Designing a new radiant &hydro-coil system

Sam G.

I am involved in a project that involves ripping out a very old scortched air furnace and installing a hydronic boiler combining a staple-up zone (wood then thinset tile), 1 baseboard zone, and 1 hydronic coil in a air handler/duct zone. Total house heatloss of under 100,000BTU/hr.It has been a few years since my last radiant system. (I did read Dan's radiant book last night).

A few questions to current installers:
My supply house recommends loose stapling leaving air gap between tubing and floor. Does this make sense? Should I use heat transfer plates?

Heatway Vs. Wirsbo?

Is double sided foil faced bubble wrap insulation sufficient?

Thank You Sam (Heat Jockey)

Dana

All of your questions are job specific and would be answered during the design phase. Go to www.wirsbo.com, they have a fairly good site. I'm sure they would be happy to send you out a design brochure and/or answer questions.

Mark A. Custis

Last combo job

I used ROTH AL plates srewed to the sub floor, hammered in the pex, then r-19 glass insulation. First Co. DX cooling. Boiler and controls by Veissman and Arzel.

I do lick the wirsbro site and will use them soon.

Mark

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Bruce_9

The more insulation underneath your heat the better. I've heard four times the R-value of what's above as a rule of thumb, definitely foil-faced toward the heat. It makes a nice cozy little spot for small critters to move into so be careful in crawl spaces.

Marc Sherby

Onix tubing by WattsRadiant (ex Heatway) is the most installation friendly and give excellent performance for staple up jobs. You won't need the plates with the onix. Leave about a 2" air space between the tubing and the foil faced insulation or the floors performance will be diminished.

HeatJockey

HeatJockey