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radiant heat in a Monolithic Dome
Nancy Copeland
Member Posts: 3
I have been getting mixed messages about radiant heat for my dome and hoped someone here could help me. The monolithic dome is one of the most efficient homes you can build and it doesn't take much to heat one. It has effective R-60 in the walls that have an airform,3" plus of polyeurathane ins.,rebar and 4" of 9sack shotcrete on the inside. I have two floors and was told that I really didn't need a heat source for the second floor because the heat will rise through the second floor and the concrete. The main floor is 1385 sq ft and the second is 1273sq ft. If I put vents through the second floor would that be enough for heat transfer? I also have south facing windows. I am trying to find good heat that won't cost me the $10,000 bid so far.
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Comments
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A reputable heating contractor, like one you could find here
at Find A Contractor will be able to do a heat loss and tell you what you need to do. Radiant sounds like it would be ideal for you application. Go ahead put in your zip code and you'll be on the right track keep us posted. Mad Dog
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
air flow
I know what type of dome house you are building. One of the concerns that the builder and home owner had, was to have air movement in all rooms. Expecially closets and low traffic rooms. Depending upon the goegraphic area you are located in, moisture and mold issues may arrise.
The next one I would do would include radient infloor and Unico high velocity for the air conditioning and air flow.
You are right about the low amount of heat loss in a dome home. Insulate under the slab, foundation and even outside the walls along the perimeter.
wd0 -
Dome heat
Kudos to you for building green. Most don't! Without seeing floor plans it's difficult to tell how much convective heat will rise to the second floor. Is the first floor a slab! Radiant floor heat will do the job weel for the first floor, but radiant floors don't convect well even with 'open' floor plans. With that type of insulating value it seems you need 'point contact radiation' in the various rooms with proper control to realize the energy efficiency of your home.
You could probably heat it with a wood stove and a grate for heat to rise to the second floor. You'll have hot and cold spots for sure.
Spend the money now with a qualified contractor and you'll be counting your savings and blessing your comfort for years to come.0 -
Radiant Dome
We live in a geodesic dome home that we built ourselves. Initially we heated with a Russian Stove (Huge radiant monster)but switched to a radiant slab 3 years ago. The dome has a 1800 sf ground floor with 800 sf upstairs. Half of the dome is open to the ~23 foot high ceiling. Our radiant slab is only about 300 square feet in area but easily heats the whole house. My wife and I installed the system and couldn't be happier. We have a small Dunkirk boiler (36,000 BTUs net) and fuel use is minimal. A 40 gallon buffer tank is used to prevent short cycling. The dome has R-25 insulation and heats very easily.
Write me directly if you wish any more information.
We love radiant heat!
Hugh Mason0 -
thanks
Thank you all for your input. It helps to get a variety of opinions. I have a bid that includes Rehau pex pipe from Germany- does anyone have a say on this? The fellow said that it was better than Wirsbo pex.0 -
Buffer
YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!
ONLY way to eliminate the need is with proportional control of flow AND emission.0 -
Either one is fine.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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ok
rehau is no better than Wisrbo but I believe their fitting system to be better. just my opinion.0 -
I have to agree with the Rehau fitting superiority
When you squeeze that barrell over the fitting, that is a fitting for life.0 -
stapled or wire mesh?
Ok you guys, your doing great in helping me out so far, so how about preferences in the installation of the pex pipe. Stapled to the blue foam board or attached to mesh before concrete is poured? And if you staple, do you need to use a fiber concrete? I just want to make sure I wont have any future problems0 -
mesh
always. fibered concrete is not all it's cracked up to be plus you can get your tubing off the bottom for a little faster response if you need it.0 -
Mesh
and consider using some continous strip chairs (with runners) to keep the tube up into the slab. It's worth the extra couple bucks.
I like the fiber mesh also, even with the wire mesh, although getting a nice finish with all that "hair" takes a bit more work. I feel the fiber does limit the travel of small cracks. I have done some concrete counter tops and noticed the effect of fiber in these thin pours, I'm a believer!
hot rod
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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