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DIRTY GLYCOL

3200 gals.
The glycol has treatment in it but I don't know what. Its done by a different crew.
Some of the system is old and some new.
I have faith in our chemical crew to put all the right stuff in.The system was chemically treated and cleaned over a period of two years then we put in new glycol. It was fine until things happened and the pressure was down for two weeks then we filtered it clean then the power failure caused another pressure drop. I know now that we have to keep the pressure up but I am curious how long should it take to muck it up.

Comments

  • Dean Rodger
    Dean Rodger Member Posts: 2
    dirty glycol

    How long does it take for a fairly clean glycol system to get dirty after air has been accidentally sucked in.We have a system that got mucky in a week. We had a power failure on a weekend, then a trip when it came back on. It got cold and the pressure dropped enough to suck air. We would like to know if it was the air or something else that made the glycol dirty.
  • George_10
    George_10 Member Posts: 580
    some system questions

    How much fluid including the glycol?
    Was this inhibited or uninhibited?
    Do you know for a fact that it was clear before this happened?
    How long has the system, with this glycol, been in use or is it a new system?

    These questions and their answers may enable us to help with your question.

    George@rhomarwater.com
  • canuckDale
    canuckDale Member Posts: 77
    Depends?

    Is the glycol treated? With what?

    Closed treatments are usually nitrite or molybdenum based. Both use oxygen to form anodic films on iron.
    When excess air (oxygen) is introduced, it depletes the treatment and passivation of the iron and then simply causes rust, or undisolved iron.... Be it black or red.

    Keep the pressure up and the treatment.

    Good luck
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    A dirty color

    doesn't mean it has gone bad. With any system that has steel of cast, the glycol will pick up some color. Hard to keep it that bright green, red, blue, or whatever color you buy :)

    The biggest issue is to watch the ph, and of course freeze protection level. Both should be checked yearly, AT LEAST!

    Both of these test can be performed by you, at the job, with fairly inexpensive, and accurate testers. Purchase a pair of electronic ph tester www.graingers.com (under 100 bucks) and a refractometer (100 or so)

    www.misco.com makes an excellent tester.

    Then the key is to treat, or boost the "package" before the ph slips. Bolow mid to low 6 ph, it may be time to flush, clean, and redo the glycol. Recycle the old fluid.

    hot rod

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This discussion has been closed.