#*($) Myson Towel Warmer Connections

Mad Dog

wasn't impressed with Myson...will try runtal or one of the others next time.Mad Dog

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Mike T., Swampeast MO

Four hours and three failures...

Paper-thin "retainer nut" TWISTED IN HALF on one of the valves!!! "Special" lock-tite seems a joke! Of course the valve is still quite secured to the tube because the inner portion of the now broken retainer is still inside!

Drip, drip, drip.

Any guess on how to get it out? (I presume the valve will be ruined anyway so don't worry if suggestion involves its demise.)

What a horrid thing after installing all of the Grohe shower/tub hardware! Grohe requires precision (no problem) but works perfectly the FIRST time!!!!!!!!

No wonder plumbers in the UK are in short supply and get paid a fortune--they kill themselves in frustration!!!!!

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Got the valve off without damage--compression ring had not seated all the way and just pulled itself out through the threads as it tightened! I can't figure out how this cursed thing is supposed to work to begin with!!!

Crazy, but I had an extra of their crazy compression rings (FROM MY FINGER), tinned it and it's seating place in the valve, tinned the tube and sweated everything together!!! It's holding tight--I guess one-chance-in-ten that it won't leak!!!!!

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Sweating it all together WORKED!!!!

But now I've had to install/remove the warmer itself so many times that the o-ring seals at the union are shot! Why oh why do they have o-rings in unions???

What do you think will be my chance of finding the proper size rings locally?

Tony_8

myson

I thought it was me... Shook my 20 yr confidence level...
I sealed the o-ring union w/sealing pipe dope same as I did those damn backwards compression fittings. Doesn't matter if the o-ring rots from the sealer, IT didn't seal ANYWAY. Now the HO says it doesn't stay warm throughout the cycle of the timer. He "wiggles" the handle 1/2 a turn and it heats back up. Makes NO sense whatsoever. Controlled by a ZV & timer on a manifold supplying the staple-up bath floor @ 120F. Not air. Probably a mouse nest or packing peanut. I just don't want to take it apart again and spend 1/2 a day. Maybe I'll try silicone this time.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Just a tiny weep at one union

Am uttering those DANGEROUS WORDS, "maybe it will go away!"

I will NEVER again buy or recommend any English product that attaches to a plumbing system! (Sorry to those of you in the UK but at least you have my DEEP RESPECT for working with this $(@*.)

This one is set up on a DHW gravity recirculation loop and it stayed working (if leaking slightly) all winter. It was essentially gummed up by the time I had to remove it for the tile and no longer leaked.

But now I've lost my one piece of jewelry!!!!

Bob_9

Myson

I too have spent an afternoon cussing and questioning Myson towel bars. They're in and functioning but I've sworn to try every other mfg. before I purchase another myson.

Gary Fereday

Better made, over tightened ?

I wonder if the real question here is a fine product, that is being over tightened due to the half-**** products that must be overtightened that are so plentiful. Years ago I found the foreign pipe unions being a real pain. I took to useing American made unions and found that they would seal far more easily that the foreign ones did. We all get caught in a over tightening situation, automaticall, due to the crappy poor quality pipe,& crummy fittings.
A carefully made thread, a good quality tapping, the use of a quality dope,and reasonable tightening (not gorilla), will result in a leak proof joint. jmho bigugh

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Don't like overtightening

I tend to have them just a bit beyond hand-tight then tighten until weeping stops. Learned a long time ago that unions like to be "just tight enough." Can't understand why these unions use o-rings--am accustomed to metal-metal unions.

Finish is absolutely first-rate but the connections are just weird.

Gary Usa

towel rails

hiya gang,well i must admt haven;t had too much trouble with them,the rings can however create problems in the sense that some are for pex tubing and some for copper,the o rings are suppose to be for thermal movement to which is suppose to stop noise transmitting into the towel rail.when the pipes are in a fixed position the pipes can when attatched to the valves become slightly off centre as they are a very fine metric thread which in turn can be cross threaded very easily,the cone or olive as we call them i normally have either put teflon around them or dope before the olive no point putting it onto the olive as it does no good their has to be in front of the olive angle,in order that when it goes up to the valve seats correctly.i never put too much dope on other it would cause dope to enter the valve and can cause a slight restriction,these are strange creatures to sometimes deal with but have found that it's very important for the pipes to be loose enough in order that the valves can sit on the towel rail true and square.i normally useto intall a trv on the rad plus also can install an elcetric element in the end for summer use if so wished.normally piped it into the hot water side with a a 2 port valve and a pipe themostat along with a circulatorso that the towel rail can have an independant temperatur control from water.

hope that this may have helped a bit,if i can help at all please give me a shout

all the best

gary uk

t.c. (tsbc)

what i did.

I bought two 3/4 X 12" Brass nips and had a local guy make them Polished Brass. Stupid cheep compaired to Trim to the Trade or anyone from the supply house.... bring string! PS ( for the new guys) Always use pipe dope on any compression or flair fitting as a lube to prevent galling. Even on speedy tubes and there, remember to catch the comp. nut befor the basin or ballcock so not to strip to fine thread on the valve....