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Tain Breezer (PAH)
Dave Yates (PAH)
Member Posts: 2,162
Here's the deal.
Pre-engineered roof trusses of 2x4 construction. Span is 20 feet & width of the space they cover is 16'. (20x16 room with 8' ceiling.)
Plywood ceiling firmly attached to underside of truss joists.
Many walls running under (across the engineered truss members - perpindicular) this 3/4" plywood ceiling (therefore supporting the truss joists) for division between four small bathrooms and a mechanical closet.
Now given that the bottom of these engineered truss 2x4 joists are attached firmly to the plywood ceiling and that the plywood, in turn, is being completely supported by walls below that are resting on a 6" thick slab on grade and that all of these components are firmly fastened to each other - can these joists be top-notched or drilled to accept water lines without adversely affecting the structural integrity?
The GC wants the water lines to be in the attic and we want them to as close to the plywood ceiling as possible so that the insulators can't get any appreciable R-value between the water lines and the plywood ceiling.
The GC doesn't want those joists touched, which will mean we'll be installing the water lines above the 4" level & I'm darn sure the insulators will see that as a place needing to be stuffed full! Boxing in is not allowed.
BTW, This is in a camp where the heat will be set back for long periods of time. Given that fact, I don't hold any hope that the water lines won't freeze in cold weather if they're installed in the attic.
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Pre-engineered roof trusses of 2x4 construction. Span is 20 feet & width of the space they cover is 16'. (20x16 room with 8' ceiling.)
Plywood ceiling firmly attached to underside of truss joists.
Many walls running under (across the engineered truss members - perpindicular) this 3/4" plywood ceiling (therefore supporting the truss joists) for division between four small bathrooms and a mechanical closet.
Now given that the bottom of these engineered truss 2x4 joists are attached firmly to the plywood ceiling and that the plywood, in turn, is being completely supported by walls below that are resting on a 6" thick slab on grade and that all of these components are firmly fastened to each other - can these joists be top-notched or drilled to accept water lines without adversely affecting the structural integrity?
The GC wants the water lines to be in the attic and we want them to as close to the plywood ceiling as possible so that the insulators can't get any appreciable R-value between the water lines and the plywood ceiling.
The GC doesn't want those joists touched, which will mean we'll be installing the water lines above the 4" level & I'm darn sure the insulators will see that as a place needing to be stuffed full! Boxing in is not allowed.
BTW, This is in a camp where the heat will be set back for long periods of time. Given that fact, I don't hold any hope that the water lines won't freeze in cold weather if they're installed in the attic.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=98&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
0
Comments
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Get it in writing from the G.C.
He doesn't want it in the walls..? OK, so if he's the boss and you get paid and he wants the pipe in the attic, put it in the attic. If you feel better have him put your instructions in writing (letterhead,signed) and/or draft an objection and have him sign a copy for the record that you hold no responsibility for freezing. I wouldn't touch the trusses, because the walls are probably considered "non bearing", it doesn't have to make sense. But three years from now, they decide to remove the walls and make one big room.....now what?
My Opinion, Art
0 -
i agree with Art
make him sign thats its okay to put the water pipes in the attic, then use pex pipe. least it shouldn't rupture...the G.C. had better have an engineer's stamp before i touch a truss...just my opinion.0 -
Truss, TGI, Gluelam
> He doesn't want it in the walls..? OK, so if he's
> the boss and you get paid and he wants the pipe
> in the attic, put it in the attic. If you feel
> better have him put your instructions in writing
> (letterhead,signed) and/or draft an objection and
> have him sign a copy for the record that you hold
> no responsibility for freezing. I wouldn't touch
> the trusses, because the walls are probably
> considered "non bearing", it doesn't have to make
> sense. But three years from now, they decide to
> remove the walls and make one big room.....now
> what? My Opinion, Art
0 -
An engineer
of truss's could probably prescribe a fix for modifying or notching a truss like that. The plywood diaphram you describe, properly nailed, may transfer the loads adequately.
After those heavy snow falls and collapsed roof back there this winter, best to ask a pro.
hot rodBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
trusses
Agree totally with contacting an engineer. We have neveer been givent he OK to do that. Contact the manufacturer of the trusses. It's their engineer who's stamp is on that design. If he says OK, get it in writing before you drill, notch or cut his trusses.
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