Munchkin boiler blues

Joh n Brickey

Guys I did it. I put in my first Munchkin boiler today. It is light weight, easy to understand instructions and easy installation. The trouble is, it don't work!!! The inducer comes on and goes through it's test stage but when the burners fire they just die out and after three tries it locks out and reads #9. I checked the vent for obstructions and the drain is clear. It is NAT gas and has a 1" line feeding it. The gas pressure is steady @ 6.5"w.c. Anything else I should check or did I get the lemon. I hope it's not a lemon I just sold 5 more of them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! John

paul lessard_2

Dont fret you'll like em

Make sure that the crimped connector on the flame rod is tight.try going into the d menu and look for d7 I think you need 1.5 to keep it going normal is 4

Mark Hunt

Call HTP


You may have a bad board. It may not be bringing the inducer up to a high enough speed .

Mark H

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Wayco Wayne

Make sure

the gas valve is turned on. Doh!.

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Jack_23

Ground

Check your ground, all the way back to the panel if necessary.

Joh n Brickey

same old blues

Waco the gas valve is on,boy I wish it was that simple. Jack the ground wire is fine this is a new house and I wired the unit myself and I did check it at the breaker panel. Paul, I checked the crimped connector and it snaps on real nice and tight. I'm not sure what you mean by the d menu. Mark, the Inducer comes on and the burners fire up. But they only stay on for a few seconds and then act like the gas pressure is just sucked away. I put a manometer on the inducer and it read about .2 or so. It acts like it is not venting properly, so I cut the vent and let it blow in the room and it still did the same thing. The code says 009, meaning gas pressure or vent problem. I will probably have to call HTP about it. Damn it I was so ready for this thing to be awesome. I kept telling the HO how good it was and he stood right by me while I scratched my head in utter stupidity. Thanks all, but if you have any other advice I'll listen.

D lux_2

Black wire Hot ?

White wire to grn in crt box ? and wired right in board?

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Wayco Wayne

D lux

That's the best suggestion so far. I had it happen to me when I installed a Buderus 2 years ago. I traced the white and black back to the junction box and some ninny had switched them back there. Worked fine after it was switched back. WW

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Mark Hunt

009


If this is an 80m, it may still be the board. You also need to look at the flame rectification reading.

On the panel, press and hold s4 for 3 seconds. You should get a flashing d1 code. Press s4 repeatedly until you get to d8. Fire the boiler and see what the reading is. Anything less than .8 will cause the burner to drop out. If that is the case, you need ton check the connection to the flame rod, or you may need to replace it.

We recently had an 80m with a board that was programmed incorrectly and would not bring the inducer fan to a high enough RPM to keep the burner on.

Don't despair, it IS agreat product.

Mark H

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chuck shaw

the munchkin

is polairty (sp) sensitive, on the 120volt circut as well as the low voltage circuit. I had a problem with this on my first munchkin as well. Disconect the wires going to "TT" on the boiler, twist them together, and see if it it lights off properly. If it does, it is a low voltage problem outside of the boiler. If not, check your white and black to ground. Make sure that they are correct. And of course, if you have a problem, call HTP. They are great with tech support.

Hope this helps,

Chuck

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steve gates

Ihad a endurance do this

a while ago. Needed a new igniter and flame sensor. Maybe ?

Mark Eatherton1

Sounds like...

a gas supply pressure problem to me. Put a manometer on the supply piping and see what happens. If it starts out strong, then drops like a rock, you've got a bad regulator/meter or possibly a partially open gas valve someplace up stream. Maybe the one clear out at the meter. Of course, I'm assuming natural gas here. If it's propane, it could be the primary or secondary regulator, or a crimped fuel supply line, or an empty tank, or or...

Anytime you are making thousands of "widgets", you can expect a certain percentage of bad cookies in the bunch. It just happens, and it happens to anyone in the manufacturing business. What makes the difference between the good guys and the great guys is the technical support behind the product. WIth HTP, you will get EXCELLENT tech service. From the owner of the company to the sales manager, they will jump through hoops to help you.

Please let us know how you got it resolved.

ME

Guy_5

I wish that you had given us a call. Sometimes it is necessary to slightly adjust the gas/air mixture on an initial startup. Unfortunately, if you can't get the unit to stay running, it is not possible to test the CO levels.
Try this- cover the air intake on the right side of the blower about 3/4 of the way. Essentially you are choking the unit. This will allow the unit to fire and run long enough for you to set the throttle on the gas valve (page 10 in the manual). On high fire you should set the Co to 105ppm.
Every unit is pressurized and test fired here at the factory. We have found that the gas that we have here has more bang than some of the gas that is out there, therefore when the unit is dropping down to low fire the mix is too lean to support a decent flame.

Please PLEASE call us if you have any problem with ANY of our products.
We do everything possible to manufacture and deliver a premium quality product. That includes being here to help you through any issues that may arise.

Mark et al, thank you for all of your input on this particular issue.

Joh n Brickey

IT works , It works

I did call the factory and it was a fuel mixture problem. Guy you are the one that walked me through the steps to get it going. You guys are great. Not just HTP but all you guys on the wall. Again thanks alot for all the responses and advice. Now I have 4 more to install. YAHOO!!!!

Riles_3

Perfect

This post demonstrates better than any post I have ever read the power of "The Wall".

Perfect sequence of feedback/suggestions from contractors and the manufacturer leading to the problem being solved.

Well done.

Jeff "Riles" Riley