Pipe Insulation for Steam Heat

Iain

I recently removed the old pipe insulation as it was inefficient with lots of gaps etc. What I would like to know is the best,but affordable insulation to replace it with.Also if anyone has any tips for the insulation process which will be done by myself. I would also like confirmation that you only insulate the steam to radiator line and not the return.

Pete Novak

I was going to ask the same thing

I'm removing all the old asbestos frm my 60yr (or more) old installation. I was wondering myself what to replace it with. I was going to use this stuff frm areocel which is insulating foam that comes in tube or sheet form. Their specs state it can withstand continuous temps up to 257F. I never measured the temp of a steam system, but I can't imagine it being much more that 212F. The self adhesive glue that comes with some of it is only good to 212C, but they sell a cement which should last (but I don't know for sure). I'll try it out on one section of my boiler and see what happens. Take a look and tell me what you think

http://www.aeroflexusa.com/corporate.html

Pete
- Detroit

Kevin Esler_4

Me too (and a question)

I'm about to do similar. Is it advisable to insulate the quite large vertical pipe coming up out of the boiler? It certainly throws off some heat.

Lonnie Crawford

insulation

The home I purchased did not have any insulation on the pipes at all. I have the same questions. What is the best and most economical insulation and do I need to insulate the returns on a one pipe system.

Currently, I have begun insulating the mains in the basement with regular fiberglass insulation (R-13) and using duct tape to hold it. I don't care how it looks. It seems to be working except the duct tape that was rated for 200 F is not sticking too well. If anyone has any comments please let me know.

Wethead7

Insulation

You want to use firberglass with at least 1 inch wall thickness one & half or two inch is sometimes better. Use a stapler(outside cinch) on the seam. Buy a cheap blue steel kitchen knife and sharping stone. The firberglass will take the edge off real quickly. Cut the insulation out for the hangers and fittings(tee & couplings, some valves). If you really want make the job complete use the plastic fitting covers. Be sure to put the batt like insulation under the fitting covers. You should use thumb tacks to secure the fitting covers. The most inportant part wear a dust mask!!

The standard glue is ok for low pressure steam(the kind in most homes). The other tip is take your time. Some people use a puddy wedge to seal down the seam. Stapling helps keep the jacket in place after the glue dries up in three or four years.

We try to use one & half or two inch insulation on steam side. The steamside start a the boiler. Covering the return will raise the return temp. and reduce the fuel bill. But be careful not to remove all the heat from places that need it.IE basements, crawlspaces with out rads.or other forms of heat. The riser pipes may also be covered but don't forget to protect the pipe covering from mech damage.

Please insulate safely.

Mike

gehring

Home Depot sells fiberglass pipe insulation wrapped in white paper with a pull off/adhesive tab flap for sealing. They come in 3 foot sections and are made for various pipe diameters from 1" to 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 to 2" etc. They average around $5.00 (more or less) per 3' section. I then used the 3" x 25' fiberglass wrap for my joints and fittings and held those wraps on with black duct tape. I'm sure there are more professional methods but this was easy and seemed to work fine.