moving a cast iron radiator

Steve_20

I'm doing some remodelling, and I have a one-pipe steam system with cast iron radiators. In the room we're re-doing, I'd like to move the radiator. Basically I'd like it to sit on the other side of where the pipe comes out from the wall. The shutoff valve is a 90 degree fitting that comes out from the wall, and turns to the right meeting the radiator. Essentially I want to turn that around so that it goes to the left. Is this as simple as tightening the valve fitting 180 degrees after I've removed the radiator, and then re-attaching it on the other side afterwards? Is this something I can do myself, or would I be well-advised to get a plumber in to do it? It seems like a simple job ... but I'd hate to cause myself grief by breaking a pipe, etc.

Thanks in advance.

Al Letellier

valve turn-around

Steve, re-positioning radiators and the re-piping involved can be very frustrating as pipes like to fuse together when they've been in a steam system for years.
It will be more involved than just spinning the valve as it is already tight. Unless you have two good wrenches and lots of muscle ( and the knowledge to go with it) hire it done. You can easily egg-shape a nipple or worst yet, snap a fitting in the wall.

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bigugh_4

Amen, Amen

& AMEN!

Tom_22

How Long A Wrench Do You Like For Old 1 1/4\" Steam Pipes

How long of a pipe wrench do you like to use for old 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" steam pipes? Seems like pretty long ones are needed or a cheater pipe over the handle.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

If you want to try...

I've NEVER broken an old steam joint--only hot water. Have read/heard that old joints in steam systems can be very cantankerous. At least you're talking about a brass-to-iron joint and perhaps it won't be too bad...

If you try this you will likely succeed without problems.

Get a can of silicon spray--the "cheap" kind that lists "petroleum distillate" as the prime ingredient. Spray the joint every half hour or so for a couple of hours. An overnight wait between sprayings probably won't hurt but give it a couple sprays the next day.

Once the radiator is removed (of course) use TWO pipe wrenches at least 18" long. DON'T TRY TO TIGHTEN THE JOINT BY 180°! VERY slight chance of this working. Instead, remove and re-make the joint as follows:

Use the wrenches in opposition to one another--one on the valve, one on the riser. Use force, but not extreme force--sorry but I can't define it better than that. It is entirely possible to collapse the pipe but doing do is rather difficult with an 18" or 24" wrench if the pipe is in reasonable shape. Apply steady pressure--don't jerk--and use a "cheater bar" at your own risk!

Remove the valve entirely. Get a small, soft, brass brush and clean the male threads of the pipe and the female threads of the valve--you want to remove the old loose pipe dope--be careful not to let the gunk drop into the riser pipe. Rinse the valve and wipe the pipe threads with a damp rag.

Use paste-type pipe dope (Rector Seal is probably good for this as it first lubricates and then hardens) on the MALE pipe thread KEEPING IT A COUPLE OF THREADS AWAY FROM THE END OF THE PIPE.

Re-install the valve to the new position. Make it tight but not too tight--again it's hard to define as it's just something you learn. DON'T "BACK-OFF" BY LOOSENING ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY FOR PERFECT ALIGNMENT.

Re-install the radiator and CHECK ITS PITCH. Ideally it will pitch slightly towards the valve. If DEAD level it will probably work OK, but if it is pitched away from the valve build up the legs opposite the valve to give the proper pitch.

Tom_22

That's a great explanation Mike. I was wondering one thing, however. Why it is important not to put pipe dope on the last couple of threads of the male connection?

Mike T., Swampeast MO

With steam systems in particular you want to WORK VERY CLEAN. Oil, pipe dope, etc. makes it way back to the boiler where it floats on top of the water and produces dirty, wet steam--something you DON'T want.

Granted you probably wouldn't have a problem with just one joint, but you might as well do it right...

People often have a regular plumber move a steam radiator. Plumber doesn't clean off the cutting oil, isn't careful with the dope and doesn't clean the boiler afterwards. Customer winds up with noisy, spitting rads and uneven heat.

Dennis - Reliable Services

Excellent advice, but if

the pipe size is 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 have some 36" wrenches handy.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

I'm trying to give \"safe\" advice

Thus the repeated soaking with the "cheap" silicon spray. If you haven't tried, it actually works on that old dope that turns to cement. I was truly shocked. No idea if it will work similarly with old steam joints.

Had already collapsed a 1½" pipe with a 36" wrench. No big deal as it was being replaced but HAD to break other joints where failure would mean putting holes in a faux painted wall. Old counter man an good old plumbing house told me that people had recently been swearing by this.

A 36" or larger Stilson wrench is an extremely powerful tool that can easily cause damage when you haven't yet determined the force you can safely use.

With smaller you may well make yourself sore or have to go into crazy positions to get leverage, but it's rather difficult to harm the pipe/fitting AS LONG AS YOU USE THEM IN PAIRS.