cutting clay pipe

Mark J Strawcutter

I need to trim the ends of some broken 6in glazed clay drain pipe as part of making a repair.

Any suggestions from the plumbers among us as to the best way to cut it?

Mark

bigugh_4

clay pipe cutting

obtain a soil pipe cutter. (wheeler brand, ratchet type) and just do it. If you have it loose upon the ground a cold chisel will do it also. In place ,as in a repair situation the mechanical soil pipe cutter is almost a must. Good luck

Mad Dog

I don't know if he is gonna go out and buy or rent one, Gary

not cheap and you need a little expertise to work it . - I don't have to tell you. I've used a large cutting wheel on a big grinder. Its downright dangerous, but you won't get a cleaner cut. Better wear goggles and watch you fingers, Mark...Mad Dog

To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

heretic

Me too-grinder

9 inch angle grinder with masonry wheel.
Skilsaw with masonry wheel would probably work too.

pfitter_22

Clay tile

My preferences would be:

1, Target Saw, Gas or electric, with Masonry blade.

2; Grinder, with masonry blade.

3; 3 lb hammer with soil pipe chisel

4; 3 lb hammer with flooring chisel.

5; 12" or larger cresent wrench. tighten it on to the end og tile tap inward downward Breaking tile inward) on wrench with 3 lb hammer.. Carefully go around pipe this way.

When using hammer and chisel go around with light taps several times scoring the tile.

good luck

p

Mark J Strawcutter

soil pipe cutter

Thanks for the feedback guys.

The sewer authority folks suggested either a soil pipe cutter or a reciprocating saw with carbide blade. I used a cutter briefly about 20 years ago and can get one at the local rental place. Since the pipe is underground I'll probably go that route as a first try. Any hints on correct use of the cutter would be appriciated.

If that fails, I'll probably dig back to the nearest joints (looks like 2ft sections), remove them and work on them on the surface.

Encountered the (undocumented) pipe while digging up a bush at the back of my yard. Seems to be a private storm drain running thru a private/unopened alley that carries roof downspout flow from 6-8 houses.

The sewer authority people were very helpful. Checked their maps, and sent a camera truck out - "we'll be there in about 10 minutes" - to scope it out.

Partial blockage kept them from verifying which main it connects to, so they scheduled a dye test to make sure it's not feeding in to the sanitary sewer - although it didn't smell like it :-)

Mark

Starch

Soil pipe cutter works..

...well, just go slow with it. You are right, they are most likely 24" joints, so you can always dig back a couple feet and go to the next joint if needed. Fernco makes a rubber coupling to go from clay tile to SDR-35 plastic or schedule 40, if your local authority allows them, and you can splice a repair piece in.

Good luck,
Starch

[Deleted User]

just use a 4'' diamond grinder

and it will be quick work...alot of old clay has ''spider webbing'' type cracks in it and if it does you will most certainly know with a soil pipe cutter...good diamond 4'' wheel, cut the top off the pipe then cut thru the bottom from the inside...you will say gezz, that was easy..

Mark J Strawcutter

fernco

The sewer authority suggested/recommended using a clay-to-plastic fernco coupling.

SDR stands for Sewer Drain and ?

Which is heavier - SDR 35 or schedule 40?

Mark

Jim_22

soil pipe cutters

As Starch said, just take it slow. Get the cutter on loose and roll it around to get it straight. I crank it down a couple of turns and wait 15-20 seconds. Then I give it another turn and wait again. Keep repeating,eventually, you get to the right amount of pressure and it will pop during the waiting period. If the pipe is in good shape with no fractures in it, you will get a nice clean cut. If there are cracks in the pipe from the excavation damage then saw cutting is probably the way to go. Also, I believe SDR-35 and Sched.40 are the same wall thickness in sizes above 4"

Good Luck

Murph'_4

here's one on e-bay

Now if you look closely you will see how much a used one cost and the price of new , may give you understanding on why the pros charge "so much" money. This is one of a hundred tools that companies need to buy to perform thier jobs everyday.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3191&item=3150244970&sspagename=Merch06


MJ



(and to think everyone cries foul when HD puts a boiler on the floor)

[Deleted User]

schedule 40 is thicker (nm)

Larry (from OSHA)

are you digging deep?

By any chance, are you opening a trench 5 or more feet deep? If so, please make sure you slope it correctly for the type of soil or provide some shoring to prevent a collapse. Work safely and make sure you and your co-workers go home to your families every night. I've seen the results of not doing it right, and it isn't pretty.

Good luck
Larry

Larry (from OSHA)

are you digging deep?

By any chance, are you opening a trench 5 or more feet deep? If so, please make sure you slope it correctly for the type of soil or provide some shoring to prevent a collapse. Work safely and make sure you and your co-workers go home to your families every night. I've seen the results of not doing it right, and it isn't pretty.

Good luck

Larry

Mark J Strawcutter

about a foot

or maybe 18in down.

No way you're gonna find me in a ditch deeper than my waist, reinforcing or not.

Mark

Mark Hunt

where'd ya go?

> been watching long enough to know that you

> haven't paid a pro in 25 years!

>

> You

> know...........I never missed an episode of

> "Quincy", maybe I should become a forensic

> scientist.

>

> BTW STRAW, my business IS

> computers!

>

> hahahahahahahahahahaha