Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Escutcheons - Yes or No
Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes
Member Posts: 1,243
that I like to see anything larger than the pipe coming out of the wall; it draws attention away from the radiator. So on our last job, I got together with the superintendent and got him to patch the gaps around the pipe.
I think it looks better.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=53&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
I think it looks better.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=53&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
0
Comments
-
Towel Warmers
got the treatment as well although you see more pipe .
We used chrome plated brass nipples.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Behind the
wall covering is a Rehau adaptor: Everloc x FIP.
It was important to get the depth measurement correct; we wanted to use a standard nipple length and not end up between sizes.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Floaters...
When we rough in something like that, we leave some play in the screws of 1/8 to 1/4 inch to allow for that "one last turn" syndrome that throws everything off. Just make sure you use a good heavy quality of screw so it doesn't snap off during final tightening. We call them floaters...
Nice work Alan.
ME0 -
Metal plate
Why is there a metal plate attached in front of the red flex tubing?
0 -
Plate
That is a nail plate or "Stud Guard" used to protect the pipe from nails driven into the stud or wall plate. They work most of the time!
Andy Morgan0 -
Carpenter guard...
the plate is called a nail plate and it's intended function is to keep the finish carpenters nails from hitting the tube where it passes through the sole plate of the wall.
ME0 -
The \"Look\"
I like the installation without escutcheons, Alan. We tend to use escutcheons, and use the "floater" method described by ME.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Great looking job Alan! My old man always told me not to use galv. pipe on hot-water! He says there is to much zinc in the pipe and it's bad for the system! Ever hear of that or is he just pulling my chain?
Jamie0 -
How much of a pain is it to set the debt of that fitting w/ the pex attached? You have a lot to take into consideration?
Side note: How close to the floor can you get these panels without compromising performance?0 -
another ell option
I like the without look best also. As long as the sheetrock finishers and painters are "pretty"
This ell, Vanguard brand I think, has three mounting ears and a bit more mounting surface area. It's a drag when an ear or screw snaps off while final tightening. I prefer a heavy gauge 1" sheetmetal screw to "grabber" or sheetreock screws. They seem too brittle.
Nice installation, Alan
hot rodBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Escutcheons
Sooooooooo clean w/o escutcheons. I've hung Mysons and Runtals on tiled walls and the rough in has to be right on. Mount backer boards for mounting and pipe holes at EXACT level and C-C. I leave play in-out for nipple adustment. Who knows exactly where the finish will be with an exotic tile surface? I then grab a 1x4 and lay out C-C and tie wire it to the stubs at the caps with instr. to drywall and tile and reinstall my 'template' level. I haven't a tile repair yet.
Chrome nips exiting a wall w/o plates are beauty to behold. Nice job,Alan.
Tom Goebig
P.S. All of mine have been hard piped.......no Pex in the wall. I see the need for strong screws if any in-out is needed. And it always is.0 -
I Must agree Jamie & appologies to Alan.
First off, beautiful work Alan, so precise.
Just today, (on a honey-do, freind-of-a-freind type job) I changed out four, 4" x 1/2" galv nipple stub-outs in an old house. They were all screwed into brass drop-ear ell's, and all galv threads were completely eaten out, and were seeping into the wall cavities. She thought it was going to be cheap, not quite.
Solar Swampy.
Appology: I just re-read the whole post, and now know what you did.
The galv nipples were for pressure testing, then you replaced them with the chrome plated nipples.
Beautiful work.
Brian in Swampland.0 -
To tell you the truth
we had to open up the wall at every location to adjust the rough, but it wasn't a surprise to the superintendent; we had "pre-warned" him when we bid the job and he was prepared. I've found that anything goes on a job as long as you tell people about it beforehand.
Jamie: We used galvanized nipples for our stub-outs and then replaced them with brass on final installation. As far as the mounting height for radiators, I believe Dan once said that the Dead Men figured 2-1/4" as the minimum height off the floor to allow for air movement.
Here's the boiler room in the basement. A vertical primary loop with injection to staple-up pulling off first, radiators second and then a mixing valve for the basement slab on the bottom. The boiler is a Viessmann ECD, a very sweet boiler.
Thanks for all your comments.
Alan
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Wall details
Alan
The final install looks great! I am curious about the framing details. I think I understand the horizontal "backer" to screw the elbow ears into. Can you explain the wall floor "plate" details? It almost looks like a wall for a pocket door. Why the 1-by stock on edge and the "plate" not so wide as the wall thickness?
Again, great install. Just I am curious....
Phil
0 -
I had to
think back to remember where exactly in the house I took that picture and yes, it was right in front of a pocket door. Good eye, Phil.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
Nice looking job....
Allen.
Getting the gc to patch that nicely takes as much talant as the instilation.
I'm curious, do you find that after a period of time, expantion and contraction losens up the nice tight patch?
nice job
p0 -
I'll let you know
I was wondering the same myself. With the amount of movement we get everytime there's an earthquake, I'm sure you will see something after awhile.
Perhaps a flexible caulk would have been better.
Good point.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
You guys
are making me think of ringing some doorbells to take some pics. A runtal towel warmer in a tiled niche. That job also had a tub deck with a six foot long x two pass high under an atrium window out of the deck w/no escutcheons. It's a super clean look with all chrome.
Tombig
0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements