trianco boiler diagnostic delema

Zane Soderberg

A new custimer of mine has a Trianco boilermate that appears to be airbound. It makes steam after running for only a few seconds that pours out the bleed petcock. As a test I opened the petcock when the water was cold so that the water ran in a continuous stream. I then fired the boiler and found that after only a few seconds the water at the petcock had turned to steam with a rise in temperature from 70 degrees to 250 degrees in less than 45 seconds. Obviously i have some dry pipes that should be full of water. question is; what other tests should i perform to properly diagnose and correct this problem

Zane Soderberg

Diagnostic difficulties w/ Trianco

A new custimer of mine has a Trianco boilermate that appears to be airbound. It makes steam after running for only a few seconds that pours out the bleed petcock. As a test I opened the petcock when the water was cold so that the water ran in a continuous stream. I then fired the boiler and found that after only a few seconds the water at the petcock had turned to steam with a rise in temperature from 70 degrees to 250 degrees in less than 45 seconds. Obviously i have some dry pipes that should be full of water. question is; what other tests should i perform to properly diagnose and correct this problem

kevin

is there

a place to put a hyvent on the top part of the boiler? kpc

steve gates

if it's

a Trianco Heatmaker and doing this check the internal pump for flow. Not enough flow it will make steam and burn it up. I lost one in less than 2 seconds once. The coil could be plugging up and changing the flow also. How old and any leaks?

Zane Soderberg

Thanks steve

for your input. As it turns out it was a boilermaker that had no internal circulation due to a bad circ; you were right on target w/your advice, and I still have a customer who thinks I know what I'm doing! Thanks again!!

Steve Miller

Heatmakers

> for your input. As it turns out it was a

> boilermaker that had no internal circulation due

> to a bad circ; you were right on target w/your

> advice, and I still have a customer who thinks I

> know what I'm doing! Thanks again!!

Steve Miller

Heatmakers

When the primary pump goes bad on a Heatmaker, it usually shuts down on the safety limit which opens at 240 degrees. That's the probe with the copper tube coming off the left side of the control box that goes into the heat exchanger coil with an 1/8 compression nut. If it cycled a few times on that limit it gets weak and fails. It's best to replace the safety limit when you replace the pump from my experience. They're kinda tricky to get them in straight so they don't clang inside the coil. Good luck!