Dryheads do steam!

Steamhead

I looked again and I think I got it backwards the first time........ long day today.

The steam pipe goes straight up and the equalizer goes off the side, correct? If so, I'm afraid you may have problems with carry-over water as Dan says- but you could fix it by replacing that tee with an elbow turning horizontally, then a tee with the bull pointing up to the steam main, then the elbow to the equalizer. A couple of 45s in the steam main will bring it right down into the tee.

I think it's past my bedtime..........

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John Mills_3

Here's the end result...

of the old beast Steamhead & others were advising us on. The guys went back today to remove the cleaner and skim the boiler. The water level problem seemed to have improved before the work so hopefully will be behaving fine with clean water.

How did we do?

DanHolohan

How does

the carryover water get into the equalizer?

John Mills_3

OOOOOOps

By piping straight up, we blew it, huh. I assume it is pretty critcal that we fix it? I don't see a real easy way from the pictures but I'm sure it is possible.

Steamhead

Thru

the bullheaded tee at the end of the header. But just about everything else looks OK from what I can see.

John, that was pretty good for a first try. And it will probably work OK. This job reminds me of the very first time I installed a steamer- I made a lot more mistakes than that, and it still worked. I certainly don't want to sound like I'm picking the job apart. But since you asked........

Next time, use a tee for the steam takeoff with the bull pointing up into the steam main, and a separate elbow pointing down for the equalizer. This will make sure no water gets into the steam main. I'd also use both steam tappings like we do on Columbias, even though I believe Dunkirk says you only need to use one on their smaller steamers. All this will make the process of separating steam from water much more effective.

On the plus side, it looks like you have plenty of height between the header and the boiler's waterline- most boiler companies specify a minimum of 24 inches and it looks like you went much higher. This will make it much more difficult for carry-over water to reach the header. And you installed a skimming/flushing tee at the steam outlet. You'll be able to keep that boiler nice and clean by flushing it thru that tee.

Welcome to the Steam Club. Can't wait to see your next job.

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John Mills_3

Thanks Steamhead

This was our 4th steam job. The first was most dramatic taking out a 1920 coal coverted monster. We had help from the mfr. rep and it came out beautifully.

I suggested dual tapping on the supply but the installer, probably looking for an easier job, pointed out that Dunkirk said it wasn't necessary. We will do it for sure next time, I promise!

Appreciate the advice from all who give it. There is basically no chance of training on steam locally and since we probably have under 10 steam boilers out of many thousands of customers, not a big priority anyway. Of course if Glenn wants to return and give us a steam class, WE will be there!!!! 2 of our 4 steam jobs have been his boilers!

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This house is for sale!!! Got $2.5 mil handy?

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Steamhead

My Pleasure

It's tempting to try to reduce the amount of pipe and fittings on a steam job. But each properly sized piece of pipe and each properly placed fitting contributes to the job working properly. There's no way around this- the laws of physics prevail.

So when are you putting steam into your own house? ;-)

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steve_6

no header ????

wet steam. I'd try to follow the instructions next time!

steve_6

if you do

what Steamhead recomends. You have to do it in full size pipe !! 2 1/2" pipe minimum. The bigger the header the better. you can't bush it down. Where's the bypass on the water feeder? did you install a backflow preventer in that water line? Couldn't see it from your pictures.

Mad Dog

Johnny Boy!!!!!!!! You deserve credit for putting up the work

for critque....now your gonna get it! Just kidding. I never worked with that brand of boiler, but I'm sure they come with pretty good paperwork on how to build the header and setting up the Hartford loop and returns. Steamhaed would know that I think he uses that brand too. I still remember the first steam boiler i replaced for Uncle Bob. He picked out a Weil-McLain..we got it down the stairs and then the fun began. The old boiler had a 4" tapping that went straight up into the steam mains. The weil-Mclain manual said you needed the equilizer , but Uncle Bob, said, nonsense!"It worked this way for 80 years and that the way its going back." and it did. While he struggled trying to match up the old 4" flange and the new 4 x 3 coupling and flange, I did get to have my way with the Hartford loop ( I knew this was very critical and would not budge) I followed the book to the tee. Everthing worked fine, and that was 10 years ago at least. I think the 4" riser was very forgiving. But after that job, I always followed the specs until I learned other ways that were sometimes better. Bottom line, Mike until you get really comfiortable with The Steam, you need to follow the specs. Before you do the next one, ask us, we'll show u the way. Good luck and keep trying. I've seen much worse, Pal....you learnin'!!! Mad Dog

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John Mills_3

Thanks guys

We may need to correct that header. The installer had the Dunkirk manual, also The Lost Art. Not sure why he did what he did other than no training besides the book. None of the rest of us caught it til I posted and Dan saw it right away. If all is working fine, is it critical that we change it?

Not sure about backflow preventer but there is a check valve in the supply out of the picture.

As I said before, would be nice to get some training but with the few steamers in town, guess none of the supplier or manufacturers finds it cost effective to have a seminar addressing steam. Glenn touched on it last time he was here but we need MORE! Hint Hint!

Unknown

Don't feel so bad

When I first started installing steam boilers circa 1986 , that is how we piped all of them . Not to mention quite a few headers in copper . But our learning curve improved real quick since we were installing about 3 or 4 steamers a week for almost 10 years . It takes me a while , but I do catch on to the right way of doing things . Maybe someday I will forego the copper returns too .

Make sure to post some pics if you decide to repipe the boiler John . Between you and me , sometimes I work in a home with a new steamer piped wrong , and the customer says they never had a problem with it yet , not a whimper . But you are better off doing it right , in case of trouble down the road . Take care John .

Dale

On the first picture

I wonder if the white at the end of the relief valve piping is pipe dope on threads, if it is you may want to cut the threads off so a cap can never be applied, funny what we see.

Mark Hunt

John


I see a pipe coming into the equalizer well above the water line. What is it?

If it is a dry return you will have problems. It needs to be dropped below the water line.

As I said, I can't see what it is.

Mark H

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