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System on its last legs?
Alex_2
Member Posts: 4
I own a home with an older one-pipe steam system that I'm not quite ready to replace:
ARCO Ideal series 3M Size S-2205 with asbestos "snowman"
[originally coal fuel since 1896, but oil since 1938?]
Sloan Interburner oil burner with new ignitor this year.
Sundstrand fuel unit A2VA-7416
LWCO: McDonnel No.67
Honeywell PA404 Pressuretrol
Oil tank that is "far from code" according to my steam guy.
+ Ever-hot tankless water heater on a hot water zone
Current issues:
1. While flushing the LWCO lately, I noticed that it's getting slower. I haven't taken the time to test it (drain to low water) for the past couple weeks because it's been kind of chilly here in MA. I used to get a pour of water, and it's slowed to five or so fast trickles. I just ran it until it was (mostly) clear and topped up, but I'm not sure it's really flushed.
2. When the ignitor died last month, the guy who missed his dinner to fix it was nice enough to assess the burner. It seems the ring is pulling away a little, and the ignitor spark contacts are on their closest setting and very corroded. (I guess this old-school equipment only lasts for ONE lifetime...)
3. Many of my air valves stuck this year. Last year they were fine, and I cleaned a few at the beginning of the season. But I'm worried that this is a symptom of something else, in addition to aggravating the mineral content of the boiler water due to some steam loss. (I topped up the sight glass from 1/3 to the normal 2/3 about once each month since it got so COLD. This includes my flushes each week.)
I want to keep this thing going at least until spring, and possibly for a few more seasons. Maybe I feel some kinship with the old system. (My grampa is one of Dan's "Dead Men" who maintained a whole convent's steam plant for decades. Wish he were here now.) Or maybe I just haven't decided what to replace it with.
Any comments?
Alex Nauda
Melrose, MA
ARCO Ideal series 3M Size S-2205 with asbestos "snowman"
[originally coal fuel since 1896, but oil since 1938?]
Sloan Interburner oil burner with new ignitor this year.
Sundstrand fuel unit A2VA-7416
LWCO: McDonnel No.67
Honeywell PA404 Pressuretrol
Oil tank that is "far from code" according to my steam guy.
+ Ever-hot tankless water heater on a hot water zone
Current issues:
1. While flushing the LWCO lately, I noticed that it's getting slower. I haven't taken the time to test it (drain to low water) for the past couple weeks because it's been kind of chilly here in MA. I used to get a pour of water, and it's slowed to five or so fast trickles. I just ran it until it was (mostly) clear and topped up, but I'm not sure it's really flushed.
2. When the ignitor died last month, the guy who missed his dinner to fix it was nice enough to assess the burner. It seems the ring is pulling away a little, and the ignitor spark contacts are on their closest setting and very corroded. (I guess this old-school equipment only lasts for ONE lifetime...)
3. Many of my air valves stuck this year. Last year they were fine, and I cleaned a few at the beginning of the season. But I'm worried that this is a symptom of something else, in addition to aggravating the mineral content of the boiler water due to some steam loss. (I topped up the sight glass from 1/3 to the normal 2/3 about once each month since it got so COLD. This includes my flushes each week.)
I want to keep this thing going at least until spring, and possibly for a few more seasons. Maybe I feel some kinship with the old system. (My grampa is one of Dan's "Dead Men" who maintained a whole convent's steam plant for decades. Wish he were here now.) Or maybe I just haven't decided what to replace it with.
Any comments?
Alex Nauda
Melrose, MA
0
Comments
-
Alex, you need a new boiler
and some air vents. This will cut your fuel bills and make the heat come up faster.
The "snowman" boilers are probably no better than 40% efficient on oil or gas. You can double your efficiency just by replacing that boiler.
Massachusetts is loaded with good steam men- go to the Find a Contractor page of this site to locate one.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Thanks.
Well, that's what I was expecting. Thanks for the advice. I'm still going to try to milk it until spring.
What kind of place can I find good air valves? Home Depot has cheap annoying ones that don't adjust. Some of the old ones in this house are really solid, and I want to replace them with equally solid examples. Plumbing supply store? Or get them from a contractor?0 -
Efficiency
By the way, I have a bunch of maintenance records in the cellar that list results from efficiency tests. Over the last couple years, it's been around 80%. Is that testing something else, or is this old thing not so bad?
If it's 80% now, I have to factor in that I'll only be saving a few hundred a year on oil with a new boiler.0 -
Alex, don't let the efficiency
records fool you. these are for the BURNER and not the system. As Steamhead said a snowman may only be 40%. I have changed allot of these systems around the brockton area over the years. you could save a lot of fuel with a new system. I would wait 'til spring and change it out along with new main and raditor vents Hope this helps John@Reliable0 -
John's right, Alex
I should have clarified that. A burner can be running at 80% efficiency, but if the boiler cannot capture the heat and transfer it to the water effectively, its overall efficiency will be low. That's the trouble with Snowman boilers. There isn't much heat-transfer surface in them.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
> Well, that's what I was expecting. Thanks for
> the advice. I'm still going to try to milk it
> until spring.
>
> What kind of place can I find
> good air valves? Home Depot has cheap annoying
> ones that don't adjust. Some of the old ones in
> this house are really solid, and I want to
> replace them with equally solid examples.
> Plumbing supply store? Or get them from a
> contractor?
You can get steam vents at Avon Supply on Foundry St. in Wakefield.0 -
Alex, my local home depot has the adjustable vents. Theyre cheap enough (around $5) so that you can buy a bunch and expirement with them around the house. Try a different HD or Lowes or maybe even look on their website.0 -
HD adjustable vents
These are junk and I pull off and trash a dozen or so a week. Find a Vari-vent and you will be much better off.0
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