Transfer plate installation

hot_rod

looked at this job I jumped for joy at the deep open web trusses. Being a nice guy I let all the other subs go ahead of me.

Ouch, they really filled up the space. Max and I threaded 1/2" PAP above all that "stuff" Then we installed the plates, and drove the tube in. PAP works great in these RTI plates.

Here is the rig I use. Lightweight scaffold, compressor, coil nailer, and material. A plastic shot filler mallet places the tube.

When I need short pieces for fill ins I cut the whole box. Like slicing bread, it cuts clean and keeps them contained. Lots less flying schrapnel also!

How about this walnut timber frame in the office!

hot rod

Boilerpro_3

Thanks for posting the pictures, HR

It's great to see what we've been talking about via E-mail and here. Got my first RTI plates in and Tim, my helper, has put in about 2/3 rds of the tube already. Hope to get back and get it done on Tuesday so the rest of the subs can begin filling the joist bays. Did have some trouble getting the nails through the plates and discovered my comp reg. was onlyk giving about 60 psi. Switched to another comp. that is giving about 90 to 100 psi and the nails went in much better. Still having some not going in all the way.....some I bet is technique, others I think I may need a little more pressure. So far it seems the rubber mallet is quicker than a palm nailer, but will keep working on the technique. Looks like you like the mallet too. Thanks again and

Keep on steaming

Boilerpro

Unknown

Looks like an effective setup.

Bob,

Thanks for sharing that with us.

We all know your a nice guy but really, how did you let the ductwork get in before you?

How did your & Max's backs feel after that? The Senco stapler looks a little bulky.

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Mark Eatherton1

Is that saw rated...

for card board?? :-) Don't cha just LOVE IT.

OUCH, hope you had chiropractic fees included in your bid. I usually put mine under the category of "UHHHhhhh...."

Glad I'm not you. But I've got one of those coming up soon. Will post pictures when done.

Here's a look at Hell in my mechanical room. Not quite impressive as what we saw at Coors, but none the less beauty in its own way...

ME

Vernon P. James

Question

Hot Rod
I have a question for you about your installation. tried your e-mail listed but came back. Could you please e-mail me with an address I could contact you. Thanks.
Vern

hr

More info

Boilerpro, yes the nailer does need to be straight and tight against the plate to drive em home. maybe a tad more pressure. Are your plates from Radiant Engineering in Montana? They are a bit thicker than RTI.

Vernon, try the address above again, sometimes you can catch me at 417-753-3998.

Gary, the coil nailer is very light, but the round magazine does make it tough to get in around duct work. Need to design a pole type nail or stapler

ME, that looks more like heaven than hell, to this heating contractor at least! Wish I had one to mess with. We do have a new HTP rep in my area, things will change now.

hot rod

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Tony_8

are those

framing nails ?

If the joists were dimensional lumber would you/ have you tried PAP tubing ? Seems too stiff to thread through like regular Pex-B. Used PAP in a slab recently and cut time in 1/2 ! SOLD !

hr

Yes to PAP

this is Weil McLain Alumapex. I agree PAP is a much nicer tube, in most cases. With PAP I formed the loop end and shoved 30 feet of tube up and over all that duct, plumbing, etc. Try that with regular pex, especially cold, regular pex.

Yes PAP is my "go to" choice for tube.

The nails are Senco brand 3/4" coated roof nails, shot into 3/4" Advantech decking.

hot rod

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eleft(retired)_3

Alumipex

Tony,
It does work on dimensional lumber, just keep the coils large as you feed them thru the joists. Feed and fasten the loose end to the manifold. Pull the farthest loop from the uncoiled up the bay, remove the slack as you fasten the tube with the plate, then work back. You will need to keep feeding the coils between the bays as tube is needed.

al

eleft(retired)_3

Tony,
It does work on dimensional lumber, just keep the coils large as you feed them thru the joists. Feed and fasten the loose end to the manifold. Pull the farthest loop from the uncoiled up the bay, remove the slack as you fasten the tube with the plate, then work back. You will need to keep feeding the coils between the bays as tube is needed.

al

eleft(retired)_3

Alumipex

Tony,
It does work on dimensional lumber, just keep the coils large as you feed them thru the joists. Feed and fasten the loose end to the manifold. Pull the farthest loop from the uncoiled up the bay, remove the slack as you fasten the tube with the plate, then work back. You will need to keep feeding the coils between the bays as tube is needed.

al