Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Backflow Preventers
Heatermon
Member Posts: 119
We have done backflow certifications since 1988 and are currently doing about 1,000 tests per year. We mostly use a "modified" differential pressure gauge (Barton model 226). We still have 1 Midwest #830, have experiences with Duke's 100 & EZ900 and Watts TDK's. I can say, without a doubt, the Barton is the best choice for someone doing alot of test under varying conditions. It's small and lite, has an easy to read dial and works well in the worst conditions (WET). The Midwest gauges tend to "stick" - we even had a calibration certificate read "must tap side of gauge to obtain accurate reading". With digital gauges, you are at the mercy of the batteries (they always go dead at the worst times) and other things that go bad when "digital" comes into contact with "liquid" (transisters and diodes).
As far as pricing, I can remember my first teacher saying "The test proceedures are the same whether its a 1 inch valve or a 10 inch valve - so the price for testing should be the same - about 20 dollars." This is the only STUPID thing that I can remember him saying. Experience has taught us that there are many factors to consider before quoting prices for test certifications. These factors include:
1. Size of device. (Yes size matters. You will know what I mean the first time you try to turn off a 12" gate valve.
2. Type of device (There are differences between testing a double check and an R.P.)
3. Location of device. (Worst one: Suspended 20 foot off the floor over the oven in a powder coating shop. Best one: Behind the jukebox at the nudie bar.)
4. Requirements of the certifying agency. (One water districts requires us to get a water pressure reading from the nearest fire hydrant - another makes us read the water meter while we're there. Years ago, in Rancho Santa Fe, we were required to make arrangements with the water district to meet us at the loacation and have them watch us test the backflow.)
5. Requirements of the customer. (Some don't want their water interruptedneed and request after hours testing. Some are deadbeats, don't pay and then try to get somebody else on the "approved tester list" the next year. Then there's the good ones that will pay us before we even do the test.)
Most people in my area charge a set fee to certify a backflow device. If it fails, some charge to "open it up and have a look", while some include this "inspection". Some people will charge for the repair and then charge again for the re-test, while some will include re-testing with the repair. We have several price levels - from $30 (44 tests that are local, pre-paid and can be done anytime) to $250 (A 12 inch R.P. that can only be tested Saturday night at 2 in the morning). As always, the price YOU charge depends on what it costs YOU to do business, plus what YOU want to make. We make "good money" on backflow testing, but only because we have invested the time to study both the products and the market, developed a system that makes the process easier, and have implemented this system into our business so our cutomers can see its value. Hopefully you can do the same.
Good luck and happy testing,
Heatermon.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=147&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
As far as pricing, I can remember my first teacher saying "The test proceedures are the same whether its a 1 inch valve or a 10 inch valve - so the price for testing should be the same - about 20 dollars." This is the only STUPID thing that I can remember him saying. Experience has taught us that there are many factors to consider before quoting prices for test certifications. These factors include:
1. Size of device. (Yes size matters. You will know what I mean the first time you try to turn off a 12" gate valve.
2. Type of device (There are differences between testing a double check and an R.P.)
3. Location of device. (Worst one: Suspended 20 foot off the floor over the oven in a powder coating shop. Best one: Behind the jukebox at the nudie bar.)
4. Requirements of the certifying agency. (One water districts requires us to get a water pressure reading from the nearest fire hydrant - another makes us read the water meter while we're there. Years ago, in Rancho Santa Fe, we were required to make arrangements with the water district to meet us at the loacation and have them watch us test the backflow.)
5. Requirements of the customer. (Some don't want their water interruptedneed and request after hours testing. Some are deadbeats, don't pay and then try to get somebody else on the "approved tester list" the next year. Then there's the good ones that will pay us before we even do the test.)
Most people in my area charge a set fee to certify a backflow device. If it fails, some charge to "open it up and have a look", while some include this "inspection". Some people will charge for the repair and then charge again for the re-test, while some will include re-testing with the repair. We have several price levels - from $30 (44 tests that are local, pre-paid and can be done anytime) to $250 (A 12 inch R.P. that can only be tested Saturday night at 2 in the morning). As always, the price YOU charge depends on what it costs YOU to do business, plus what YOU want to make. We make "good money" on backflow testing, but only because we have invested the time to study both the products and the market, developed a system that makes the process easier, and have implemented this system into our business so our cutomers can see its value. Hopefully you can do the same.
Good luck and happy testing,
Heatermon.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=147&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
0
Comments
-
Backflow preventer
Recently investigating the certification process involved in becoming "state certified" to check backflow preventers. I am wondering if anyone has this experience already, what is a good rate to charge? Does it go by call, or by call and pipe size? What piece of test equipment do you use, Digital, analog?
Please any help will be appreciated.
thanks
jim0 -
Confined space
Must be certified for confined space entry and, in some cases, testing for percentages of O2 along with other gases. Suit up with a harness, tripod and pulley system. A bunch of men drowned (including several of the water co inspectors) when an 8" RPZ cut lose in a confined space. No one made it out alive. Watch out for CO if there's a car or truck anywhere near by thats running.
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
WOW
Sometimes I forget how dangerous those can be. Once saw the aftermath of an 8" RPZ dump in a "box". The two steel doors that me and an assistant could BARELY lift open were blown open by the rush of water. This is why our local officials are eliminating these "underground death traps" from our systems. We don't have to worry about snow, so above ground meters and backflows are sprouting up everywhere.
Happy (and safe) testing to you all.
Heatermon
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0 -
RPZ
After spending 5 years in the meter shop of the Erie
County Water Authority here in NY, heres a few tips on RPZ
testing. The water company or authority by law has to
maintain records and enforcement of RPZ's. We would shut people off for failure to comply with testing or use. We are very agressive here about complaince, so we have guys who use that as a main part of their advertising. One other thing, check with your water district about operating a fire hydrant. We dont allow it without written permission. Especially in this weather, not all of the hydrants drain down therefore they need to be pumped down. We can't have any frozen hydrants when theres a fire! Thats why we want to know. If you want to use a hydrant you can, but WE will install a hydrant meter with RPZ on the hydrant you want to use.
The average cost for a RPZ test around here is 100.00 and theres no shortage of them.
Water pressure is somthing to respect. I have been floated
out of a meter pit a couple of times and it a scarey feeling. A 8 or 10 in dresser coupling blows and look out!
I had a old timer tell me once that a 4" main at 100psi
will flush you and your car down the street, and after working with these big pipes I beleive him. Work Safe!
Louie0 -
RPZ below flood level a no-no
I have been selling and servicing RPZ's since 1975. Anyone (or any authority) that allows one to be installed without sufficient gravity drain to maintain an air gap under the relief should be considered negligent. The whole purpose is to prevent backflow or back siphonage of unsafe water. And that cannot be assured if the relief can become flooded, which could allow surface water to be siphoned into the unit.
But unless the water main broke, it is hard to imagine anyone drowning from relief discharge or did not think to close the gate valves. On the other hand, my boss took an 8' 2x4 out of one valve using a keyhole saw to cut it in pieces. So it is possible that whatever blocked the check valve was also blocking the gate valve. And I have pulled sticks and rocks the size of bricks out of valves.0 -
I was talking about me being in a meter pit, not where
the RPZ was. Of course it has to be above flood level with
a drain. I just wanted to give a example of the power of
water. I was also talking about fire hydrants not draining
down! Operating a hydrant in high pressure areas 80psi+ also must be done with care. Shutting one off too fast could blow a main down the street depending on the age of the pipes and demand at that time. Louie0 -
Backflow preventers
Some of you stated $20 to check a backflow preventer. Is that alone, or added to the service call fee because you are already there? I'm still trying to figure if its profitable. THere is only one add in my local book listing this service. I cannot believe it only costs a biz or landlord $20 to have it checked.
jim0 -
Cert fees will vary ...
just like the businesses that perform them. A lot of backflow certifiers in our area are "weekend workers". They have a regular weekday job or are "retired" and do testing for "extra" money. They also have no contractors license or insurance (not required to test) but have all the other required certifications. These issue have been talked about alot over the years, but no significant solutions have been offered. A few years ago a tester "won" the city's contract for certifying all the city owned devices throughout the city (parks, ballfields and buildings). His "winning" bid was 12.50 per test - I kid you not - about 100 tests total. Well, let me tell you, he is not testing backflows anymore in this area. I don't think he knew what he was getting into and underestimated the time and cost to do this properly (by the way, the reason the city put this work out for bid even though they have certified testers on staff, their cost to test 1 backflow with city personel was estimated at 60 dollars. They knew they could get it done cheaper with "competitive bidding").
Right now, I know a company that charges 30 for a test of a 2.0" RP valve and one that will charge 125 for the same test. We are somewhere in between. I don't know what their costs of doing business are, but I know both take care of their customers (it's a small, well known industry here) and do many tests here. The secret to a profitable testing business is to know your costs and charge accordingly - no matter what they are. Hope this helps you in your business.
By the way another good "secret" for those of you in this business. These tests are done on a yearly basis (at a minimum). You need to record and anticipate when they come due again (just like your dentist does with you). You should already schedule "next year's appointment" with them before you finish this year's (we even give them a discount for next year's test). Then you need to set up your appointments so that they are all together or reasonably close. By doing that, you can greatly cut down the time it takes to do 1 test. There are times when we can charge 40 per test and make 400 per hour (have 10 customers, right next to each other down the street that have already pre-scheduled the test). Otherwise for the ones that have to be done individually, it's up to you to decide what to charge them for getting in your vehicle, driving over, meeting with them, performing the test, and doing the paperwork. We charge 90 - if it makes any difference to you. I can tell you though, because of years of "pre-scheduling" we do alot more "multiple" tests than individual ones. The next "secret" to learn is the one about "repairs".
Good luck with your business.
Heatermon
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements