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My vapor system working well but
Bryan_5
Member Posts: 270
I think the Rads should be a little hotter. I have the wet return repiped and for those that remember my earlier post "Gate valve vs Ball valve" I did go with the Ball valve. If they dont hold up so be it I will just swap them out. The system is running very well all the water hammer is completly gone. The only thing you hear is the boiler running.
I have had the heat on for about a month now and I think that a couple of Rads should be hotter. The one in my Bedroom which is upstairs is only getting hot across the top. Now I am not sure if this is the case because it is not that cold yet so the boiler doesnt run a lot. Or if I need to add more vents. I have 1 Gorton #2 on each steam main and a Gorton #2 and a Hoffman #75 on the Dry Return.
Steamhead BTW I did recheck my EDR and it was around 350. I got some numbers off of the boiler plate it says its 149,000btu and 1.9 GPH. The burner is a newer Beckett and has a 1.25 nozzle in it. I am having the Boiler serviced friday, any changes to the nozzle?
Thanks again
Bryan
I have had the heat on for about a month now and I think that a couple of Rads should be hotter. The one in my Bedroom which is upstairs is only getting hot across the top. Now I am not sure if this is the case because it is not that cold yet so the boiler doesnt run a lot. Or if I need to add more vents. I have 1 Gorton #2 on each steam main and a Gorton #2 and a Hoffman #75 on the Dry Return.
Steamhead BTW I did recheck my EDR and it was around 350. I got some numbers off of the boiler plate it says its 149,000btu and 1.9 GPH. The burner is a newer Beckett and has a 1.25 nozzle in it. I am having the Boiler serviced friday, any changes to the nozzle?
Thanks again
Bryan
0
Comments
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Bryan...lose the Hoffman and replace with another Gorton
what is probably happening is that the t-stat is satisfying before rads are completely hot. Don't be afraid to experiement. Last weekend I changed the vent on my kitchen rad to a Hoffman #1 main vent....yes! you heard right. It was not getting as hot as I wanted...does now. Sometimes you want one that lags and doesn't get hot all the way, but that may be fine for that room. My theory: Vent the (*&(*&^*(&^&*(^&%^$&^*(&*(*(&( out of the system, it saves fuel. Mad Dog0 -
Mad Dog,
Thanks for the reply, The only reason the hoffman is on there is because it was a replacment under waranty. I had it so I put it on. I think you are correct. The hottest Rad is not that far from the T Stat which is on the first floor. Any way around that problem? How many Gortons should I have? Possibly add another to each main and the the dry return?
Bryan0 -
Venting
Two-pipe vapor systems usually are trapped after each rad and each main drip. All the dry returns come back to a common vent opening that needs no special vent if the system is controlled by a Vaporstat and the opening is at least 28 inches above the boiler's water line.
Vapor systems have large pipes, with lots of air space, and need large openings not usually met by even "hurry vents." In one big house I service, the opening is one inch diameter, and the air does move!0 -
Time to clean those water seals
on the rad returns. They have holes drilled in them to vent air and I'll bet those holes are partially obstructed. See the Broomell section of Lost Art for a drawing of what's inside this type of unit.
I think the Hoffman vent can stay where it is- teamed with the Gorton #2, this should be enough capacity to vent those rads. However, if the dry return vents hiss loudly as the system heats up, you need more capacity.
The nozzle might be a bit big for that system, but I don't think it's grossly oversized. Maybe try a 1.10 GPH and see how that works. You don't want your net stack temperature below about 300 degrees, and a too-small nozzle can cause this.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Steamhead,
Why did I know you were going to tell me that. I would have liked to just add another vent I will check the lost art.
A couple quick questions. I am assuming they will all need to be cleaned? Will I be able to do that by just remouving the plugs? Or will they need to be disconneceted to clean?
Thanks
Bryan0 -
BTW, I dont recall seeing these type of water seal traps in the lost art but I will check again. If you recall I have 2 different types.0 -
I dont recall seeing these types in the Lost Art but I will check it out. As you may recall I have 2 types of water seal traps on my system. Pics are attatched.0 -
I'm not sure
if you can get to the vent hole by removing the plug on your water seals. You may have to disconnect the rads to do it.
The drawing you want is Figure 27A, page 254.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Steamhead,
Thanks, I checked it out last night. I thought before I even mess with it I should try turning the temp up. It has not been that cold. I normaly keep the house at 68. So I turned it up to 72 and with in 45 minutes the temp was up to 72 and all the Radiators in the house were piping hot all the way down and all the way across. I should have known they wouldnt get hot when the boiler isnt running that much. Some times its the simple things. I do keep the radiators turned off in 2 bedrooms and also the 2 in my double parlor. I did notice that one of the rads in the parlor had a cold steam pipe to the rad. I didnt check that pipe in the basement just in the room, I will check that tonight.
I do believe that this system is running the way the deadmen wanted it to. And I have you to thank for that. And I will always be greatful for the comfort that you have provided for my family.
Thanks again,
Bryan0
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