hot water heating problems

Loran Mahlum

I have a cabin with several zones of in-slab hot water heat. One of the zones has a small leak, apparently from experiencing a freeze, although the lines had been blown out at fall closedown. No water is apparent on the slab surface. The lines are 3/4" black poly with a closed system using a 50 gal. water heater. Pressure does not exceed 12 psi. Is there any product on the market that could be used in this system to stop off that leak? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.

Mark Hunt

Sorry


you're system is not servicable.

I assume you have already contacted the contractor that installed this system?

How in the world did you let your self get sadled with a black poly system?

Mark H

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John@Reliable_4

Black poly in slab oh no!

I think you have two options 1) shut off that zone. 2) jack hammer. Sorry, hope this helps. John@Reliable

Mark Eatherton1

Surgery...

with a jack hammer... Been there, done that, gotta do it again real soon.

Not only how did you get stuck with black poly, but is the water heating doing dual duty (DHW and space heat)?

I'll let DY respond :-)

Amazing what some people will do for heat...

ME

hot_rod

closed vs open

You mentioned that this is a "closed" system and that pressure is being held at 12 PSI max. If accurate, you are obtaining your domestic potable hot water from another source, which is a good thing. You should have a backflow preventer isolating the hydronic system from your potable one.

Given that this is a slab application, you can try this: Turn the unitrol aquastat down to "vacation" setting or its lowest setting until the slab is completely cooled off. Once done, turn the unitrol up all the way, which should approach 160 F. Have a mop & bucket at the ready. Turn up the thermostat to energize the circulator and wait a few minutes. Wet mop the concrete floor and the tubing will "appear" as if the entire floor has been x-rayed due to drying out where the tubing is first. The leak will appear as a splotch.

That's where you'll need to break up the flooring to attempt repairing the tubing. Black poly, as mentioned above, is sub-standard fare for a radiant system, but that's what you've got & what you'll have to try working with. If all else fails, there are some great radiant products designed to be installed over concrete floors (some only 1/2" thick) that accept high quality PEX with an oxygen barrier.

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ScottMP

or

Get a Cat !

The joke is the cat will sleep where the warm leak is. I think Dave gave you some good advise, give it a try.

Scott

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hot_rod

You could try

one of the hydronic system leak sealers. I have used Fernox brand. Ocassionally it works, just depends on how much of, or how many splits you have.

Either way, a plan B would be good to start on. Maybe an over lay radiant, baseboard, panel radiators, or a ceiling radiant retro fit.

Or a wood stove

hot rod