dry cut saw

Randy Tibbits

A while ago somebody posted about using a dry cut saw to cut copper tubing. This seems like a time saver. So I decided to try it out. Where in the world do I get one of these blades? I've checked with graingers but I'm not sure on a model number. thanks

Wayne_12

steel saws

Randy, I haved used a saw designed to cut steel much like a chop saw without all the sparks and discolored paint.

I purchased my Makitta from the local welding suppler. The motor runs at a slower speed than a skil saw or chop saw. The cutter tips are carbide. We tried the skil saw style and the miter box style. We liked the miter style better, able to secure the metal and also able to make angle cuts.

Once cut 4" angle iron 3/8" thick. In no time had 6 pieces with clean edges. That was the limit to clear the motor and guards. The thickness was no problem.

I have tried pvc, wood, copper and aluminum with simular results.

I know there are several manufactures that make a simular tool. Having service and repair close by is a plus, if it is ever needed.

Try one on a rental basis before spending the money.

My pennys worth of thoughts. Wayne

Paul_6

In Graingers Cat # 393

pp 1191 DeWalt multi-cutter, pn 4yl17. there is also a ridgid shown, and porter cable makes one as well. You can not put a multi cutter blade on a regular chop saw, as abrasive wheels run at 5000 rpm and the carbide run at 1300 to 1500 rpm. That said, the tool is well worth the investment. Paul

ChrisL

How Loud?

How loud are these cut-off saws when cutting metal with a carbide blade? I once had an autobody grinder that used a metal disc and the noise was unbearable. Can it be comfortably used without ear plugs?

Thanks,

Chris

Paul_6

I don't think

mine is any louder than a regular chop saw. we usually hang a pair of ear muffs on the handle so hearing protection is with it. Paul

Unknown

Do it all chop saw

I have a Portacable about 3 years now I dont use it much on copper but on PVC, angle iron, unistrut, threaded rod, 2x4s, etc. I could not live without it, I keep it on my truck saves alot of time. I started out with an abrasive blade chop saw but this is a better investement.Its as loud as any other power saw.
good luck Don

hot_rod

In my stable

I still find a 10" miter saw with a special non ferrous 80 tooth blade cuts copper the quickest and cleanest.

For excellent all around use the dry cuts add the ability to cut gas pipe, unistrut, wood blocks, and much more. A good do-all cutting tool.

Need to use good ear and eye protection with either, however. They really spew hot, sharp chips everywhere! A face shield might be the best protection.

hot rod

Cosmo

dry cut saw

If you look at Hotrod's picture you will see a Dewalt Multicutter on the right. I bought one a while ago and it found a permanent place in my truck. I use it to cut almost everything, schedule 40 steel pipe (up to 5"!), pvc pipe, conduit, threaded rod, unistrut, angle iron, aluminum joist trak, wood, and it just loves cutting rebar! I wish I had this when I started out......

Randy Tibbits

thanks

Thanks for the input gents. Now more than ever I must try out one of these saws.

Tony Conner

We've Found...

...a nice rig for most cutting jobs is a Milwaukee hand-held band saw. Virtually no sparks, relatively quiet, will cut most material, and FAST. (One of the structual fabrication welding shop guys at a customers plant watched me cut a 1" sch 80 steel pipe and asked "Was that plastic pipe?" - that's how fast it is.) Most of the pipe welders around here use them now. They still carry cutting torches, but with a little practice, they can cut pipe, and grind a bevel faster than with a torch. The deep cut models will do 4-1/2" material. It's tricky to keep the blade from wandering over large material though. Most guys mark the pipe with a wrap-around, the cut until the blade starts to drift off the mark, then roll the pipe and start another cut. I've personally cut 6" steel pipe for Victaulic grooving, and it works just fine.

There's a rig you can get from Milwaukee to make it into set up like a chop saw. You just take the front handle off - couple of screws.

Steel/copper/plastic pipe, wood, strut, ready rod, angle/channel/square. Very little burr to deal with. You can usually start the nuts on the ready-rod with no problem.

If you carry a Ridgid 700, you can keep up with a 300 with one of these saws. You can't thread as fast as a 300 because you have to reverse the dies all the way off the thread, but you make that up on WAY faster cutting, and no reaming required. Plus the pipe is already in the tri-stand, ready to have a fitting screwed onto it.

mp1969

Dry cuts

What about the dust and air born problems with the use of these kind of saws? I have used the chop saws on commercial jobs but find that the flying material can be a problem in existing buildings,The band saws tend to be less noisy yet harder to control on large cuts for accuracy.

M.P. 1969

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Cosmo

let me try to explain

Yes, a standard chop saw with an abrasive blade spews all over the place, sparks and all. A dry-cut chop saw designed to use a carbide tipped blade actually cuts through the material, instead of abrading through. The Dewalt Multicutter I have was designed to use this blade and only spins at 1300RPM, the other brands also offer this feature. When cutting through schedule 40 pipe I hardly see any sparks at all, and the small chips only fly a few feet from the saw if at all.
Hope this helps!