TACO Pressure Reducing Valves

Glenn Harrison

1.The "L" shaped thing is a handle that when pulled up on will open the valve and flush it out. It is O.K. to move this around to reseat the valve and stop it from leaking. It's amazing that you got it to stop, as once a Relief valve starts to drip, it won't stop and will need replacement. If this is the relief valve, it is set to release water when the system gets above 30 p.s.i., so check your boiler pressure, if it is above 20 p.s.i. when the boiler is hot, then you most likely need your expansion tank serviced. Normal cold boiler pressure for a two story houseis 12 p.s.i. by the way. If it leaked once it probably will leak again and should be replaced, in my opinion.

2. You will have to drain the boiler at a minimum to replace this valve. If there is no valves in the main supply/return lines coming out of the boiler, then you will have to drain the entire system. As far as contracts go, I know our contract would cover this valve, but contracts do vary.

3. Most likely the "thingy" piggy backed to the leaking valve is the pressure reducing fill valve. This is the valve that reduces the city water pressure to 12 p.s.i. and allows water into the boiler when the pressure drops below 12p.s.i.

If you can, please post a picture of this valve so that I can confirm my diagnosis.

Glenn Harrison, Residential Service Technician

Althoff Industries Inc.

Mechanical and Electrical Services

Crystal Lake, Illinois

<a href="http://www.althoffind.com" target="_blank">Althoff Industries Website</a>

anthony_7

Pressure Reducing Valves

I noticed this morning that my pressure reducing valve was dripping (hot water) from the bottom threading this AM. I was spinning the L shaped piece on top to either close or adjust something inside. It seems to have fixed the dripping.

3 questions.

1. Is that the right thing to do and what did I do. Is this a sign of failure for the valve.

2. In order to replace to I have to drain down system to replace as I can't see no other way. Would this be covered by a major heating contract?

3. What is the item that is piggy backed on it It is the fast fill, then the PRV and then the boiler. It looks just like the valve but has a slide on it saying fast fill (I believe).


Thanks again

anthony_7

MY PIC AND ISSUE

I noticed lately that the pressure has been above normal. In any case I just drained my expansion tank. HERE IS MY PIC and its the 334T from TACO.

Glenn Harrison

Yup, my guess was right

In your picture, the valve on the right is the pressure RELIEF valve, set to relieve at 30 p.s.i., and the valve on the left is your pressure reducing fill valve, which will keep the system set at 12 p.s.i. The lever on the left valve is a manual overide to "fast fill" the boiler when refilling after a drain down. The unit was sold as a set. You would have to check with a distributor to see what is available to replace it with. I would definatly replace that relief as it look like the seal between the castings has leaked.

Glenn Harrison, Residential Service Technician

Althoff Industries Inc.

Mechanical and Electrical Services

Crystal Lake, Illinois

Althoff Industries Website

anthony_7

Thats why my pressure in boiler keeps jumping past 20PSI?

Ever since the leak it seems that my boiler is going above 20 psi and then the valve starts leaking? I drained the expansion tank and it didn't seem to help!!

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

While you are replacing

the pressure reducing valve (PRV), it's a good idea to install valves before and after the PRV so that if it ever needs servicing, you can turn off both valves to isolate it without draining the whole system.

This is a picture of one of our boiler boards. It's hard to pick out because there is so much going on, but if you look at the left side of the picture you can see the bronze colored PRV. Just to the left and over to the right are yellow-handled ball valves that isolate the PRV and backflow preventer.

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Mike Kusiak

When you drain the tank, make sure you get all the water out and let air in. Connecting it to a hose and just letting it drain until the pressure is released is not enough. Make sure the valve in the line to the tank is shut off. You can hang a 5 Gal. pail under the tank drain valve and let it drain. You will hear the valve "glug" as air flows in to replace the water. Let it train until completely dry. Some tank drain valves have a screw which when removed will let air enter while the water drains. Remember to open the in line valve when you are done.

anthony_7

My Tank

Is original with the boiler and is like a mini 5 or 10 gal drum that is suspended in the ceiling joists. There is a valve to the supply feed and a drain valve. Do you mean close the supply valve and open the drain valve and just let it completely empty out?

Mike Kusiak

There should be a shutoff valve in the pipe that goes to the expansion tank. Close this valve to isolate the tank from the rest of the system and then open the drain valve.

Glenn Harrison

And if after you completely drain the expansion tank,

you still have a problem with the pressure building, you will need to replace both of the valves, as the pressure reducing fill valve is not shutting off the water pressure at 12 p.s.i.

Glenn Harrison, Residential Service Technician

Althoff Industries Inc.

Mechanical and Electrical Services

Crystal Lake, Illinois

Althoff Industries Website

Tom M.

Most tanks

in my area have a stop + waste valve in the line from the system. I put a washing machine hose down to two buckets on the floor and open the waste port on the valve to let air in. Only open this port after the pressure has dropped at the tank and water is no longer flowing into the bucket. Swap the hose back and forth as you alternately empty and fill the buckets.The hose extends the exit point below the level of the waste port creating a siphon.

heatboy

That is beautiful, Alan!

I love the common return to the mixing valves. Laid out very efficiently and compactly. Why the thermostatic three way and the ESBE? What control is that for the ESBE? I love your guys soldering ability. Just beautiful.

hb

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Rob_6

PSI

My relief valve opened in the middle of the night and caused a flood,service man came the next day and replaced both the relief valve, pressure valve and the expansion tank.Two nights later it happened again,they came the next day and replaced all three parts again. He said keep an eye on the pressure gauge it should operate between 12 -17 psi.Two days later the pressure is 21-24 psi so I called for service. A different guy came and said these old boilers operate between 12-28 psi. The boiler is oil fired w/baseboard and also supplies hot water through a coil,its about 53 years old and I plan on replacing it this summer.What could the problem be and did the tech give me the correct info.Would running out of oil contributed to this problem?

Mike Kusiak

Sounds like you might have a leak in the hot water heating coil in the boiler. This would allow water to enter the boiler at full pressure, causing the boiler pressure to rise.

Tom M.

sounds like

it could be leaking in through the hot water coil. You should have it pressure tested. If you turn the valve off in the boiler supply line and the pressure continues to rise, that's a pretty good indication.This would be unrelated to running out of oil but if the same company let you run out that does the service, you might want to look elsewhere for service.

Rob_6

psi

Could what he told me be true (12-28 psi is normal for an old boiler). Can I relieve the pressure myself? Would the pressure rise slowly (a couple of days)if the coil was the problem.
Thanks,

Mike Kusiak

I dont think that 28 PSI would be normal,since the relief valve could start opening at this pressure. It depends on the temperature of the water in the system. When cold, pressure should be no higher than 12-15 PSI. It could rise into the low 20's when the water in the system is hot. Since you have had the pressure reducing valve, relief valve and tank changed, I would assume these are OK. If the hot water coil had a slow leak, it could cause the pressure to rise slowly over a few days until it reached 30 PSI when the relief valve would start leaking.

[Deleted User]

What kind...

of pop is that in the can?:-)

Nice board Dude. See you in Califo in May?? Maybe we can get you to put another Wallies dinner party together.

You do SUCH a great job, with restaurants AND boards.

ME

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

I am blessed

to have these guys working for me; they come from Nicaragua and are mechanical by nature; they soak this stuff up.

Anyway, the 3-way thermostatic valve is for slab heating and the ESBE mixing valve is for staple-up with plates. We later mounted a motor on the mixing valve; I thinks it, too is made by ESBE. I wanted the staple-up on reset to reduce expansion noises.

ME: thanks for not flaming me for the hole in the flux can :>) Yeah, I'm planning on being in Sacramento at the next Expo and I'll try to pick a better restaurant than the one in Cincinnati; that was pretty bad.

All the best,

Alan

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Bruce Good_2

Could this be a bladder tank, and bleeding the schraeder valve won't work?