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Big steamer day 2 , and a few questions

me , Kenny and Paul got today . Sorry about the lack of light , this place swallows it up . The pics don't do the whole pipejob justice - they look kinda small but they're all 4 inch , except for the equalizer . We had to slide the sections down into the pit on a handtruck and had to work on a ladder and on top of the boiler to connect the header in . Also , there was no store within close range that threads 4 inch , so we had to make do with what we could find . It worked out pretty good .

Got a few questions for the guys who install these boilers -
How far do you back the draw rods out after you pull the sections together ? And is there supposed to be a blanket or target wall to install in these boilers ?

Kenny had a hell of a time getting the front plate on the boiler . We know that the lowest bolt is supposed to hold the plate while you find the other holes , but for future maintenance it makes life much easier if there were studs and nuts instead of the bolts . That front plate is heavy . Other than that the install went pretty smooth .

Theres a shot of the returns coming together - the pitch back to the condensate pump is good . The other pic is of something piped in right before the return goes into the tank . Does anyone know what it is ? Thanks for taking some time to look at the job .

Comments

  • Returns teed together picture

    That location, if the lowest end of the high return, should be the only vent in the system, and it should be big. Don't vent the high end, because it'll pull water uphill and hold it back in the radiation, until everything gets hot. Right after they turn it up in the morning, it'll bang for a while.

    If you come into the tank level, connected to a tee in the return riser, such that the line empties into the tank completely, it'll take all of the return water, and be a fail-proof vent of awesome size. You won't need any other, and it'll save fuel, too.

    I dunno what that thing is, but it looks like a F&T trap. If it is, it proves that it used to run gravity with a fat boiler. The trap and tank came together.

    Noel
  • jerryb
    jerryb Member Posts: 113
    trap

    I't looks like b+j( bARNES+jONES) f+t YRAP.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    I agree

    someone "master trapped" that pump. Pull it out, you don't need it to begin with and it will mess up the return flow to the tank.

    To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Dave DeFord
    Dave DeFord Member Posts: 119
    Maybe this picture will be better..

    Just brightened it up a bit
  • Ron

    There should have been a target wall and chamber blanket installed in this boiler. I am assuming you split the block to get it in, so the blanket would have been disturbed during that process. After drawing the sections together with the draw rods, loosen the nuts and tighten them finger tight. Hope this helps.

    Glenn
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
    tweaked pictures

    brought the gamma up then added a little contrast with Irfanview ( http://www.irfanview.com/ ) a great free little photo editor.
  • Glenn , we bought the boiler knocked down

    I reread the instructions and they say that the only model that comes with a target wall is the V 903 . And the instructions do not say anything about a blanket for any model . Also , the instructions do not say to back out on the draw rods - a very important tidbit .

    We did have a little more than a trace of smoke , and the flame was hitting the back section . The burner was a packaged Carlin 301 with a 4.50 nozzle . If you are positive this boiler needs a target wall and blanket I will get them installed as soon as possible . Oh yeah , almost forgot - the instructions do not say what the proper CO2 level is , proper stack temp , or what is a good smoke reading . We had 12 % CO2 with more than a trace of smoke . Kenny did the temp but I forgot to ask what it was .

    Other than that , this boiler performs excellent on a steam system . Not an bang , knock , ping , not even a whimper . Rock steady water line . Thanks Glenn for being here for my questions .

    By the way - how big are the guys who can move one of these monsters that are preassembled ?
  • Day 3 - Up and running

    Ran beautifully while we were there . Had it steaming for about 2 hours and didn't hear a knock at all .

    I dumped alot of cleaner in the boiler and let the system steam without letting the condensate pump return the dirty water . All that time I pumped the crap out of the returns through my hose and it was still filty water . Definitely need to go back and reflush .
  • Steamhead

    That pump was returning the water fast - the pump would come on about every 5 minutes while it was steaming . Actually . while I was flushing the returns , the drain pit filled up , so I shut the drain on the return , turned power off to the boiler and pump and left the ball valve on the return off . Condensate almost immediately shot out of the vent on the tank , so I dont think the trap is restricting the flow .

    I'd like to keep that trap in there as insurance in case live steam ever found its way into that return . Unless you think it's more of a burden than a help . I appreciate your help Steamhead .
  • Noel , as you can tell

    Sometimes it takes a little more info to get things to sink into my addled brain . Are you saying all I would need is the main vent on the high returns ? There are 2 high returns teed in up high with a big vent after the tee , then the high return drops into the lower returns and goes to the tank .

    Or did you mean that the tank vent should work good for all the venting ? Thanks Noel .
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    The tank vent

    is probably what actually does most of the venting on that system. If all you have on the returns are a couple Hoffman #75s, they would be seriously undersized by themselves.

    It's possible someone removed the innards from that master trap, which would explain the free-flowing condensate.

    Nice install!

    To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Robert O'Connor_4
    Robert O'Connor_4 Member Posts: 88
    What about the 905A ?

    Glenn should that have a target wall and blanket? Its brand new with a Riello F20.I'm only able to get 11% co2 on hi fire.

    Thanks for your input.

    Ron nice clean work per usual.



  • Ron

    I have to apologize. I didn't look close enough when I read your post. I was thinking V8 boiler and not V9A. There is no target wall on the V9A boilers larger than a V903A, nor is there a chamber blanket. Be sure you set the breech damper to establish positive pressure in the firebox per specifivations in Table I on page 9 of the manual. You will also be looking for a positive 0.1" w.c. at the test plug at the breech damper. Draft after the damper should be a normal negative draft value. Tightening the draw rod nuts finger tight used to be in the manual, but is no longer in there. Sorry for the confusion as I was on my way out the door when I originally posted and just got back from CT. Take care.

    Glenn
  • Robert

    I don't have any setup data for a V905A with Riello. There is no target wall or chamber blanket. I glanced quickly while on the fly at Ron's earlier post and was thinking it was a V8 and not a V9A. What is important is that you set that burner up and adjust the breech damper to achieve a positve 0.31" w.c. in the firebox and a positive 0.1" w.c. at the breech damper. These values are listed in Table I on page 9 of the I&O manual. You will have to check with Riello on the burner setup criteria though. Hope this helps.

    Glenn
  • Robert O'Connor_4
    Robert O'Connor_4 Member Posts: 88
    My bacharach doesn't go that

    high on the positive side. Do you mean +.03 in the fire box?

    Is the Burnham V905A tested and listed tested by Burnham with the Riello F-20?
    Thank You,

    Robert
  • You can use

    a manometer to check for the +0.31 pressure. I don't believe that we have listed Riello with that boiler yet. I don't have anything in my master manual. I will find out on Monday Robert.

    Glenn
  • Robert O'Connor_4
    Robert O'Connor_4 Member Posts: 88
    Thanks

    I' appreciate you looking into this for me.

    This is a 45 day old job that was installed by another company that does not offer service.

    The Riello manual states a slightly positive pressure or draft. hmmm I guess I'll check it with my Fyrite Pro next time.

    Riello support has been responsive and impressive but I have a duty to inform the homeowner if this combination is not "listed" . That is the regulation here in Maine.



    Thanks again Glenn
  • Robert O'Connor_4
    Robert O'Connor_4 Member Posts: 88
    What have you

    learned about the listing of the v905a with the Riello.

    Riello specs call for a 3.50 60 w at 178 psi for an actuall input of 4.6gallons . How does this effect the steam rating?

    Thatks for your input.

    Robert
This discussion has been closed.