Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
50/50
Dave Palmer
Member Posts: 186
anyone still use lead solder? Or all switched over to silver-brite type solder? Just wondering.
0
Comments
-
Sure!!!!!
We try to use Taramet Sterling on most joints, but once in a while - on heat lines only - well cap a problem joint with 50/50.; Also, we stil use lead bends on toilet wastes and use 50/50 to join the brass flange. Still make lead shower pans too! Lead is an amazing material and I think gets a bad rap from the doomsdayers. If you are not ingesting it, you'll be fine. Mad Dog
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
50-50?
0 -
50-50?
We were forced to use lead free solder for potable water years ago and I discvered that we seemed to have a lot less leaks with the silvabrite brand than with 50-50 I have tried several other brands but the best in my experience is silvabrite by far.We have used it exclusively for all plumbing and heating applications for over 15 years.
John0 -
I use 50/50...
only on heat lines. I actually like it better than silvabrite. Longer working time and a better looking joint. I never use 95/5 makes a really messy job.I always can tell if someone has used it. NO problems with leaks. I especially like it when working with the swedged joints on baseboard. (I wish they would not put those on anymore, I actually have requested a couple mfg. to stop). Less chanceof a problem. kpc0 -
50/50
I only use it on non potable heat lines and then only when I'm soldering close to something flammable or close to old solder joints that are 50/50. With the lower melting temps of 50/50 I don't have to worry about starting a fire or messing up an existing joint.
Steve M0 -
Actually, I've seen 50/50 jobs that a re very sloppy....
with copious amounts of "grapes" and a lot of "vines" too. If you apply heat properly, nothing is neater than 95/5. Mad Dog
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
StayBrite #8
is the answer for me. Pricey, but worth it. Fills greats. You can barely tell the joint has been soldered. Just beautiful and no leaks. Fits my comfort zone just fine.
JMHO
Steve
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
50/50
When the lead thing became an issue the inspectors were on a lead solder "witch hunt" . They didn't even want to see it in your truck. So we stopped using it , even on heat pipes. I still have a roll or two in the shop for repair on really old grungy copper. I remember my Dad had some 40/60 for fixing old lead stuff.0 -
Heay Mad Dog we call them snots gooey snots lol nm
0 -
A word of caution about 50-50...
If you ever get the chance, take an old joint that was done with 50-50 and has been exposed to 180 degree F water for a long period of time, and grab the joint and give it a twist. You will be SHOCKED at how easy it comes apart.
Now, try the same thing with a joint that has been soldered with 96/4 or 95/5 or anything other than 50/50 and you won't ever use 50/50 for anything other than emergency joint doctoring again...
You've can trust me on this, or my names not Orville Reddenbocker. Wait a minute, I'm NOT Orville Reddenbocker, but you CAN trust me on that point. Try it yourself and see.
As for beautiful joints, if you follow the CDA recomendations and get rid of the excess flux that runs down the outside of the pipe, you won't have to deal with snotty, boogery, ballsy, ugly soldering jobs, regardless of the type of solder you choose.
I ALWAYS carry a cotton cloth with me for removing excess flux after heat up.
ME0 -
50/50 solder joints
Hi Mark, just wanted to know what you considered 'a long period of time'? I've seen 50/50 joints that I'm sure have exceeded the existance of 95/5, and in a working environment that well exceeds the heating seasons of the lower 48. Never any leaks when the joints were properly prepared, even with glycol systems which we run alot of @-40F. What problems do you think may occur to copper materials when joints are 'over-heated' when applications of 95/5 are being performed? We take the issue in our business not as one where one solder may be better than another, but from the standpoint that 'our people don't need to be breathing burnt lead, period'.0 -
The problems I've seen...
with 50/50 are usually at the end of a long run, and there is a fur growing at the face of the joint. This is due to the microfractures of the joint allowing fluid to seep out and evaporate. This does not usually manifest itself immediatley, but shows over a period of time (30 years).
As for burnt joints, the difference in solder melt temperatures for 50/50 versus 95/5 or any other hard solders is not as much as people would have you believe. It has to do with watching the joint/flux go through the phases of paste to liquidus to dry. As soon as it hits dry, it is ready for solder. Many people let it get WAY too hot, and yes there are some toxic fumes released, but there are toxic fumes released with 50/50 too. Keep the flame moving. Don't let it concentrate on one spot for too long. THAT is what causes fried joints.
I'm not saying that you can't use 50/50 solder, obviously you can. I'm saying that for the time and money, I'd rather use one of the hard solders due to its inherent strength, and long term reliability.
Lead solder wasn't banned from potable water due to the actions of licensed professional plumbers. It was banned because of the DIYer that thought, "if a little does a little good, then a LOT will do a LOT of good", and proceeded to line the inside of the elbow with 50/50. The water continually erroded the lead away, keeping it in suspension in the drinking water.
When they check a system installed by a licensed professional, the PPM came in well below acceptable limits.
Do as you please, just make sure you please as you do...
ME0 -
50/50
Maybe I wasn't understood in my comment Mark. Yes, it is wrong to expose workers to any toxic fumes regularly. BUT! We live in a litiguous (lawsuit happy society) and if you're going to burn lead in a customers home, who and their family members may be weak in health, and or have a lawyer as a friend or family, YOU'RE SCREWED! Right?0 -
Not sure I get your point Joe...
if you're not using lead, you're not burning lead, right?
ME0 -
my favourite -
is 95/5 - for everything pressure related. 50/50 for drainage. But if you ever get a chance to try 63/37 - give it a go. You can work it like 50/50 - but it's stronger than 95/5. Also carry a mixed bag of silver based solders as well for those joints that need to be absolutely permanment. Look in the Brownells catolaogue for a good selection of silver based products.0 -
I love lead so much that
I still wipe joints on lead water lines. I do all my drains in XXH CI soil pipe w/ lead and oakum joints.lead shower pans, lead closet bends.Lead,lead,lead, everywhere lead. Course I don't do to much work here in the home. But anyway...Carry on.0 -
Me thinks you've ingested too much lead......
dead head...LEAD RULES!!!!!! You just cant eat it man!!!!! Mad Dog
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 52 Biomass
- 420 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 80 Chimneys & Flues
- 1.9K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.3K Gas Heating
- 96 Geothermal
- 154 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.3K Oil Heating
- 60 Pipe Deterioration
- 891 Plumbing
- 5.9K Radiant Heating
- 378 Solar
- 14.7K Strictly Steam
- 3.2K Thermostats and Controls
- 52 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements