is this the same effect I wonder?thanks for the responses!!0 -
Paul
you asked "why" HTP recommends that piping configuration, not whether it would work another way.
How about 2 1/2" PVC in place of 3"?
Never floated that one by the HTP guys.
How bout it Jeff Cook? Will it work?
Mark H
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0
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