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Replace rivets on 007 electrical connection housing?

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Patchogue Phil_11
Patchogue Phil_11 Member Posts: 3
in THE MAIN WALL
How/what do you replace the "rivets" that hold the electrical connections housing to the pump housing on a Taco 007?

I realize that anything too long could/would short out the windings.

TIA

Patchogue Phil

Comments

  • Steve Ebels
    Steve Ebels Member Posts: 904
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    I've had the problem also.

    Kind of a light duty type setup. I don't have a good suggestion for you.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
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    The only thing that worked for us

    is to thread 2 pairs of zip ties around the inside of the wiring housing , and cinch it to the body . It dont look pretty , but it holds it in place tight . Maybe they make ties in green ?
  • Patchogue Phil_11
    Patchogue Phil_11 Member Posts: 3
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    tie wraps

    Yep, they make green. A tie wrapped one will look better than the box just dangling there.

    Seems like the newer 007's have the problem more often and the old ones are attached more solidly. Progress?

    Phil


  • Unknown
    Unknown
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    I have to give Taco credit

    Out of the thousands we installed , only a handful have broken out of the rivets . And some of them were shipped with the boiler , in a carton that bounced around .
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    try

    a 3/8" sheet metal screw with a washer.
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    try

    a 3/8" sheet metal screw with a washer.
  • chuck shaw
    chuck shaw Member Posts: 584
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    007 pumps are pretty inexpensive

    why not just replace the pump? sounds like you want to work too hard and think too much. JMO

    Chuck

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  • Bill NTSG
    Bill NTSG Member Posts: 321
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    JB Weld

    or some other kind of epoxy will work. Had to do it a couple of times.
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    here is why...

    try 2 am on a Sunday morning, 95 miles from your supply house, emergency boiler replacement for water heating system for a large dairy, already got supply house to open to get you boiler, etc., you open the circulator box and the electrical junction box is loose, whatcha gonna do?

    This happened to me. Also on service calls when you are 60 miles from the supply house and the new circ has a loose box. Whatcha gonna do?
  • chuck shaw
    chuck shaw Member Posts: 584
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    keep them on the truck?

    just a thought. That far away from a supply house, I'd make sure I had a back up for a lot of things....

    Chuck

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  • Patchogue Phil_3
    Patchogue Phil_3 Member Posts: 6
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    Replace the whole pump?

    Chuck

    So you wanna drain the system if no isolation valves, or at very least isolate the pump and do an R & R (refill, scrape gaskets, make sure air is bled etc etc)? That's an awful lot of time for which you shouldn't charge, when all that is needed is to remount the electrical box!
  • chuck shaw
    chuck shaw Member Posts: 584
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    yea it is,

    > Chuck

    >

    > So you wanna drain the system if no

    > isolation valves, or at very least isolate the

    > pump and do an R & R (refill, scrape gaskets,

    > make sure air is bled etc etc)? That's an awful

    > lot of time for which you shouldn't charge, when

    > all that is needed is to remount the electrical

    > box!





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  • chuck shaw
    chuck shaw Member Posts: 584
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    yea it is,

    but why shouldnt you charge for it? Did you break the circulator, then you should eat it. What does taco have to say about altering their connections (box to housing), put in too long a screw and do you damage anything that could cause you to go back and have to replace it anyhow, this time probally for free.

    You want to drive a screw in there fine, I still say replace it. And charge the customer for the job.

    Chuck
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,200
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    Or you could

    install a Grundfos 3 year warranty pump with solidly mounted terminal box :)

    hot rod

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    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • heatboy
    heatboy Member Posts: 1,468
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    My solution would be...........

    a Grundfos 15-58 ;-D

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    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Patchogue Phil_11
    Patchogue Phil_11 Member Posts: 3
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    That's ridiculous

    to replace a whole pump because a rivet fell out!

    Do you get a new engine when you go in for an oil change on your vehicle?

    I'm all for good customer service and relations, but to replace the pump that results in a big charge to the customer is bad, IMO. If I found the pump that way, I'd "repair" not replace. If it's out of the box that way, I'd replace it if another is available on job site.

    All I'm looking for a a Taco "repair screw" or a Taco sanctioned method of repair.



  • paul lessard_2
    paul lessard_2 Member Posts: 192
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    Q
  • paul lessard_2
    paul lessard_2 Member Posts: 192
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    q
  • Bob Bona_4
    Bob Bona_4 Member Posts: 2,083
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    it's

    a pathetic thing to have happen, and it's happened to me a few times. Last year I finally tried Taco's priority 007. You guessed it, the box popped off after trying to get the wires in there I needed to. 2 Tytons for ductwork got it secure, but what a hack-ey looking set up.

    Never again-it's Grundfos for me.

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  • Bill NTSG
    Bill NTSG Member Posts: 321
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    Phil

    All B.S. aside , the epoxy works. I have some stuff for plastic and some for steel. I think it is made by Hercules. It comes in a tube about the same dia. as a quarter, you cut of a piece and roll it between your hands to mix it [two part epoxy]. It is not expensive and it has saved my butt a couple of times. I have fixed cracked steel and plastic fittings . I am not a cheap way out guy but some times you gotta do what you gotta do. My ex-boss is a JB Weld guy, I can not believe some of the stuff he has patched "until we can back to it" He patched three boilers last year and they all made it 'til spring when they got repaired or replaced
  • chuck shaw
    chuck shaw Member Posts: 584
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    That is the most foolish compaison I have ever heard

    an oil change is regular maintaince. How about asking if I would want a new engine if the motor mounts failed. That would be a more realistic example.

    And back to your question, I still stand by replacing a "perfectly good pump" that is falling apart. That is my opinion. I would do it tommrow, if the situation came up. We are talking about a $50 dollar pump, and about 45 min labor, not a $3000 engine and two days work.

    Chuck

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  • bill clinton_3
    bill clinton_3 Member Posts: 111
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    I don't understand

    Why isn't everybody yelling at Taco?? This problem has existed since they introduced the Zone priority pump with th box mounted that way, quite a few years ago. I know they know it's a problem because I've told them so several times.

    Let's be honest about it: No other pumps have that problem, so why doesn't Taco get off its lazy butt and fix it?

    Just my not so humble opinion.

    Bill
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,200
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    Bingo Bill

    The homeowner should not have to suck it up, nor should the contractor be required to "weld" a pump back together. If the manufacture wants to cheapen the pump or assembly then for crying out loud stand behind it!

    How about a pump and a second freebie for the contractor doing the work. Grundfos fixed their Brute problem with a pump and 50 bucks to the contractor.


    Keep doing what ya been doing and you'll keep getting what you got! If you keep "barnyard fixing" the rivets what's Taco incentive to fix the obvious problem?

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Bill NTSG
    Bill NTSG Member Posts: 321
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    Barnyard Fixin'?

    Hot Rod I guess you got me on that one. Do farmers in Missouri "fix" stuff the way they do in New England? Bailing wire or twine a pair of vise grips and a screwdriver 'll fix about anything........
  • J.C.A.
    J.C.A. Member Posts: 349
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    Bill....

    I'm surprised ! You forgot "the handymans favorite weapon ....duct tape !" .

    I'll admit to a few tandem zip ties as a hold over, but always get a replacement for the job. The heat eventually makes them give up the ghost with it pounding on them . Even a small bump after a few months will snap them like a fresh peapod. Screws may have worked with the old "ribbed" motor housings, but with the smooth housings, I wouldn't put any kind of screw into it . You'll be into motor windings way too fast . Chris
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    Why the consternation over the screw idea?

    Just curious. If you take a 3/8" screw, file the tip so it's 1/4" long, and use a small washer... you will penetrate the housing less than 1/8".

    It will get you out of a bind. That is all I would EVER use it for.

    BTW, what about the Armstrong circs? The little red ones. Any good. Sorry I don't have the model number at the moment.
  • Steve Eayrs
    Steve Eayrs Member Posts: 424
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    Just curious.........

    What parts do most of you keep on your trucks, and/or shop? We usually have a least a couple pumps of the common sizes on the truck, and will most likely have about any part we need for a repair, if not on the truck, definitely in the shop. Of course my shop is teh closest thing to a supply store, for about 80 miles, where the closest real supply store is.
    I would not install such a pump, but send it back to the supply house, who will pass it on to the rep, and so on. The only way they will upgrade these things is if they have to pay fo them directly. I bet if you asked taco about it, they would say it is a very isolated problem, (in otherwords not a valid one), and based on how many free replacement pumps they end up giving away, they would be right.
    You just prolong the problem by not asking these responsible to pay for it. None of us ever really change much, unless we have too. How many of you quit smoking, just because you decided you didn't like it? You quit because you weighted the cost, and found it something you needed to do.

    by the way, I an also a grundfos guy. The rate that cartridges that needed to be replaced, on the 007 was another part of the reason.

    Steve
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    I agree...

    with the part about turning them in. An excellant point! I will watch that closer.

    Also, I have had great luck with 007's. Some guys don't. Not sure why???
  • John@Reliable_2
    John@Reliable_2 Member Posts: 104
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    The little red one!

    Richard, thats a NRF-22 "new red fox" nice pump, use them all the time. The other local brand from RI is sold at the "big box store" so we one longer use unless w/package boiler. Only thing that bugs me w/the nrf-22 is they don't give you new bolts w/ the pump,when they first came out they did.John@Reliable
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    John...

    Buy the bolts in full box quatities at a hardware store. I like the flanges better than Taco's too so I only stock the red flanges.
  • John@Reliable_2
    John@Reliable_2 Member Posts: 104
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    Richard, I found something even better!

    Webstone Brass flanges w/ ballvalve built in + it comes w/bolts. Cost about the same as flange/ballvalve/fittings etc. they even give you different handles all in one box,check them out.John@Reliable
  • Richard Miller_2
    Richard Miller_2 Member Posts: 139
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    I will

    A lot of guys around here use some kind of iso-flange. I make money by replacing them because they leak!
  • Patchogue Phil_3
    Patchogue Phil_3 Member Posts: 6
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    Link

    Here's a direct link to their website.


    webstonevalves.com
  • bill clinton_3
    bill clinton_3 Member Posts: 111
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    @#!**! Funny this comes up right now

    Just had to send a man out to a job that we just finished yesterday. Customer was bitchin me out last night because some zones had no heat. Turns out it was the Taco ZP pump. We had had the loose box problem with it and fixed it with short screws. Not short enough to not short. Blooey. Toss one pump and half a day's work.

    Sorry Taco, I'm votin' with my feet and with my check-book. Bye-bye.

    Bill
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