overhead oil line?

GW

Hi guys. I have two jobs where it would be really nice if I could run an oil line overhead. Are there any basic rules of thumb? check valve? This is just a basic one pipe single stage deal, nothing out of the ordinary.

Thanks,

gary

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Ruthe Jubinville

overhead oil line

I've been doing it for years.First one was about 20 years ago and the inspector thought it was a good idea even though he hadn't seen one before.

GW

OK

Jerry, that was a technical question... Can you fill me in on what I need to do to keep the oil from falling down?

Gary

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John@Reliable_4

Gary, heres acouple of things about overhead oil lines

1)Only use flare fittings. 2) NEVER use a check valve on an oil line repeat never, due to pressure, which can blow pump seal at shut down. 3) We use copper 3/8" clips just like ones for 1/2" copper pipe 4) try to keep run under 50' in total 5) I use an hand pump to purge line, then prime pump as normal. 6) Now for an neat trick, use a vacuum gauge on pump and jump so burner will run with out locking out, shut off oil at tank and pull a big vac on line once it stops open prime fitting this will get rid of any and all air in system (just like in heating, oil lines get"micro bubbles") I learned this from Bruce Marshall@ Suntec and find it does work. Hope this helps John@Reliable

Bob Bona_4

bad idea

and avoid it if possible. This invites lift/pull issues for the pump, possible airlock/foaming, service headaches, vibration/resonance issues that can transmit through the house, etc.

If there is ABSOLUTELY no alternative, and your inspector approves it, then encase the line in electrical carflex, and use a Tigerloop at the burner to keep the pump primed. No check valves.

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Mark_17

Bob,
What is a "Tigerloop"? I don't know a lot of stuff, but I've been taught to always run a return line when running overhead, but you can't beat keeping things low. I'd rather have a visible oil leak than an invisible air leak, soot and call-backs.

Dave Palmer_3

do it

like that and no problems, we overhead with coated line for strength no rattles or noise. Good ideas John ,Dave

Richard D._2

Over head

Tiger loops are good but not cheap.. If you must go overhead use no couplings and what I do is make a small pig tail @ the tank fir-o-matic and bring it down to the floor,I figure the weight of the oil in tank helps keeps it from draining back...It works well for me and sounds good to:)..Prefer NO Check valves as they are band aids for a problem...As for added vacume they add less then 1/2" of vac...but they do stick and foul up...No excess wear on the pump that I have seen ...Good luck Richsrd

Bob Bona_4

The Loop

can be found under search "Tigerholm ab". I know there is a better link but I can't find it right now. Your local Sid Harvey's or other oil burner part suppliers should have them. Eliminates the need for a return line and all the issues that come with it. Since you will only be pulling the nozzle GPH with the one line, possible noise problems will go away. priming benefits of a 2 line set up without the drawbacks...

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Glenn Harrison

Tigerloop Links

You can go to Tigerholm.com and click on Products, and then Tigerloop, and you can also download a pdf file of the instruction sheet at Tigerloop install instructions .

John@Reliable_4

Bob, I was a BIG tigerloop fan til..........

I started getting noise problems and leakers. We do allot of slab houses and with new systems we must install an new oil line from tank in garage thru attic down inside a closet and then thru a wall into kitchen then finely to burner about 55’ in total. Tiger loops were a dream to solve our problems on these installs. After about 2 years the problems started. We now use ½” line and purge like I said in other post, so far this has worked great, hopefully I can say this in two years. I think tiger loops do have a place but just going to ½” line can solve allot of problems. John@Reliable