Pipe Insulation

Bryan_5

I have a couple of quick questions about insulating my steam pipes. The first is what type of insulation do you guys prefer to use? My second question is what kind of savings would I expect to see in my fuel bill? I do realize from the latent heat i am loosing in the basement is probly significant. That is one of the warmer rooms in the house :) Your thougts are appreciated

Ben_3

Insulation

Not just the sauna effect that is going on down there without insulation. Besides all that heat that is being wasted instead of used in the radaitors it can also cause the system to heat very slowly. As the vents or traps close on the radiators and the air is being compressed and presure is building these bare pipes can condense the steam which will in turn cause a lower pressure there, steam will form a vaccum when it shrinks back to water, this can cause some of the steam to do a 180 and flow back towards those mains and away from the rads. Insulation isn't an option for steam, it's a must!! As for the type, I have seen everything used to do the job, really anything. I don't suggest using whatever is lying aroung find some that is sized correctly for the pipe and is split down the center for easy installation. I normally left this to the H.O. since it usually is a pretty easy task and who wants to pay a service rate for something most people can handle on their own. Good Luck

Al Letellier

Insulation

In a standard residential application we use 1" thick fiberglass insulation with insulated PVC fitting covers. As to savings, every application is different and difficult to calculate for a plain old steam head like me, but I know it's worth the effort and cost.

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David Efflandt

Not only is that heat being wasted on an area that is seldom occupied, but also going up the stack while the boiler is running.

The supply pipes of my 1-pipe system were mostly covered with rigid fiberglass which does not even get warm. It had not been replaced near boiler when boiler was replaced by previous owner 2 years ago. Since I did not know where to find rigid fiberglass, I wrapped exposed steam supply piping with foil backed fiberglass tied with twine, applied metalic duct tape on all the seams and removed the twine so it could fluff. With house set at 67 my half exposed basement hovered around 60 and dropped to 55 during subzero weather, heated only by dry returns and Hartford loop.

One thing you do not want to use is closed cell plastic insulation typically used for water pipes. Hot steam coming down the cold pipe tends to make it creep downstream and deteriorate.

David Efflandt

Not only is that heat being wasted on an area that is seldom occupied, but also going up the stack while the boiler is running.

The supply pipes of my 1-pipe system were mostly covered with rigid fiberglass which does not even get warm. It had not been replaced near boiler when boiler was replaced by previous owner 2 years ago. Since I did not know where to find rigid fiberglass, I wrapped exposed steam supply piping with foil backed fiberglass tied with twine, applied metalic duct tape on all the seams and removed the twine so it could fluff. With house set at 67 my half exposed basement hovered around 60 and dropped to 55 during subzero weather, heated only by dry returns and Hartford loop (and cooled by supply air from unheated back porch).

One thing you do not want to use is closed cell plastic insulation typically used for water pipes. Hot steam coming down the cold pipe tends to make it creep downstream and deteriorate.

David Efflandt

Not only is that excess heat being wasted on an area that is seldom occupied, but also going up the stack while the boiler is running.

The supply pipes of my 1-pipe system were mostly covered with rigid fiberglass which does not even get warm. It had not been replaced near boiler when boiler was replaced by previous owner 2 years ago. Since I did not know where to find rigid fiberglass, I wrapped exposed steam supply piping with foil backed fiberglass tied with twine, applied metalic duct tape on all the seams and removed the twine so it could fluff. With house set at 67 my half exposed basement hovered around 60 and dropped to 55 during subzero weather, heated only by dry returns and Hartford loop (and cooled by supply air from unheated back porch).

One thing you do not want to use is closed cell plastic insulation typically used for water pipes. Hot steam coming down the cold pipe tends to make it creep downstream and deteriorate.

Bryan_5

The cost of the insullation is not a big deal for this application. I know it needs it and I dont care to skimp on it with what I pay to heat my house 5% would be real money in a heating season. So I will do it. Was just looking for some ideas thanks alot
Bryan

steve_6

check your local plumbing supply house

You'll need to know the size of the pipe and the and wether it's iron or copper pipe. It should be iron. Make sure you get the fitting covers and the fasteners for them. They make for a very neet installation. Also Check out "knauf" insulation on the web