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Boiler won't take water

ceikey_2
ceikey_2 Member Posts: 6
I took apart the valves at the gauge glass and there is no blockage. I opened up a union at the lower part of the boiler where the return and water supply line enter the boiler and then poured water in at the gauge glass. It does come out at that union. I thought this meant that there was not any blockage inside the boiler. I closed up the union and tried to fill it up with water again. I never got any water at the gauge glass again. I opened the main drain (at the same level as where the return lines come in, just opposite side of boiler) again to see how much water I had added. I had put about 7 gallons in so there was plenty of water to register on the glass. The water is not coming out on the floor so I can't believe there is a leak anywhere. I have to think the water is going up into the return instead of into the boiler, at least the majority of the water. If the boiler is completely empty do I have to fill it from the top for the first time? Since I know that the water goes in from when I added it at the gauge glass, should I try filling it from there. I'm not understanding why I can pour it in from the glass and it drains at the bottom, but when I add it from the bottom it won't go up into the boiler.

Comments

  • ceikey_2
    ceikey_2 Member Posts: 6
    Boiler won't take water

    I had 2 radiators out all summer and recently reinstalled them. I noticed mid-summer that the gauge was not showing any water. I added water, but the gauge never showed any water even now that the rads are reinstalled. All the water is going up into the return lines. I'm assuming there is air in the boiler so the water can't get in. Is there a vent or something that needs to be open when I fill it? Does it need to be vacuumed out to get rid of the air bubble?
  • If you are looking at a gage glass on a steamer,

    It sounds like both gage glass valves aren't wide open; or are plugged up.

    Noel
  • ceikey_2
    ceikey_2 Member Posts: 6
    yes

    Yes it is a steam system with gauge glass. The valves aren't closed because I haven't touched them. I'll have to take it apart and replace the valves if they are clogged. Is this common? Thanks for the info!
  • yes

    With that, it is also common for the low water cut off to be in the same condition, which is dangerous to the building and often fatal to the boiler it is connected to.

    I'd have a serviceman check the whole system, including the steam side controls. He will probably lower the boiler water level and then remove the valve stems to get access to poke those valves clean, then wash them out.

    Then he'll make sure your boiler is safe.

    Noel
  • ceikey_2
    ceikey_2 Member Posts: 6
    blow-off

    It's not just the gauge glass, when I open the blow-off valve, no water comes out either. Could the low water shutoff be clogging the system somewhere before the gauge glass and the blow-off? Thus water is not getting up to the level of the blow-off and gauge glass.
  • I think it's time for a look

    If you are putting in gallons of water and it isn't showing up in the glass or at the drain valve, you have a serious problem (along the lines of a buried leak, or a very plugged system) that needs a pair of eyes on a person that understands the safety controls.

    Be careful, and don't run it till the glass has water in it with the valves open and clear. Then test the water level control (LWCO) and the other safetys.

    Noel
  • ceikey_2
    ceikey_2 Member Posts: 6
    ps...

    This is an old, old combination one-pipe two-pipe system. It looks like it was originally a coal burner that was converted to a gas burner at some point.
  • Doug Wagoner
    Doug Wagoner Member Posts: 78
    It sounds like to me from you description

    that the water is being fed into the return line. If this is the case rust has 'healed' shut the return pipe at the water line. I was called by a heating friend that had the same problem. He had filled the boiler by filling the returns, the radiators and the steam lines back to the boiler until the sight glass showed half full. When he fired the system the boiler would get hot and nothing else. He could not understand. After we removed the rust seal from the return, gallons and gallons of water ran from the system. Even if you get the rust seal removed you may be operating a time bomb unless you are sure all the safeties are working. Do you know how to check them?
  • ceikey_2
    ceikey_2 Member Posts: 6


    First, I did disconnect a union at the return and turned on the water supply and water runs out fine. I called a contractor in my area from this website. I told him the problem, and he did not think I had enough water in the boiler to register, even with 7 gallons. I filled it up last night and it seems OK. I don't think there is any way I put enough water in to fill up the whole system, rads and all. As far as safeties, I think all I have is a lwco. It worked fine last winter because I let the water get too low a couple of times. I would still like to check it though if you have any suggestions on how to do so. Thanks.
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