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I hate baseboard

Wilson
Wilson Member Posts: 6
Trying to retrofit an existing hotwater baseboard system with the typical ugly metal radiators. Was wondering if anybody had any experience with running copper fin tubing betwee floor joists and topping them off with wooden floor grates between the hardwood floor planks like these here:

www.gratevents.com or here www.ccairgrilles.com

Comments

  • kk_2
    kk_2 Member Posts: 57


    Here is a place that offers more attractive covers for baseboard units. That might be another option.

    http://www.radiantwraps.com/
  • kk_2
    kk_2 Member Posts: 57
    another option

    Another option might be something like this...

    http://www.radiantwraps.com/

    They make alternate covers for existing baseboard units.
  • Joe_13
    Joe_13 Member Posts: 201
    Don't do it

    The BB works on air convection. How is room air gonna get back under the fin tube to get reheated? You need a floor mounted fan convector to do what you want to do.
    www.mysoninc.com Also try looking into low profile BB that looks like moulding: http://www.sterlingheat.com/html/designline.html
    also checkout
    http://www.beacon-morris.com/html/heat_sliding_glass_door_window.htm
  • BillW@honeywell
    [email protected] Member Posts: 1,099
    Take a look at...

    some of the offerings fron Burnham, SlantFin for cast iron, which is better for heating anyway. European manufacturers like Runtal make panel radiators and other heat delivery equipment that is more artwork than utilitarian, check it out! Pricey, but very efficient, and easy on the eyes.
  • George Peteya
    George Peteya Member Posts: 34
    Still another option

    Wilson -
    Do, or have done, a heat loss calculation. You may learn that you don't need as much baseboard as you currently have. Maybe you hate baseboard because it appears to be taking over your house.

    You can get free heat loss software (Hydronic Explorer) at www.slantfin.com.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    I've seen

    baseboard element under the floor, but is is acting as a radiant floor system. Works well. Better output than plain pex in a staple up application.

    The Ultra Fin product is actua;;y a copy of baseboard element radiant.

    Run the calcs on the room. Maybe a radiant floor is all you need.

    hot rod

    To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"
  • Jed_2
    Jed_2 Member Posts: 781
    Floor Grates

    You can do this, BUT, you must frame each fin element setting correctly. Commercialy available Floor Vectors are available, with their stamped metal grates(Beacon Morris, for one),with an air baffle separator. This allows cold air to drop below the baffle and heating element, and convectively rise across the fin element side to deliver the goods. To do this field fabricated, you would need to construct a boxed out equivalent beneath the floor. Could require joist heading off, etc. Very labor intensive, but , hey, it will work. And then there is the dust, etc., to regularly vacuum out.

    Just some thoughts.

    Jed

    p.s. Oh, and a heat loss calculation is a good idea, but, I don't quite know how you calculate the actual per foot heat output of such a system. It's not in any resources I've found other than the Commercialy available products.
    Field fabricated would be some what of a guessing game.
  • Steve Whitbeck
    Steve Whitbeck Member Posts: 669


    If you want to get rid of the baseboard you can just put fintube under the floor.
    What I do is find the heat loss and then put fin tube under the floor ( keep the fins about 1 inch below the underside of the floor ) If it is going to be under carpet You can install it every other joist bay. If it is under tile or vinyl you need to put it under every bay or you will feel hot and cold spots. I use 100 BTU's per ft of fin. You don't need to fill the entire length of the bay with fin. If the room has 5 bays say 10 ft long and the heat loss calls for 20 ft of tube what I do is install 2 ft pieces about 2 ft from each end and 2 ft between them ( two 2 foot pieces with a 2 foot piece of pipe installed between them.)
    Keep the fin tube as close to the floor without it hitting the underside or any nails sticking through.
    You must insulate below any underfloor system.
    I usually use 3 inch kraft faced fiberglass.
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