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warmboard

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radiant
radiant Member Posts: 20
You should try the Dry panel by Rehau. No need to have to work with the framer and you can design and install your own layout. Easy to skip under cabinets or wherever you do not want to heat. The thickness of the aluminum is perfect for great heat transfer, quick response and very low water temperatures.

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  • Noront
    Noront Member Posts: 7
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    warmboard

    im going to be building a house this spring and am going to heat with radiant. the guy who did heatloss said the winters are to cold ,its been -20 for a month for a staple up system. theres going to be 3000 sq ft living space on bsmnt and main floor and heatload is 57770btu.he recomends a overpour on main flr but i think ill go with warmboard. has anybody had any experience with it. what do you do for the areas where you dont need heat like under the cupboards or under the fridge. any thoughts would be helpful
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,656
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    Warmboard

    Warmboard works great for structural applications where a Gyp overpour makes fin. floor heights too high or the weight is a problem. Filler panels are used under cupboards or cabinets. Using Warmboard requires coordination between the heating contractor and the GC, who usually installs the Warmboard panels.

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  • heatboy
    heatboy Member Posts: 1,468
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    O.C. Spacing.

    Paul,

    I'm not very familiar with Warmboard. Are there different centers available or is it all 12"? Seems like a very limiting product since a majority of spacing is less than 12".

    hb

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    heatboy



    The Radiant Whisperer





    "The laws of physics will outweigh the laws of ecomomics every time."
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,144
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    WB

    I have done two new homes 4400 and 2100 square feet and a couple small additions.

    As with any job a heat loss and design will indicate the BTU/ foot required and the spacing requirements. The two homes I did had a design that looked a lot like the Wirsbo program, to me. I think the engineeres at Monterey Energy Group did the calcs.

    The new board is much improved from the original. A seven layer plywood is used instead of the original pressed material. Filler material should be available locally, now. The first version had a unique tapered T&G profile. It did assemble easily, however.

    There is a bit of a learning curve, and the framers need to be "on board" with the installation. I worked with the framers on the two homes to help with the layout, and the "newness factor" which freaks some "set in their way" framers :)

    All my jobs are working well. A nice product to floor on top of, as the tubes a visable. Nice to have a continuous aluminum layer under the entire floor covering for great heat transfer.

    The floor coverings were bamboo, cork and tile on one, and tile, hardwood and some carpet on the larger job.

    It works best if the interior wall layout doesn't change from the original design :) If walls get moved, plan on some serious router time.

    I have some installation tips and ideas to share if you go the WB route.

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Donny
    Donny Member Posts: 37
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    another opinion

    get a quote from a local contractor familiar with warmboard before committing to a design. Personaly I like to do a lightweight concrete floor, you don't have to worry about it getting wet as with Gyp and it's extra 1-1/2" height is easy to factor in on a new build, as for under cabinet spaces, we tube them all, it makes for a more evenly heated home.
  • [Deleted User]
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    Another opposing opinion on this opinion...

    The last job I had that had a water leak with gypcrete turned the gypcrete back into the mush it was when it was poured... Hardly something to be ignored.

    Lightweight concrete is guaranteed to crack. Sometimes in the areas where you don't want it too, even with the proper use of expansion/crack control joints.

    The concrete contrators call it "character". The lady of the house calls is a CHILD trap.

    We took a piece of Warmboards S board and left it outside in the weather for about thirty days, and I have to tell you, it holds up a LOT better than I'd have thought it would have. I still recommend to the customer that they completely seal the wood with a skim coat of GE Silicone in areas where you KNOW it's going to get wet (bathrooms, in front of kitchen sinks etc..)

    As for running heat below cabinets, I'd be willing to bet that if you went back to the customers with heat under their cabinets and asked them about how well the potatoes and onions grew in the bottoms of their cabinets, they'd tell you they'd rather you didn't put heat below the cabinets. (Been there, done that, was asked NOT to do it again...)

    As for warm board and running cabinets above the heated floor, you can do as HR says and avoid it, or you can insulate the kick space below the cabinet to avoid unnecessary heat gain.

    As for refrigerators, obviously avoid those areas with tubing.

    JMHO

    ME
  • [Deleted User]
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    Sorry

    if I came across too harshly. I just hate to see people make the same mistakes I've made. Live and learn.

    ME
  • Mark A. Custis
    Mark A. Custis Member Posts: 247
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    I give you a clean slate

    I get to convert the attached garage into a family/living room. If The Stephanie gets her fireplace and cooling, I can heat the space anyway I want. Four steps down to grade on the super cracked undermined by water from house grade.

    I am not getting any younger so steps down may become an issue. I had thought to bust up the slab, let it fall, vapor barier, slag, frame to house grade in wood or wood imitation.

    I got to heat with the floor.

    Gypcreate? This product? Roth's new stuff? Fast Trac? Light (seems to me to be an oxymoraon) concrete?

    Finished floor thoughout balance of home is real 3/4" t&g red oak, matching would be nice.

    This is it guys beat me for all the knowledge I been given by this site.

    Mark

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  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,144
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    Thermal mass

    can work against you at times. In my area we get frequent and wide temperature swings. Two weekends ago it was 68 F and we were motorcycling. That Monday it dropped into the teens! slabs and 1-1/2 thin pours need timmmmme to ramp up and down.

    The more I install it, the more I like low mass, fast responders. I consider WB, heat transfer plates, and all the "on top" products as dry, low mass products. Walls and ceilings are other areas to consider for dry systems.

    I have had similar experiences, as ME with gyp products getting wet. Ugly and hard to patch. In my own home, in Utah, as luck would have it :) Also many flooring products (tile) do not accept gyp as an acceptable backer.

    As always your climate, and expectations will help decide what's right for you. I'm not certain there is a "perfect 10" application. Pros and cons to all of them.

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Mark A. Custis
    Mark A. Custis Member Posts: 247
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    Your jack hammer is too

    far a way to bum. I heard about biking, boy OK?

    Thanks for the input. I think low mass may be my answer, cause The Stephanie will want the same throughout, AL plates here I come.

    Thanks, I'll keep you updated.

    Mark

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  • Noront
    Noront Member Posts: 7
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    what is the cost of the dry panel compared to warmboard and could i get it in canada.
  • Noront
    Noront Member Posts: 7
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    hotrod i will definitly take you up on that offer if i go the warmboard route. have to get the price figured out for this and see if i can afford it but imsure i want floor heat and this looks like about the best way to go.
  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
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    Rehau

    Who do you use to get panels from? I have tried API in New Hampshire and so far they have not responded, do you also use their tubing? Any info would be helpful.
  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
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    Rehau Dry Panel

    Who do you use as a supplier for the panels? I have tried API in New Hampshire and they have not responded. Do you also use Rehau tubing? Any info would be helpful. Thanks, Ernie.
  • radiant
    radiant Member Posts: 20
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    I do not know the cost of warmboard I never quoted it the product never made sense to me. I do not know if it is available in Canada yet,but if it is not I am sure it will be soon. call Rehau in Leesburg VA.
  • radiant
    radiant Member Posts: 20
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    Ernie, I purchase from API and find them to be very responsive if you have trouble call Manchester and ask for Bob Jr. . Yes I use Rehau and i have switched to the product line exclusively.
  • Colin
    Colin Member Posts: 50
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    Radiant, How is the...........

    sound transmission with the dry panel? It would seem to me that it would give a hollow, tinney, metalic sound when one walked across the floor compared to the solid-ness of warmboard. Not critical just curios.
    Colin
  • radiant
    radiant Member Posts: 20
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    colin, the panels are a heavy gauge aluminum and has a very solid feeling and sound to it when down. I guarantee after you try it you will install nothing else from the ease of the install to the performance it is the best radiant floor available
  • steve_6
    steve_6 Member Posts: 243
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    why

    is your posting so wide??
This discussion has been closed.