Radiant in Basement

Charles Garrod

I am building a ranch house in Lower Delaware state, aprx 3,800 sq ft, hydronic geothermal heat/cool source. We plan to use 7/8" sub-flooring with the snap-in pap tubing in alum plates over the sub floor and under bamboo flooring. My question is that we are planning to heat the basement with a radiant system that will be in the poured concrete floor, 12" thick. We are planning for a wine storage room, how far away from the wine room should be installing the pap tube circuits. And finally, is there any real benefit for having radiant in the garage area

Charles Garrod

Radiant in Basement

I am building a ranch house in Lower Delaware state, aprx 3,800 sq ft, hydronic geothermal heat/cool source. We plan to use 7/8" sub-flooring with the snap-in pap tubing in alum plates over the sub floor and under bamboo flooring. My question is that we are planning to heat the basement with a radiant system that will be in the poured concrete floor, 12" thick. We are planning for a wine storage room, how far away from the wine room should be installing the pap tube circuits. And finally, is there any real benefit for having radiant in the garage area

hot_rod

Did you say

a 12" thick concrete slab? Oh my! Why so thick? That would be a very slow responding slab for a radiant heating system. A 10 foot by ten foot section of a 12" slab would require just over 3.5 yards of concrete! Or 14,000 lbs worth. Around $245 per 100 square feet of mud.

Even commercial applications rarely go above 6" slabs, for heavy equipment loads.

If you really need that much thickness I would encourage you to float a radiant product on top to eliminate some mass, as it would take weeks to rev that much slab up.

I'd probably stay a foot away from the perimeter of wine room, with any radiant tube, if it will be chilled.

hot rod

steve gates

I've done a 12

> a 12" thick concrete slab? Oh my! Why so thick?

> That would be a very slow responding slab for a

> radiant heating system. A 10 foot by ten foot

> section of a 12" slab would require just over 3.5

> yards of concrete! Or 14,000 lbs worth. Around

> $245 per 100 square feet of mud.

>

> Even

> commercial applications rarely go above 6" slabs,

> for heavy equipment loads.

>

> If you really

> need that much thickness I would encourage you to

> float a radiant product on top to eliminate some

> mass, as it would take weeks to rev that much

> slab up.

>

> I'd probably stay a foot away from

> the perimeter of wine room, with any radiant

> tube, if it will be chilled.

>

> hot rod

steve gates

I've done a 12\"

and a 10". The 12 took a couple a days to warm up if i remember right the 10 only one nite. The 10's pump was wired wrong and never shutoff till we came in(went from a dark gray to white).

Once on the 12 the system shut down on lwco while at one of Dan's seminars. It was off four days in a cold april and only lost 2deg. It was thick for very heavy equip(d-9) on rails.

Dale

12 inch

In northern Wisc. up by lake Superior some of the elect coops have a dual fuel elect rate that they will give for heat and hot water if you back up so they can drop load for a few hours. One way is the 12 inch basement floor with elect radiant pads. Sure it takes a long time to heat up in Oct. but it stays hot for a week if the power goes out. People seem to like the system. And, given the cost of lakefront homes the concrete is really a pretty minimal cost.

Unknown

radiant in garage

Charles,

I would never pour a slab without radiant. Benefits in garag:

1. Snow will melt off car quick AND dry!!!
2. Warm car in the morning, easier starts.
3. Open door, air gets cool, close door room warms immeidately.
4. Bring in cold car, mass heats car quick.
5. If your a mechanic, reduced sore knees, reduced sore feet, reduced occurance of hemorrhoids.

Shall I continue?

wheels