threading 2 inch pipe

jrc2905

I have a chance to but a ridged 2" pipe die, my question is, is the 65 R a tool that will give a easyer cut than a standard 2 inch die? I there a gear reduction ratio in play on the 65-r, thanks

jrc2905

I have a house with a damaged 2 inch one pipe steam main. Very old house a section of the main that has been laying in the dirt has developed leaks in the bottom of the pipe. This pipe is in an 18 inch crawl space under the house. I am going to have to take out a section of the floor to get to this pipe. The pipe ends in a tee that goes right and straight. I am thinking cut out the bad section and hand thread good pipe and reconnect. Because of the age of the pipe and the tee conection I do not see any other options.
Any comments, thanks.

Steamhead

You are correct

you will have to cut and thread a new piece of 2-inch black pipe.

When you replace this pipe, do whatever it takes to keep the pipe from lying in the dirt. You'll probably have to dig it out, and maybe build a small retaining wall to keep dirt from falling in. And insulate the pipes well.

If there is no main vent at the end of this pipe, add a tee and install a properly-sized one. You may need to leave a little access hatch to get at the vent should it need replacement, but the effort is worth it.

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jrc2905

Let me restate my question, can I cut out the bad section and put threads on the good part that is left, given the space I have to work in and the size of the pipe I am not sure I could remove the tee conection anyway? There looks to be about ten feet of pipe not touching the dirt that is still in good condition.

Steamhead

Sure you can

it might be awkward, but it can be done.

I'd first try heating the joint that good section screws into, to a red heat- then unscrewing it. Many times that's all it takes, and you can thread it more easily in a vise. Always keep a fire extinguisher or hose handy when doing this, and turn off power to adjacent electrical equipment- but you knew all that.

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Larry_7

Access to power dies?

Threading 2" by hand in that space sounds grueling. If any consolation, I've found that old pipe usually threads easier than the newer stuff. I think they made it softer back then. Regardless of the age I would look into borrowing or renting some hand-held power dies for this task. It takes all my 165 Lbs of mass and ego to hand thread 2" in a vise...and that's with all the keys and loose change in my pockets. You're not gonna have the full benefit of gravity under there. All arms and attitude.
Good luck.

Grrrrr

Larry

Gary Fereday

Threading \"old pipe\"

Dear John,
(could not help that)
you many heed to cut the old pipe off until you get a piece worth threading. If the pipe is thin it may well jam and stop the threader. rent a 65-R ridged it has an advantage if you must use a hand threader. A ridged 700 power stock will do nicely, but again be carefull of the old pipe, and the obvious thin bottom part. visual inspection of the cut end should show you if your ok. cut a new piece to compare it with. And all the above Posts are relevant also.
bigugh

Edward A. Carey

Threading 2\" pipe

John,

Can you get to the tee?. If you can, you can use your sawzall and cut through the entire pipe very near the tee. Leave about 3/4" remaining sticking out of the tee.

Then use the sawzall and VERY CAREFULLY cut two slices in the small piece left inside the threads of the tee. You will make a wedge about 1/2" wide with the 2 slices. Do not cut all the way through the threads. Then take a chisel and tap the small wedge shaped cut piece from the remaining pipe inside the fitting.

When the wedge shaped piece of the pipe is removed you can squeeze the remaining piece of the pipe and it will literally fall out of the tee.

Screw a new pipe into the tee, or put in a nipple and nut union in that place, to give you a connection point. You won't be using part of that rotted pipe. It will all be new to the tee.

I have done this many times and it works well. However, if you cut too deep when making the wedge, you will damage the tee.

Good Luck,

Ed Carey

Douglas Hicks

Instead of threading the pipe by hand, a difficult job, have you thought of grooving the pipe with a portable roll groover?

Douglas Hicks
General Fire Equipment Co of Eastern Oregon, Inc

jrc2905

I appreciate all the suggestions I will start by cutting and threading and if all else fails move on to some of the more drastic measures, thanks.

Jim_8

Roll grover

Works great on water but not for steam