Freeze proofing/rust/inhibitors

George_10

I appreciate the referral.

I would be happy to answer any questions you may have about our treatment solutions. We have two specific products for use in either hydronic heating systems or snow melt systems.

You can contact me direct if you wish.

George@rhomarwater.com

c-rex

Ijust read the dirty glycol

post, and got to wondering. I have had gasket failures on zone and mixing valves after five to seven years, and while the fluid was not discoloured, I did kinda think that was a short life cycle. What don't I know, and what else do I add when using a product like Nobel no burst, cut 50/50. Living in rural WI, freeze ups due to power loss are a consideration. Being a dyed in the wool cast iron guy, and
being more prone to using a circ. than a ZV, am I missing something? Be kind, this is only my third week.......

Mark Eatherton1

One word...

www.rhomarwater.com/

Okay, so it's more than one word... Welcome to the Wall. We're all third weekers here:-)

Stick around. You might learn something.

ME

hr

My tips

You really want to clean and flush the system well. Use a hydronic system cleaner, or at least a TSP cleaner.

Use good blend water to mix the glycol. Most manufactures like to see DI (deionized) water used.

Siggys new software has an excellent volume calculator. If you know the tubing or piping run lengths, you will get very close.

As ME indicated, use air to blow out the system, then pump in the correct "premixed" solution. 35-40% should be adequate.

Run the system for a few hours, or overnight, then test the fluid. If the protection rate is low, just pump in additional "undiluted" glycol. With full strength it usually only requires a gallon or two to change the freeze rate higher, in a small residential system. Not a large expense, based against a solution that is too weak

Save any solution you pump out in this last step, to start off the next glycol job.

hot rod

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