Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

myson radiators

jim f
jim f Member Posts: 182
is anyone out there familiar with the installation of myson radiators? i am putting together a quote on changing standard radiators with these tube type radiators. the home owwner is from england and prefers this look. any things i should look at or be aware of??
thanks for the input

jim f

Comments

  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928


    My literature on Myson panels (a few years old though) shows that they connect with "NPT fittings".

    I presume this is NOT the weird "backwards" compression fittings used on their hydronic towel warmers that are "difficult" to say the least! I would however verify that they use connections that you are familiar with so you know what you're getting into! The American Myson rep--you can get their phone number or e-mail from their website--was both helpful and VERY considerate regarding my problems with the towel warmer.

    If their panels are anything like their towel warmers, they are packed extremely well, finish quality is utterly superb and material quality seems very high as well.

    Hate to say it but I wound up sweating much of those crazy towel warmer connections together in a COMPLETELY "non-approved" way. No leaks--and I expect none--but the warmer is a bit crooked on the wall and I'm NOT "forcing" those joints in any way, shape or form even though some "play" in the connecting tubes was built-in. That f*$)ing thing is hanging EXACTLY in the position it "wanted" to hang!!! I just hope that I'm not the poor sap who has to EVER remove it for ANY reason!

    I don't set tile constantly by any means but have done more than enough to consider myself very proficient. You don't want to imagine the hours spent on this job--miters EVERYWHERE and EVERY grout joint planned and placed. Screw-up in the glass block is mine--planned that thing to the 'nth degree and one side STILL wound up off by a grout width. Guess I should have picked a simpler design for my first glass block!
  • DMassey
    DMassey Member Posts: 11


    I think NPT stands for national pipe thread. That means it is standard tapered pipe thread. I think the Mysons are 1/2" because I just purchased some Vehas (European panel stile radiators) and they are 1/2" NPT. The typical installation that I have seen is to have the water lines come out of the wall, which because these readiators are hung from the wall, leaves nothing on the floor.
  • Aidan
    Aidan Member Posts: 37
    Myson, NPT, BSP

    NPT stand for National Pipe Thread, as Douglas said. I understood it was a US standard. I've come across it on US-made equipment (laser heat exchangers) and obtained adaptors from Swagelok. Threaded connectors here are generally BSP (British Standard Pipe).

    I can't imagine what the problem is with Myson-US's compression joints, but I haven't seen one. The UK standard ones have a ring (called an olive, for some reason) which compresses onto the pipe with 1/2 to 1 turn from finger tight and they usually give a sound joint. I'd imagine your standard ones are much the same. Swagelok's compression joints were similar, but with a 2-part olive. How did they manage to make a simple joint into such a problem?

    "...changing standard radiators with these tube type radiators"? The Myson radiators that I know are pressed steel panel radiators, except for the towel warmers as shown in the photo. It should be a straight-forward connection to the rad valves.

    Nice job , Mike, despite all that. You're the only one who'll notice the error, but you know where to look.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928
    Myson compression joint on towel warmer valves

    First problem: figuring out that it is a compression joint! NO hookup instructions supplied! Little threaded fitting goes into the valve body. It fits PERFECTLY over a ¾" copper tube and appeared (to me) to be a sweat-on fitting.

    Second problem: the super-thin little copper compression ring is inside the valve bodies and doesn't come out unless you KNOW it's there.

    Third problem: stub-out must be ABSOLUTELY perfect in length and it's not too easy to measure inside the valve body to find the right length.

    Fourth problem: the little retainer nut that looks like it sweats on DOESN'T sweat on!!! It has STRAIGHT threads and requires a "special" locktite that doesn't come with the warmer either!

    Fifth problem: Get the part sequence on the tube RIGHT! Euscutcheon; retainer nut; compression ring!!!!!

    Sixth problem: use PLENTY of the "special" locktite! It sets up RAPIDLY and if you don't get the joint right clean it off and reapply!

    Seventh problem: while holding the valve in PERFECT orientation, keep pressing IN on the valve as you tighten the retaining nut or the assembly just "pulls out" as you tighten and the compression ring never does its job! Tighten the retaining nut JUST right--VERY easy to get it either too tight (ruining the compression ring) or too loose (leaks and by the time you get the water on the pressure test the locktite has set up and you might as well start over lest you overtighten.

    Eighth problem: You better have a good relationship with God because you need to do a lot of praying!

    Ninth problem: For some reason Myson uses o-rings on their unions--I have NO idea why. They don't like to stay in place and don't forget to use some heat-proof grease!

    --------------------------------------------

    I guess you guys in the UK are used to this. Others here have had VERY similar problems--and like I said the American Myson rep is VERY understanding...he's seen it MANY times before!
  • Aidan
    Aidan Member Posts: 37
    Myson compression joints

    No, that definitely doesn't sound like anything I've ever encountered but I've never installed a towel warmer. They must have created an export special for you.

    The ones that I know go; nut on pipe, ring on pipe, pipe in valve, tighten nut, finish. Anything more complex would be beyond me.
This discussion has been closed.