Glycol

mp1969

It looks like it started at the Braukman air eliminator and went down the side of the Taco air scoop onto the combination fill valve/pressure reducer. This is a home about five years old in the Northshore area of metro Milwaukee (yes the water in this area is always suspect and something I did not even consider) I now work for a service and repair company that does approximately 12,000 service calls a year and many are water quality related. Would you suggest water analysis prior to refilling and possibly a ph test?
Can't tell if it has an oxygen barrier due to no exposed pex tubing. My guess is that it doesn't since they used a domestic water heater for the heat source. Wisconsin does not allow this yet (code wise) I will check the heater for sludge before I refill.
I don't do in floor on a steady basis and now will be doing repairs/ service instead of installs.Your input is greatly appreciated and your exposure to these problems certainly helps those of us that only occasionly encounter such problems. Its a win win situation with " The Wall" and it is a great resource for those of us in the industry.
Thanks again!

MP 1969

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mp1969

Glycol

Have come across a system that obviuosly used automotive anti-freeze versus hydronic friendly anti-freeze. Several of the components are corroded beyond recognition. Any suggestions as to how to properly flush out the old anti freeze and replace it with the formulated hydronic solution. Heat source is a 50 gallon gas fired A.O. Smith dedicated domestic heater, piping is pex in the sun room floor (approx. 300 sq. ft.)with 3/4 copper supply and return lines.
Any sugeestions will be appreciated.

Thanks! MP 1969



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Drew_2

glygol

Doesn't sound like automotive antifreeze. It wouldn't leave the corrosion you encountred. It would leave a slime/goo/gel in the system. Sounds more like bad water or antifreeze that had depleted it's inhibitor. I'm not sure what you are trying to clean out of the system? Let us know and I'm sure there is a solution.

Dave H_2

Barrier or Non-Barrier

Is it barrier or non-barrier PEX?

The components that are corroded, are they cast iron, brass,.....

What is the water temperature and how long has the system been in place?

If you answered non-barrier, cast iron or steel, you could be looking at oxygen diffusion and the components are oxidizing (rusting). The higher the water temperature, the faster the diffusion.

Drew_2

Glycol

Go to Rhomar's website http://www.rhomarwater.com & click on hydronic systems (left side of page). For cleaning the system use Hydro-Solv 9100. This should give you a clean system to start with.

To answer your Water Question:

Always have the water tested. We recommend that chlorides and sulfates in the water be less than 25 parts per million each, and the total hardness be less that 100 parts per million of calcium and magnesium. Distilled or deionized water should ensure that these limits are not surpassed.
The pH of most water should be around 7 to 8. The palce where pH should be tested is when you are using an additive, such as PG antifreeze. This should be checked after the installation and at least once a year after that. The pH in most systems (without aluminum components) with PG antifreeze should read between 7 and 11 on the pH scale. The pH should be kept up by adding inhibitor to the system as needed. There are charts and additional information at our website www.noblecompany.com

hot_rod

Does it really need

to have glycol? As you see, glycols need constant maintenance, especially in non barrier systems.

Unless it is shut down for long periods in below freezing weather, I'd consider plain water and a little inhibitor. Generally a constant circ system will not freeze, even with the heat sourse left low, or off, for periods. Is it an option to run constant circ and just fire the burner on a call?

If not, plan on a yearly check up, ph mainly, 9.5- 10.5 is a good range, add an inhibitor booster as needed.

Glycols solve one problem, freeze protection, but can bring a lot of others along. Does the heater have the anode still in place. Depending on the glycol type, this could be the cause of the sludge. If the O2 is kept out of the system, really no need for the anode in a closed loop application.

A good flush with a hydronic flush product, or TSP should clean the sludge and bring the ph back up along with it.

If you refill with glycol 35% should be plenty. Also the blend water quality is crucial. 40 gallons of hard or "out of spec" water will deplete the inhibitor package in the glycol from the day you put it in! Glycol manufactures will supply the required blend water criteria.

Sounds like you will need 50 gallons or so. Dow will supply 55 gallon drums, EG or PG, premixed to you requirement, with DI water to assure proper protection and best life.

hot rod

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Art Pittaway

Check or replace Relief Valve

To many times the T&P is the only relief in the system. If the rest is corroded it's a possibility the RV is in poor shape. I usually spec a prv and 30# RV, some codes require a backflow device....it does have an expansion tank and some type of check valve? Cover your keester, you don't want the thing to screw up and blow up a week after you leave. Sometimes it's worthwhile to inform the customer of a code violation and put it in writing that he doesn't want it fixed. You can't force him, but you can end a finger pointing session real quick with a signed note on the work order.