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Training Tips for Winter
Anyone else got some visuals you do when first going in on a no heat call???
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Comments
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Diagnosing the Problem
The diagnosis of the problem involves deciding which specific part of the circuit/system may be involved in the problem(s). Is it a control problem or is it a system problem. Example: the relief valve is blowing, could be a faulty electrical component not shutting the system off, could be a run away boiler (valve will not shut off). Could be a faulty relief valve, pressure reducing valve, diaphragm tank, or tankless coil leaking into boiler system (city water pressure). As was indicated when identifying the symptoms in our last discussion, the problem(s) may be isolated to a relatively small section of the circuit/system. At this point one of the most important tools used for troubleshooting is a diagram of the electrical circuit/system. Every good technician if he or she finds no diagram on the job should be able to create one. We do this in our training, in fact I required all my techs to memorize and be able to draw from memory all the internals of all the relays.
Attempting to troubleshoot an electrical circuit/system without a drawing (schematic diagram or ladder diagram) of the circuit/system and a multimeter is a waste of time. Even if the general control sequence is known, it is likely the order of the devices in the circuit, wire numbers or colors, and other information necessary to be thorough in the troubleshooting procedure will be unknown.
Although some electricians are known not to use a drawing and a meter in their troubleshooting, it is an indisputable fact they could be even better at their job if the use of these tools was added to their knowledge and ability in troubleshooting.
There is an difference between an electricain and a techncian. Now do not misunderstand me I know some great electricains who are both. I also know some great plumbers/fitters who are not such great technicians. The again I know some who are. You have to come to the problem with a full bag and be able in this day and age to do it all in order to be successful as a troubleshooter.
How about some input on VISUAL CHECKS you should follow on every job. What do some of you look for??? Do you use all of your senses when entering a premises sight, sound, feel and all the others that you may have devloped over the years.0 -
visual checks
dis-colored wires at the ends, and on the (molly) block (?) connectors. any type of rust/corrosion/oil that would prevent good contact. tugs and watch terminals for loose fitting spades, pinched wires and loose wire nuts to name a few!! undo wire nuts to see wires may be broke and insulation holding them in.
Murph'0 -
Let us take a Thermocouple
some visual checks before changing or diagnosing a thermocouple problem. Thermocouples now days are mostly used on 24 volt systems with a vent damper to stay within AFUE ratings. If you have a vent damper and a standing pilot - look inside the damper there should be a hole in the damper blade, if not remove the plug. The plug is for electric ignition systems.
Let us now check the following:
1. Is the pilot lit?
2. Is the pilot clean (no yellow)?
3. Is the pilot hitting the upper 1/2" to 3/8" of the thermocouple?
4. Are the connections tight?
5. Is the tip damaged - welded - if so it is probably also the case that the tip is glowing "cherry red". Adjust the pilot to a soft blue flame not "roaring or lifting".
6. Is the lead all scorched and burned? This would indicate a combustion problem of some kind.
A fact 85% of the time pilot outageproblems are a direct result of thermocouple failure - good start clean the pilot and replace the thermocouple. What about the other 15% of the time. I will address that another time, it requires some taking of readings with a multi meter.
By the way do not use cheap thermocouples: Honeywell and Johnson are the best for reliability and durability.0 -
Check
the circuit interupter.
On/Off??
Mark H
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
First steps on Pilot /Thermocouple
things to check.0 -
HOW DO YOU......
Adjust the pilot on a water heater?/
Murph'0 -
Murph - water htr pilots
most of them are not adjustable with out changing the orifice. Most water heater controls are total regulation pilot and main gas. When you adjust the regulator you are adjusting both so it is really not a good idea.
Older water heater controls had a screw on the front that you could remove the cap and adjust the screw to adjust the pilot. They did away with that several years back.0 -
LED's
In my eagerness to get up to my armpits in diagnosis, I sometimes pull the blower door just before realizing an LED was in there trying to help me out. Too late after interrupting power. Sometimes the fault will repeat in a timely fashion...sometimes not. These little jewels can be real timesavers.
An interesting tidbit I picked up at a Goodman school concerning wire colors. Goodman starts with white insulated wire. It's cheaper for them to dye it than to purchase the different colors.
Larry0 -
sequence
You gotta know the sequence of operation before you can troubleshoot anything electrical.(That goes from lights to 20 zone control systems on a 6 segment modular boiler system and beyond). If you dont know it, you can't determine where its stopping. I check if there is an error code, and find out what it is, then I run it through a cycle. I also talk to the homeowner. They know the usual sights/sounds etc.. and LISTENING can really help pinpoint the problem.
Mike0 -
Water heater pilots
The water heater controls I take apart, mostly Rrobertshaw have a tiny little regulator just for the piltot, about the size of a dime. They are under where the old adjustable pilot screw used to be. I think the pilot is fed from the main gas supply, I think the regulator that's built into the gas cock is just for the main burner. I encourage people I train to take junk controls apart and see if they can picture the gas flow. Makes one appreciate the engineering that goes into what we see and take for granted every day.0 -
is there not
a spot where you could drill out and get to the adjusting screw?? I think it used to be marked, but that could've been something else!!
Murph'0 -
You Sir, are an exceptional teacher
"Attempting to troubleshoot an electrical circuit/system without a drawing (schematic diagram or ladder diagram) of the circuit/system and a multimeter is a waste of time..."
AND if you've made changes to the "standard" schematic that came with the boiler or other device, draw your own and post it just as prominently as the original!
If you understand how to wire it and know how to read schematics you shouldn't have a problem drawing one that most anyone can understand.
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