Broken Plug

Wayco Wayne

A customer had her plumber leave a 3/4" plug in the supply and return of her boiler because she knew she would be putting an addition on the house in the future. Well it's been quite a while but she is now ready. The addition is built and she is having us put in a radiant floor. Problem is when I tried to take out the plug on the supply it wouldn't budge. No problem I say, I'll add a couple feet to my adjustable wrench with some 2 inch pipe. Pop! The square end of the black pipe plug breaks off. Now I'll have to drain the whole system and somehow get this plug out. Any suggestions on the best way how?? WW

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Mike T., Swampeast MO

Hand Drill & Dremel Tool

Is how I've removed plugs from iron rads. Slow and you have to be careful not to damage in female threads, but it works and I've done three without damage or failure.

steve gates

This is why I won't use

a plug. Always a nipple and cap. Like Mike said be carefull on the threads with that dremmel.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Have had good luck

"breaking" joints on really old systems with rock-hard dope using cheap silicon spray (not the pure stuff--that with high amount of petroleum distillate). Drench repeatedly over a period of a few hours.

Maybe I just got lucky or had an adrenaline rush at just the right moment, but it seems to work. Somebody was looking out for me that day as had to re-orient an el 180°on a riser with the el just above top plate. No way to get a wrench on the pipe--just the fitting--impossible from bottom connection to main as well. Of course it came loose about 8' down at a coupling buried inside of wall cavity.

Was telling homeowner that I'd do my best to make the smallest possible hole in the recently faux-painted wall. Cleaned it, doped it up, inserted in hole, turned pipe and prayed. It threaded nicely the first time! Couldn't believe it--Murphy had taken a bit of a vacation.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Another thought

Are there no unions around to allow you to remove the section reasonably easily? Even if not, it may be easier to cut pipe remove section(s) and install a union. Drilling out a small 3/4" plug won't be fun and is certain to take quite a while...

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Relief Cuts

I pulled these pictures off The Wall a few months ago that show how to remove a frozen nipple from a fitting. Relief cuts are made through the nipple and when you tap the segments, they will fall away. You can do the same with that pesky plug.

Be careful not to cut the female threads and if it's a vertical nipple pointing up, stick a rag down past the nipple to make sure the nipple fragments don't fall in and get lost.

BTW, it sure would be nice to know who took these pictures so I could give him credit for them; they're very good.

Alan

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John@Reliable_2

Broken plug, good way to start the day!

On small ones like this I've drilled and tap. Could also use a jigsaw and cut like Alan's picture. On 1" and above I use a sawsall,two cuts and they fall out. John@Reliable

John@Reliable_2

Alan, must of been a plumber only tool he shows is priers lol

John@Reliable

Kritz_3

Unplugged

Use an easy-out extractor. Drill the correct size hole in the plug and insert the extractor that is held in a tap handle and turn the tap handle counter clockwise. Use a 1/2" NPT extractor.
Try a little bit of heat if it isn't budging add a little paraffin with the heat it will penetrate in to the joint it's worked for me. The nipple and cap or nipple and valve that's capped is the only way to fly!

Unknown

That was my job

We cut that out of a 4 inch pipe on an old steam header . And John , if youre good at it , all you need is a sawzall , chisel , hammer , and yes , pliers to turn the leftover out of the fitting . I've been doing it for quite some time , and I havent had one just fall out on its own yet . This is the boiler and header it came from .

John@Reliable_2

I should've know it was you!

Ron, I like you do allot of these. I do everything like you but, I leave about 1"-11/2 " sticking out of fitting. This way to me is easier after you make the two cuts, hit out the wedge and then hit the pipe which will bend into it's self and fall out. I don't always have a helper so I find a pipe wrench also mades a good hammer, plus less to carry back to truck. Ron, try one this way and I think you will like it. John@Reliable

Unknown

Yep , we used to keep alot

of thread sticking out of the fitting , but it took longer to cut through the extra inch or so , and I found it harder to gauge if I was cutting into the inner threads . I leave just 2 or 3 threads now , and when I make the 2 cuts and knock the wedge out , I tap around whats left with the chisel - to loosen it and bend it in a bit . I use the pliers to break it free .

Hey John , remember the 1st time you seen this trick ? I was 17 and helping my boss on a steamer . I saw him cut the pipe so close , in a wall no less , that I couldnt imagine we were gonna reuse anything in there . He was fond of the one cut method , and he was an expert at missing the inner threads , every time .

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

It's good to know

who did that fine work. Do you mind it if I use your pictures now that I know who to credit?

Alan

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Unknown

Sure Alan

Use the pics as often as you need em . Trying to get plugs or pipe out of fittings is a pretty common question on The Wall . I kinda thought taking pics of the process would help explain how its done .

Tom M.

relief cuts

Alan,
I have used this method many times without fail. Just have a bright light and hold the sawzall straight so you don't damage the threads you are saving. Also, I like to cut the pipe off about a wrench-width from the fitting. When the relief cuts are made and the middle piece is chiseled clear on one side, use your pipe wrench. Place it so that the squeezing action of the wrench crushes the pipe out of the threads. If it is in a tight space, think for a minute about the location of the cuts so you can get the wrench on it properly.

Tom M.

hot_rod

Yep

the cut and collapse method works for me. I also keep pipe taps up to 1-1/2" on the truck in case I cut a little deep. The tap will clean up and slightly enlarge the thread if the cut when too deep. A good anerobic pipe sealent like the locktite pipe thread compound is another good idea.

hot rod

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Jim_22

I drill the center out with a smaller hole saw (Lenox) and then do the relief cuts like suggested. Helps to start with a small pilot to get the center exact. If you're careful, it will come out. Also, a lot of light helps, so you can see how close you are getting to the threads. And I don't know about you but I need my glasses. The eyes ain't what the used to be

Good luck
Jim

D lux_2

drill 1/2 hole in center

braze in 1/2 inch rod and turn it out , still have to drain wont damage thd. and if it does'nt work {it will } you can still cut thds.

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Wayco Wayne

Thanks guys

for all of the suggestions. It's great to have so much experience to draw from. Some day I'll invent an aerosol broken plug remover and make my fortune. Just spay it on and watch it back itself out. Ohyahhh. :0 WW

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