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Homeowner looking for guidance
Joe Dog
Member Posts: 1
I have been through the site and I have learned a lot, but I need some more help. If anyone has a free few minutes, I would appreciate some input into my situation. Thanks in advance to the site and anyone that provides input.
Enclosed are pictures of the home heating system in my house. It was an oil unit, but at one time it was converted over to gas. It vents to a chimney that has its own issues I am sure, but the lining looks ok, but I would need someone to give it a better once over.
Heating system - is a one zone forced hot water system. The house piping is a one pipe system that is set up in a Diverter-Tee loop (5 radiators on 1st floor (2 are new air forced models), 1 basement radiator, and 3 radiators on the 2nd floor). Of the 3 radiators on the 2nd floor, 2 of them are on a new 1 pipe for a feed (added before my time), while the other gets fed from a 1.25 cast pipe.
Physical House is located in Boston, MA and is about 1950 square feet (480 on second floor, 860 on first, remaining in basement), there are sections of the outside walls that are without insulation. Some of the house has been updated (windows, insulation, etc) but it is a work in process. The thermostat is located in the main floor kitchen hallway. During the winter, depending on the temperature outside, the system will short cycle the furnace (it energizes both the circulator and burner at the same time). This may happen up to 5 times an hour from what I remember.
Boiler - I have had issues with the relief valve, circulator, make up water, aquastat, etc, etc... and have dealt with each accordingly. Most often the expansion tank overfills when the auto make up water valve is open, so eventually the relief valves lifts. I now ensure the system is charged once every few weeks. It runs ok, but it appears to me that it needs major service / on its way out.
Please Help - I am pondering the idea of changing the system to something more energy wise (I know the insulation and windows is the major issue), safer, physically smaller (if possible), and cheaper to run, etc. I understand that draining the system and changing the make up valve, cleaning up the piping and insulating it, etc are options, but I am thinking longer term. I would also like to zone the system (1st floor separate from the 2nd floor, this can be done, but not this season). On top of this, I am thinking about getting rid of the hot water heater and having the boiler used for domestic hot water.
I have been looking at some other sites (crownboiler.com, etc) and see a lot of things, but I would like some input into sizing the unit (with the idea of eventually having 3 zones (1st floor, 2nd floor, domestic hot water), precautions, etc.
Once again, thanks in advance.
Enclosed are pictures of the home heating system in my house. It was an oil unit, but at one time it was converted over to gas. It vents to a chimney that has its own issues I am sure, but the lining looks ok, but I would need someone to give it a better once over.
Heating system - is a one zone forced hot water system. The house piping is a one pipe system that is set up in a Diverter-Tee loop (5 radiators on 1st floor (2 are new air forced models), 1 basement radiator, and 3 radiators on the 2nd floor). Of the 3 radiators on the 2nd floor, 2 of them are on a new 1 pipe for a feed (added before my time), while the other gets fed from a 1.25 cast pipe.
Physical House is located in Boston, MA and is about 1950 square feet (480 on second floor, 860 on first, remaining in basement), there are sections of the outside walls that are without insulation. Some of the house has been updated (windows, insulation, etc) but it is a work in process. The thermostat is located in the main floor kitchen hallway. During the winter, depending on the temperature outside, the system will short cycle the furnace (it energizes both the circulator and burner at the same time). This may happen up to 5 times an hour from what I remember.
Boiler - I have had issues with the relief valve, circulator, make up water, aquastat, etc, etc... and have dealt with each accordingly. Most often the expansion tank overfills when the auto make up water valve is open, so eventually the relief valves lifts. I now ensure the system is charged once every few weeks. It runs ok, but it appears to me that it needs major service / on its way out.
Please Help - I am pondering the idea of changing the system to something more energy wise (I know the insulation and windows is the major issue), safer, physically smaller (if possible), and cheaper to run, etc. I understand that draining the system and changing the make up valve, cleaning up the piping and insulating it, etc are options, but I am thinking longer term. I would also like to zone the system (1st floor separate from the 2nd floor, this can be done, but not this season). On top of this, I am thinking about getting rid of the hot water heater and having the boiler used for domestic hot water.
I have been looking at some other sites (crownboiler.com, etc) and see a lot of things, but I would like some input into sizing the unit (with the idea of eventually having 3 zones (1st floor, 2nd floor, domestic hot water), precautions, etc.
Once again, thanks in advance.
0
Comments
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boston heat problems
the problems you are having are all solvable look up a local contractor in the section on the right side of this page its hard to diagnois problems over the internet
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
You have a lot of good ideas
and that system can work very well when properly set up. But you really need a pro to make it happen. As Ed says, you should be able to find someone in the Boston area using the Find a Contractor page of this site. You won't regret it.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Valve stuck open???
My hot water baseboard heat is warm even without the thermostat calling for heat and without the circulator running.
Could this be due to what I think is called a "gravity check valve" stuck open? The few plumbers/heating mechanics I've spoken to are not familiar with this. The valve in question is labeled "Watts No. 2000" - it has two inlets and one outlet and what looks like an adjustment knob on top.
If this is as I suspect and I do replace this, how does one adjust it? Thanks for your help.
0 -
Screw the knob all the way in.
It IS mounted with the knob or screw pointed straight up, isn't it?
If it still leaks by, it needs cleaning, repair, or replacement.
My experience has been that it recurs, unless it gets replaced. I prefer those iron ones to soldered ones.
Noel0
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