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American Standard Arcoliner - Replace?
gehring
Member Posts: 65
I also had a 50 year old A/S Acroliner (Steam) boiler that I recently replaced. When I busted up the old boiler with a sledge hammer so I could get it out of the basement I noticed how thick and substantial the walls of the cast iron sections still were. It seemed like it still had plenty of life left in it as far as durability, but it just was not very efficient on the fuel consumption and the return line and lower sections of the boiler showed massive sedimentation that was slowly clogging the actual return tapping. I figured since that one lasted for so long I would do well to get a new, modern Acroliner, but they no longer exist - they are now Burnham. So I got a Burnham. The experts may not think think my logic makes any sense, but I am happy with my choice.
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Comments
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A-S Arcoliner Boiler
I have one of these which was installed circa 1950. It has a newer (circa 1980) Beckett AF burner. My house is small with a simple one-zone, cast iron radiator (water) system.
This unit heats well and has given me no problems, but I have been told that the draft loss of these boilers is huge and that were it rated today, it would probably get about a 60% AFUE. The age of it concerns me, in part due to the fact that it still has the original Detroit Lubricator controls on it. It also has no low-water shutoff, and there is a radiator in the basement which is below the bottom of the boiler.
I would welcome any opinions on whether or not I need to get serious about replacing it. Thanks in advance.
John
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what is your ....
heating bill like? Does it give you enough hot water? How long are you planning to stay there? There are lots of options...I replaced my brother-in laws system (a system very similar to yours) and in the first year saved 400 gallons in fuel ,and that was in a colder winter. kpc0 -
Heating bills aren't bad, I generally burn about 500 gals per season. It has a tankless coil but I don't use it, a previous owner installed a gas HW heater.
I plan to be here a few more years, perhaps not long enough for a new unit to pay for itself, but I am also thinking about a new system as a potential selling point for the house. The house is old, built in 1900, so I think anything new or upgraded will be an advantage when it comes time to sell.0 -
bump0 -
detroit lub.
you could donate the detroit lubricator controls to the smithsonion. they made one helluva control. way ahead of its time.0 -
agreed
Yes, to my knowledge they've never been serviced. Just based on appearance, they seem to have been designed to last forever!
No other comments on the replacement question?0 -
It might make more sense
to spend your money first on insulation, windows, weatherstripping and other items that will reduce the heat loss of your house. Then if you decide to replace the boiler, you can get a smaller one.
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Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Thanks, much of the work to reduce heat loss has been done.
I'm not looking at this so much from a desire to save fuel (although certainly that's part of it) as I am from a concern that this 50+ year old boiler may be living on borrowed time.
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Are you kidding?
It should have been replaced once already 25 years ago and now it's time for another upgrade! You ever wonder why your fuel company wants you to keep it?
hb
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replace it
My mom had one. It was original to the house. I replaced it about three years ago so it was way passed Heatboys schedule. I think I could put my arm all the way to the back of the heat block, not very tight.
You heats just waving at the boiler as it runs up the chimney. Replace it.
Scott
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Boiler replacement
I would not worry about boiler leaking. I have seen many more 12-15 year old boilers that cracked or leaked than 50 year old ones. Old boilers are usually replaced to save money on oil-gas.0 -
Thanks
for all the opinions. Any recommended manufacturers?
I've been told to look at Weil-McLain, HB Smith, and Burnham. Everybody's basic design seems to be about the same, so I suppose a lot of it comes down to the build quality of the unit and its efficiency.0 -
The most important
thing to look for in regards to a new boiler is the quality of the installation.
Look for a reputable contractor in your area and see what they recommend.0 -
Boiler Brand Recommendations
We install Weil-McLain Gold Oil series boilers and Burnham V8 series boilers as our only recommendations. The Weil-McLain has just over 85% efficiency, which meets the Energy Councils 5 star plus energy program (big in Alaska), and is reliable. The unit is taller than a Burnham, but not as wide or deep.
The Burnham V8 series is slightly more efficient at 86% plus. The boiler is shorter, wider and deeper than a Weil-McLain Gold series. The swing door system is nicer on the Burnham, as is the burner cover (cuts down drastically on the noise, until you hear one you won't understand.) The inlet and outlet are on opposite sides from the Weil-McLain which can take some getting used to for piping planning, but once you are familiar with it, you might like it more.
The sections on the Burnham are what really tip the scale for me. They are thicker than a Weil-McLain and they are, for lack of a better word bulkier. There is more mass to a Burnham than an equivalent Weil-McLain. The heat transfers better to the water on a Burnham, and the access panel is on the right hand side of the boiler, fastened by two removable threaded bolts w/knob handles. The entire surfaces of each section can be fully accessed EASILY on the Burnham, whereas the Weil-McLain is rather iffy with the top removed; the edges of the sections never seem to be sparkling clean.
Price in our area on the Burnhams is cheaper than Weil-McLains. Weil-McLain and their dealers have been averaging 4 months per price increase. They seem to be overly proud of their boilers.
If you really want to go for high efficiency though, try the new Burnham Opus series boiler. It has 90% efficiency off #2 fuel oil. I didn't even think it was possible, but they did it.0 -
the boiler itself would probably out live you. the problems are going to be in the moving parts, combustion chamber, vent pipe, ect. probably not worth being nickle and dimed to death for an ineffiecent boiler. if it were me I would install buderus with room sensor and constant circulation and an indirect water heater.0 -
Thanks for the comments about W-M and Burnham
I checked Burnham's website but I cannot find anything about the Opus boilers.
Anyone experienced with Smith Series 8? They are rather popular around here (CT). Like the Burnham, they have a side access panel for cleaning which seems to be a nice feature. They are also rear-vented which they claim cuts down on noise.
Another question if I may: What is the general feeling about
metal nipples vs. elastomer rings to seal the boiler sections? Burnham uses nipples, most others I've looked at use the elastomer rings.0 -
what part of CT.?
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what part of CT.?
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Torrington0 -
New Boiler
Seriously conside the Buderus before you purchase any "vertical pin" style. The Buderus is so much easier to service, and we find them easier to install than most other brands. Make sure your installation is piped to "pump away", there's a book about it on this website. Run a single pipe oil feed, and two filters arent a bad idea. If you can afford it have them install an indirect water heater. Any unit works better when it runs year-round. The reason yours lasted so long was that it was thick as hell and maintained temp due to the old tankless coil. Think about parking your car for 5-6 months then starting it up on the first cold day. As previously stated, The installer is much more important than brand!!!0 -
Boiler Replacement
Web site is www.buderus.net
Thanks Todd
Steven Grady0 -
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Burnham Opus Series
Check out http://www.aboutopus.com/products.cfm for the website detailing the opus series. It is amazing reading. The brochure they can send you is very informative as well, definitely worth asking for.0 -
Energy Kinetics is my favorite for hot water
and for domestic hot water.
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