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anode rod's
Geo_2
Member Posts: 76
My own water heater is getting a little long in the tooth and we all know a basic water heater comes w/ one anode rod and many companies like ruud/rheem sell the small ( 12")anode rod's w/ the 10 year up-grade kit but I have found the full size(48") anode/nipple combo's online and was thinking of putting one on the inlet and one on the outlet and feeding the cold to the bottom... Do you think I would be making a "super" water heater or just wasting the money.
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Comments
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W/H
You couldn't put one on the hot side b/c you get your hot water from the top of the tank. If the heater is too far gone, you could replace the annode rod and change the dip tube, this could be done by either getting a new dip tube, or like i do, flare a piece of 1/2 inch copper and cut it to size just short of the tank, and install it(cold side). Dont forget to drill a hole up high on the dip tube. Chris0 -
Why?
> Dont forget to drill a hole up
> high on the dip tube.
Arlene0 -
Anode's
Perfection tube makes an anode rod for the hot out let of a water heater. The nipple is galvenized male by male NPT one end threads into the top of the tank and one end is exposed so as to adapt a 3/4" NPT female X copper adapter. The anode is attached to the nipple and has a hole through it so the hot water can get out of the tank. The galvinized nipple is lined with a plastic protector that prolongs its life.
We use this on our oil fired glass lined water heater, and we also install an additional anode rod in the rear of all off our tanks as extra protection or we install an extra thick rod that will last longer. We have found that anode rods are rarely replaced or even checked too insure they are intact. Once the anode rod has deteriorated, the oxygen starts to attack the microcracks in most glass lined tanks unless, the proceedure used to glass/enamale the inside of the tank is of higher technology. If the flow coat proceedure is used it will ensure the complete coating of all surfaces on the inside of the tank. This will insure no micro cracks or exposed surface is present. The result is a tank that will last longer and provide a service free appliance.
One should check and replace the anode rod with a factory or aftermarket anode on a yearly basis. The quality of water will determine the frequincy of replacemant. TDS (Total Disolved Solids) are the cause in most waterheater failures. Heat Transfer Products uses this technology in our glass lined tank's to insure superior quality. munchkinman. (:~0 -
Hi Arline !!
Nadine said HI;=)
I know you know this one! The anti-siphon hole prevents a heater from being sucked dry . kill the water main,open a lower fixture for repairs , run to the orange store for parts and return to more broken stuff...;+( also the rudd extra anode is 24" and is made to be installed on the hot side..paul0 -
yea ..what he said....nm
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HI Paul see you in Denver hey?
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dip tube hole
Must be within 6" of the top of the tank. It's function, is to keep the tube from siphoning the tank should there be an interuption in the cold water supply to the tank. If the tube has no antisiphoning hole, then a vacuum relief valve must be installed to break any siphoning effect.0 -
you know it
HO0 -
Hi Paul & Nadine
My husband & son are traveling with me to Swansea this week so you can meet them.
I haven't even figured out where Swansea is!
Thanks for your help with the dip tube question.
See you soon,
Arlene0 -
Anode rods
Hey Paul, Nadine , and Arlene, I haven't posted in forever. Good to see you're all alive and well.
I'm thinking of tickets to III just so I'm not the 'local boy'. Denver ought to be pretty then.
I've never heard of a hole in an anode rod. Live and learn. When I installed a new DHW at my pa's they had rotten egg smell from their HW. They have a well and softener. Removed the rod and removed the smell. Live and learn again
Go Big or Go Home
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Hole
The hole goes in the dip tube, not the anode rod.Chris0 -
anode rods
Don't you guys us vacuum breakers on your tanks??? By code here in Maine, all hot water storage vessels are required to have vacuum breakers installed on the cold water inlet a min. of 6" above the tank. I wish codes were more uniform in the region. While working in CT years ago, I found that they don't use electrical firomatics and pipe all oil tanks with two inch????
C'est la vie!!!
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Anodes aluminum vrs magnesium
We used to use aluminum and would from time to time get complaints that the water would smell like rotten egg. We went to a magnesium rod to avoid this condition and provide an anode rod that would last longer. When the smell of rotten egg is present in most cases it is the sulfur content in the water and /or a bacteria that hot water does not kill and sticks to the inside wall of the tank and builds up over time. One must clorienate the tank with one gallon mixed with a full tank and let it stand for a day flush well and return to service. This will cleanse the tank and the smell will go away or decrease if the sulfur content is low enough and does not come out of solution.0 -
I thought it was the magnesium rod that made the smell like rotten egg's and switching to aluminum helped, but anyway that was not what I asked... simply put would having (3) anode rod's vastly prolong the life of the tank or do you think it would be a waste of money??0 -
Tight
Getting an anode rod out of a tank is difficult. A 1 - 1/16 " 6 point socket and breaker bar with a cheater at minimum, a geared torque multiplier works the best but they are very pricy. I think you could prolong tank life with anode change. Steel under ground systems have anodes added as they wear out.0 -
Tight
Getting an anode rod out of a tank is difficult. A 1 - 1/16 " 6 point socket and breaker bar with a cheater at minimum, a geared torque multiplier works the best but they are very pricy. I think you could prolong tank life with anode change. Steel under ground systems have anodes added as they wear out.0 -
Yes, it is magnesium which is more reactive with sulfur and causes the bad smell. It is also a better sacrificial anode. Aluminum doesn't react with sulfur as much, and if the water is not very aggressive then aluminum could be fine.
If the water is more aggressive, then multiple anode rods might help. Also, more than one rod means they won't need replacing as often. It all depends on the water. I just replaced an aluminum anode in a 25 year old water heater. It was at the replacement point - 1/3 of it had corroded away, but it still had some life left in it. The key is the water - medium hard, and mildly alkaline. Not very aggressive.
What you don't want to do is to mix a magnesium rod with an aluminum rod in the same tank. The magnesium rods have a bump in the middle of the cap; that's how you can tell them apart.
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no... the other hole
IT looka like dis ...0 -
no..the other hole
and it looka like dis err sorry for the large size ..0 -
Swansea just
around the corner from my training center in good old Warren, RI.0
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